The new (OEM) lines I have for the OMP are painted Yellow and White. The Mazda manual says white is for the front housing and yellow for the rear. Does it matter how they are connected to the OMP?

 

Yes

 

Why would it matter, other than that's how they were designed to go on?
Is oil injection pulsed like fuel?

(I ask because I assume I will need to make/buy new lines at some point.)

 

Injection timing? I'm guessing lol you shouldn't be using thr omp anyway. Premixing or an independent reservoir is a better option

 

I premix a little, but I don’t want to mess with what I’d working fine..

 

Its not though and we as a community need to break away from that mentality. Successful omp operation can only be determined on engine tear down and inspection.

Our forefathers have done the testing and have shown the stock omp as being a good solution for mass production in a stock car but it has its short falls for TODAYS ownership group. Siphoning dirty oil from the oil pan and dribbling it into the housing on a very small section of the rotor/apex seal is in no way adequate... especially for an engine being asked to do more stock.

the oil metering system is not sufficient for TODAYS owners. We can all do better and with the knowledge and information available in the community, it's very easy to use data to determine the omp is not good.

 

If we're talking about the oil lines from the pump to the injectors they are shaped so that one naturally installs in the lower OMP hole and one on the upper. You'd have to do something really wrong for it not to be apparent which goes where.


The unfortunate reality is that some FD owners are stuck in dictatorships (read: California) where disabling your OMP is more difficult than just removing the mechanical components. I believe cars stuck on stock ECUs need a functioning OMP or it will throw the car into limp mode.

 

yes. you are correct. stock ecu requires it. an all stock FD on a power fc can see great benefits though. the ability to lower the fan temps to a reasonable point alone is enough justification enough for me. they are cheap enough where you could impulse buy one and not worry about it. it makes deleting the omp more palatable. with the resources available today, getting it tuned is no big deal either. for under $1000 you could put your all stock fd on a power fc, have it run better and cooler while being able to delete the omp and go simplified sequential (or non sequential) with no fuss. its one of the best upgrades

 

i've been thinking of making an OMP test rig, it would/could be pretty simple. you could measure the actual output too
the one on my car is a little slow, and i've got a pile of them (seven?) and i don't feel like doing all the work to just try each one on the car, lol

 

My question was concerning the connections at the pump itself. I've determined it doesn't matter. Although the pump does output to one side then the other (pulses) it doesn't mater what side you connect to what port. The pump output is "metered" by RPM, not by what which rotor its feeding. What Jestuur said above might be true if you are using stock lines, it might not if you made up your own. Anyone disagree? Just asking, I not an expert.

 

No strong opinions, for the sake of completeness I'll add that the rear rotor for stock lines is the bottom port on the OMP, the front rotor is the top port on the OMP.

 

Sold! Nice diagram. Works for me. Thanks!