Since oil is the life blood of our cars I thought I would share this write up on oil filters I found.

http://www.angelfire.com/indie/truck/oilfilterstudy.htm

So the next time you think about buying Fram... think again.

Jonesie

 

Well, the Fram Tough Gaurd doesn't seem to fair too poorly, if anything, it's a pretty decent filter.

 

I run the Bosch filters...bummer there's no data on them.

I get them at AutoZone, for anyone that gives a damn.

 

A good write-up on the internal construction of oil filters, but it's lacking the really important info, such as flow characteristics and actual filtering capabilities before/after the element. The author mentions and describes the SAE tests, but that's it (understandable, since they are extremely expensive to conduct).

While I would not use Fram filters after seeing catastrophic failures on motorcycle units (their o-ring seals were so poorly designed that a few burst under high rpm pressure on the racetrack, causing some crashes and a lot of controversy), the author makes a lot of guesses on the many filter's construction without any real testing backup (or even as he admits, any real qualifications to make those guesses).

While the writeup looks impressive, I'd be careful how much you read into the author's conclusions.

 

The fram filters sometimes break internally. After you take out the filter and shake it, it rattles inside. I've notice this three times. And sometimes the anit-drain back valve does not work. The fram filters always leak around the oring. I dont use them on my cars if i have a choice.

 

i guess i will start to use Mobil 1 filters. I dont go cheap when it comes to filters, especially the oil

 

that's for damn sure. $10 for a filter is worth it even for a tightass like me

 

Who makes the Mazda oil filter? That would be real relevant here as most of us (and shops like RP & Gotham) use that filter. Also they have changed the design of the stock oil filter.

The B6Y1 filter does not look as stout and has smaller holes in it that the B6Y2 filter that Ray at Malloy tells me it replaces. I need to take some pics and post. The difference was surprising.

 

My friend and I both use ("used" for me, just traded in the 7 for an 8) fram filters on our FD's, but we don't use the one listed for the rx7. We use one slightly larger. #7317 His FD just crossed the 100000 mile mark on the original motor and turbos, and he's been using the fram for about 4 years.

 

I just swapped out a Fram double guard on the G/F's Miata. On start up with the fram, the lifers would rattle like crazy. Turned out the anti drain back wasn't working. It is the SAME filter we use on the rotary. I will never use a fram filter on my engine since this.

Replaced it with a K&N like I use on my rotary all the time anyway. All is well now.

 

been using mazda OEM filter. no problem here.

 

So I presume that ur using Redline, not mobil 1?

 

I've used the Fram TG3593A and have been happy with it.

Their SAE SPE is rated at 98% and MPE is 99%.

I doubt that there are are any other filters that can touch that.

 

The orange of the Fram filters doesn't work as well with my FD's engine bay as the black Bosch. Alain, you should be all down with that

 

Theres a oil filter that is made in japan, i think its called nippion oil filter. Its very high quality. It uses a round cut o ring and not a square cut o ring. For the honda filters the nippion is almost identical to the oe one. I think you can only get this filter from a parts store that specializes in import parts.

 

Damn all this talk about the frams makes me nervous. Thats what i've used for the past 4 years. The reason, that damn sure grip.

 

I've read alot of those articles and some are just plain stupid as Kento sorta points out. From my research it seems to be #1 Purolator Pure1, #2 Mobil-1, #3 K&N. Although K&N may be #2 since it flows more oil but slightly less filtering. This would be similar to Blitz intake vs Apexi (what's your needs/preference). Oh and since price is also a comparison factor, the Pure one may not be that much in the lead for filtering.

 

FRAM® Tough Guard™ filter protects your engine when operating in such tough conditions as:
Extreme hot or cold
Stop-and-go traffic
Unusually dirty roads
Heavy loads and towing


How Does it Work?
The FRAM® Tough Guard™ oil filter features a number of advanced characteristics including:

1. Screen-over by-pass valve: Provides back-up filtration for the times when the filter might become clogged in extremely dusty or dirty conditions or when oil flows through the by-pass valve during cold start-ups. The screen provides added protection and insurance against larger, problematic particles of dirt until you change your filter!

2. Synthetic glass and cellulose media: The most advanced feature is the filter media which is a combination of synthetic glass and cellulose uniquely formulated for top-rated efficiency for the life of the filter. Tough Guard filter has even more synthetic glass and cellulose than FRAM® Extra Guard® filter for an even greater life and efficiency with an SPE of 98%.

3. Silicone anti-drainback valve: This design allows the filter to retain oil when your vehicle is turned off so your engine benefits from a filter full of oil at startup. Constructed of silicone, the gasket remains flexible and continues to perform even in extreme heat.

4. PTFE-coated exterior gasket: Reduces friction making it easier when removing the filter.

 

My understanding is that Purolator is now making MAZDAs OEM filters - I use the Purolator PureOne #14459 that is listed for s4 T-IIs as it is significantly larger than the oem fd unit.

 

"The reason, that damn sure grip."

Can't get a better grip than the nut pressed into the top of the K&N.

Changing oil every 1500 -2000 miles kinda makes the filtering efficiency moot, doesn't it? For our application, I would think flow is most important, followed by build quality. The K&N uses a metal anti-drain back valve, and also uses the round O-ring bottom (on the sealing surface).

Hell, I would think ability to tolerate gasoline would be important in a filter for our engine, and I have no idea how the others stack up. I do know the Fram failed on a car above (the miata), and startups with the K&N are quiet and smooth now.

Great. Another oil type/premix type/fuel filter loaction argument. Buy what you want if it works for you...

 

Me too as the Pure One has the anti-drainback valve. I use the #14459 too (it shows as the filter for an MX-6 also). I also use the Purolator fuel filters; bought them off the shelf for less than $30 each. Perfect fit.

 

Have been looking for high quality filters all summer here in Edmonton Alberta. Had to settle for "Canadian Tire" brand last week. I notice the oil filters for the rotary have been getting smaller with each generation. When I bought the car (used) it had a huge filter on it. First gen. The second gen. filters at Canadian Tire are fairly long (different than the Mazda filters). The 3rd gen filters they have are tiny - smaller than the Mazda filters. I bought the 1st gen filter. They all have the same base. I presume they all function the same (based on having one on my car when I got it with no problems). Bigger should be better (if it fits). Up to now I've been using the Mazda filters. Pretty blue, but what are they?

 

I blew a fram gasket at summit point road course, in porsche 924 turbo. saw the smoke before I did any damage. While replacing it in the parking lot, couple of guys stopped by and noted similar failures with frams in hondas.

my analysis was that compared to purolator, the fram had more of the gasket thickness outside of the groove in filter end, so more area for pressure to cause blow out. my conclusion was it was critical to get that full turn to seat gasket, more so than with purolator. never bought another fram.

 

Actually, my mech. said that i should only use Valvoline VR1 20-50. Never had any problems with it. I just dont want any debris floating around in my oil, so imma start to use that Mobil 1 filter.

 

Oil filter efficiency in a circulating system like your engine is rated on two key factors: The size of the contaminants you want to remove, and the number of passes through the filter needed to remove these contaminants.

For a single-pass test, an oil sample is intentionally contaminated with glass beads in a known size (very small beads in our case). The oil is then passed through the filter and the level of contamination is measured after filtration. The Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter has a single-pass efficiency of 98 percent for 10- to 20-micron contaminants (same as the Fram TG series oil filter) vs. an average of 85 percent for conventional filters.

The multiple-pass test is similar to the single-pass, except oil is repeatedly passed through the filter. In a circulating system, the oil flows through the filter many times, so multiple-pass filtration is often used as the more important comparison vs. the single-pass result. The contaminant used for multiple-pass testing is a standardized test dust. The Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter has a multiple-pass efficiency of 96 percent vs. an average of 82 percent for conventional oil filters. Fram TG series as a multiple-pass efficiency of 99%

In short, the higher the efficiency for a given contaminant size, the more contaminant material the filter is removing from the liquid. And the Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter does a significantly better job than conventional oil filters.

The oil filter medium acts much like an air filter in your heating or cooling system at home. Contaminants are both adsorbed onto the surface of the filter medium and are physically trapped or blocked by the mat of fibers. Contaminants that are trapped on the first pass may be pushed through the medium as more liquid flows through the filter. In addition, as contaminants are trapped on the medium surface, they can block the path of additional contaminants, increasing the filter efficiency during subsequent passes.

When an automobile engine is first started, the oil pump begins to circulate oil through the oil filter and the rest of the engine. Particularly during cold weather, the oil filter can be subjected to a pressure surge as the oil initially flows through the filter. Repeated pressure impulses can fatigue either the filter medium or the filter housing.

The Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter has been designed to provide exceptional protection against failure both under steady pressure (hydrostatic pressure) and as a result of repetitive pressure impulses. The Mobil 1 filter is designed to withstand five times the normal system operating pressure (steady pressure). And it has outperformed conventional filters three to one when tested under repeated cycles of pressure impulses.