Oil catch can setup on my race car.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,677
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From: sydney
If you want someone to make one, I'd try Alex at Plazmaman, they do aluminium bends and he's an old rotary hand. If you want to retain stock cap, thread is 36x4, I'd suggest a speedflow cap instead for less hassle.
I'd also say cans that store the oil rather than returning it to the engine, if you're doing any serious track work aren't much chop - a couple laps at wtac you were planning, yes, maybe not so critical.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 46
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From: Sydney
I've used a ton of set ups, and there are a couple keys:
1. Enough capacity... I'd go for at least 1qt. if it's a track car on sticky tires that may potentially run with a completely full oil pan.
2. Being able to see how much is in the can
3. A large enough feed line and vent to relieve pressure (-10 is preferred)
4. Easy draining.
That last one is why those GReddy style cans are a pain in the ***. Once it's full you need to take it apart. I went (finally) with a 1qt. Jaz can. It's large enough, has a -10 inlet, is "natural" plastic so you can see how much is in there without taking it apart or any complicated sight tubing, and has a drain petcock, so you can get the stuff out easily. I use their radiator overflow bottle too, to make room for brake ducts.
1. Enough capacity... I'd go for at least 1qt. if it's a track car on sticky tires that may potentially run with a completely full oil pan.
2. Being able to see how much is in the can
3. A large enough feed line and vent to relieve pressure (-10 is preferred)
4. Easy draining.
That last one is why those GReddy style cans are a pain in the ***. Once it's full you need to take it apart. I went (finally) with a 1qt. Jaz can. It's large enough, has a -10 inlet, is "natural" plastic so you can see how much is in there without taking it apart or any complicated sight tubing, and has a drain petcock, so you can get the stuff out easily. I use their radiator overflow bottle too, to make room for brake ducts.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 46
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From: Sydney
That's all the Caine/Uni-group engineering car uses.
If you want someone to make one, I'd try Alex at Plazmaman, they do aluminium bends and he's an old rotary hand. If you want to retain stock cap, thread is 36x4, I'd suggest a speedflow cap instead for less hassle.
I'd also say cans that store the oil rather than returning it to the engine, if you're doing any serious track work aren't much chop - a couple laps at wtac you were planning, yes, maybe not so critical.
If you want someone to make one, I'd try Alex at Plazmaman, they do aluminium bends and he's an old rotary hand. If you want to retain stock cap, thread is 36x4, I'd suggest a speedflow cap instead for less hassle.
I'd also say cans that store the oil rather than returning it to the engine, if you're doing any serious track work aren't much chop - a couple laps at wtac you were planning, yes, maybe not so critical.
Thanks!... this may be the first time anyone ever liked my engine bay.
It's just a single -10 from the filler neck to an unbaffled tank (here's a link to it):
..:: JAZ PRODUCTS ::..
It would be even more effective to get a vent on the other side of the engine... maybe in the future.
I think you'd likely blow the dipstick and puke oil from there—at least on track. It has happened, and judging by how much oil I can get in my catch can, you'd have a real mess.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 14
From: UK
I've seen this question asked a few times in this thread but with no answers yet.
Is there any way that you can do this with the stock twins? One hose from the filler neck and another hose from the other side of the block? With a filter on top of the catch can?
Is there any way that you can do this with the stock twins? One hose from the filler neck and another hose from the other side of the block? With a filter on top of the catch can?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 336
Likes: 14
From: UK
I'm probably better off just using a vented catch can with one hose connected to the filler neck.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,243
Likes: 42
From: Kennewick, Washington
If you can't wait, ask garfinkle
My next try on the stock twins is going to be to run the baconsports oil pan and then run with the oil up to the 1/2 way on the dipstick. I know that running it at 1/2 will greatly minimize what I saw in my catch can previously, but hated running the car that low on oil. The new pan will allow me to run at 1/2 on the dipstick but still have an appropriate amount of oil capacity.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,243
Likes: 42
From: Kennewick, Washington
interesting. As in you're making them for sale? or just had one custom made by David? Any pictures? Any risk of oil flow from the rear turbo causing an issue?
My next try on the stock twins is going to be to run the baconsports oil pan and then run with the oil up to the 1/2 way on the dipstick. I know that running it at 1/2 will greatly minimize what I saw in my catch can previously, but hated running the car that low on oil. The new pan will allow me to run at 1/2 on the dipstick but still have an appropriate amount of oil capacity.
My next try on the stock twins is going to be to run the baconsports oil pan and then run with the oil up to the 1/2 way on the dipstick. I know that running it at 1/2 will greatly minimize what I saw in my catch can previously, but hated running the car that low on oil. The new pan will allow me to run at 1/2 on the dipstick but still have an appropriate amount of oil capacity.
I can have my wife send me pictures of it if you're interested.
I think I Paid $35-40 for it since it was his first one.
I'd be interested in the pics. Did you ever get a chance to run it and test it? Just not sure how well the vent works on an active oil drain, but I also don't know how much oil actually drains out of the stock twins either.
Did you ever get a chance to test this? I've tried everything I can with the twins and using only the oil fill neck as venting and I'm messing with the catch can all damn weekend at the track. I'm going to try the rear turbo oil drain next, but would love to know if you tried it first as it'll be a pain to do.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 80
From: netherlands
I just ran into this issue with my 2nd gen.
Got a breather tank hooked up to the pipe just below the oil filler base, and after the tank got filled all the way up to the inlet, it started spitting oil out.
I should've drained it before the test at the track last week
Anyway, I think I am going to make my own fillerneck.
Is there a difference between the 13B-REW oil filler base, and the one on the 13B-T?
Do I have to make any fancy things inside the fillerneck besides a bung for the breather hose?
Oh, and the 2nd engine has no return at the rear iron. Turbo oil return is at the front and its currently in use of the turbo :P
Got a breather tank hooked up to the pipe just below the oil filler base, and after the tank got filled all the way up to the inlet, it started spitting oil out.
I should've drained it before the test at the track last week
Anyway, I think I am going to make my own fillerneck.
Is there a difference between the 13B-REW oil filler base, and the one on the 13B-T?
Do I have to make any fancy things inside the fillerneck besides a bung for the breather hose?
Oh, and the 2nd engine has no return at the rear iron. Turbo oil return is at the front and its currently in use of the turbo :P
Last edited by GeenIdee; Aug 6, 2016 at 09:24 AM.
One trick is a big line and big filter. A lot of people try to restrict the flow, and that has the effect of raising the pressure. Think about what happens when you put your thumb at the end of a garden hose.
Try a -10 line and big (2" plus) filter so it can vent the pressure. I used a 1 quart Jaz catch can, which is also see through and stainable so it's easier to use.
It'll fill a bit on first run, then once you're down a half a quart, just leave it like that and it won't keep filling.
Try a -10 line and big (2" plus) filter so it can vent the pressure. I used a 1 quart Jaz catch can, which is also see through and stainable so it's easier to use.
It'll fill a bit on first run, then once you're down a half a quart, just leave it like that and it won't keep filling.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: London to the Bay
Damian, thanks for putting together this guide. I have two questions for you
1. You said you didn't have to empty out the can for a whole day of track driving. That is great; however the catch can oil I've seen is mostly dark. Wouldn't it be beneficial to dump that oil out and just add new oil along the way?
2. Oil line that goes above transmission: How did you secure it? Is it ok for those braided lines to rub on metal parts?
1. You said you didn't have to empty out the can for a whole day of track driving. That is great; however the catch can oil I've seen is mostly dark. Wouldn't it be beneficial to dump that oil out and just add new oil along the way?
2. Oil line that goes above transmission: How did you secure it? Is it ok for those braided lines to rub on metal parts?
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