3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Odd coolant temp fluctuations common cause?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 06:19 AM
  #1  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Odd coolant temp fluctuations common cause?

Morning. Car is running absolutely flawless. Rock solid and very pleased, but 3x after the car is fully warmed up I noticed during normal cruise the coolant temp drop into the 50s hang out for a few seconds and slowly climb back up into the 80s. Speaking °C. Did a couple pulls on I595 the other day to shake some dust off and it did it again after a pull.
Air pocket? Doubt it. I would think even if the sensor is dry for a few seconds it would be above 50°c. Possible?
Loose connector? Possibly. I do have a new connector I will swap.
Any other ideas what the most common issue is?

N-Flo, Upgraded water pump, new oem thermostat. All the sensors should be new unless the builder didn't swap them when he installed the new motor.
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 07:19 AM
  #2  
Slides's Avatar
Arrogant Wankeler
Tenured Member: 15 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 230
From: Hunter Valley NSW Australia
Was there another electrical load cycling at the time? I'm assuming possibly a wiring issue in term of movement or a poor ecu earth or another sensor pulling the 5V signal down. Is TPS doing anything funny?

IT is possible for a bit of a shock to happen if the thermostat is going from bypass to open on warmup if the fluid in the radiator is very cold but I wouldn't think it would happen more than once.

Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 07:31 AM
  #3  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Originally Posted by Slides
Was there another electrical load cycling at the time? I'm assuming possibly a wiring issue in term of movement or a poor ecu earth or another sensor pulling the 5V signal down. Is TPS doing anything funny? IT is possible for a bit of a shock to happen if the thermostat is going from bypass to open on warmup if the fluid in the radiator is very cold but I wouldn't think it would happen more than once.
​​​​​​​No electrical load cycling that I am aware of. I will eventually be installing some id1700s in the secondary so it will be a good time for me to check the change the connector and the ground.​​​​​​​I am not sure if it actually does it more than once per drive. Something I can keep an eye on. It was only noticeable in the pfc not on the factory gauge. The factory gauge has no mods to it though and is still linear. It just stayed solid "warmed up)The ambient temp is still very warm as I am in the Ft. Lauderdale area. The temp stays below 90c, in the high 80s so the thermostat should have fully cycled a couple times. It runs around 87-88c normally. If it is hot out and in boost a lot will run 93-95max.
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 09:02 AM
  #4  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Moderator
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Testrun
No electrical load cycling that I am aware of. I will eventually be installing some id1700s in the secondary so it will be a good time for me to check the change the connector and the ground.​​​​​​​I am not sure if it actually does it more than once per drive. Something I can keep an eye on. It was only noticeable in the pfc not on the factory gauge. The factory gauge has no mods to it though and is still linear. It just stayed solid "warmed up)The ambient temp is still very warm as I am in the Ft. Lauderdale area. The temp stays below 90c, in the high 80s so the thermostat should have fully cycled a couple times. It runs around 87-88c normally. If it is hot out and in boost a lot will run 93-95max.
the factory gauge uses a different sender, so that would point to the bad/loose ground or maybe just a bad coolant temp sensor, they do that
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 09:23 AM
  #5  
DaleClark's Avatar
RX-7 Bad Ass
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
First off, what are you reading your coolant temp from? Aftermarket gauge, PFC Commander, Haltech....?

What does the coolant temp gauge in the dash do when this happens?

Most likely a sensor or electrical problem. MAYBE with the cold temps we are having it could be when the thermostat opens it's dumping in very cold coolant from the radiator and dropping the temps.

Dale
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 09:27 AM
  #6  
cr-rex's Avatar
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (114)
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,425
Likes: 489
From: okinawa to tampa
Replace the sensor
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 09:31 AM
  #7  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
This is a reading off the pfc. The factory gauge has no abnormal movement.
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 10:46 AM
  #8  
DaleClark's Avatar
RX-7 Bad Ass
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
That's the 2-wire sensor in the back of the water pump housing with the green plug that feeds the water temp to the ECU.

Did your new thermostat have a jiggle pin? If not you may want to drill a small (like 1/8") hole at the top of the thermostat to let some coolant flow when the thermostat is closed.

It does almost sound like the radiator is full of cold coolant since I'm sure you are getting lower than normal air temps right now, especially highway driving. Engine coolant warms up, hits thermostat opening temp, opens it up and them gets hit with 40-50 degree coolant that's in the large aftermarket radiator. Temps drop, thermostat closes, temps work their way back up, repeat.

I would expect different behavior if the sensor was bad. Typically they either work or they don't.

One of the guys here blocks off half his radiator with a piece of cardboard in cooler weather. That gets the engine up to temp faster and doesn't over-cool the car.

Dale
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 11:09 AM
  #9  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Moderator
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by DaleClark
I would expect different behavior if the sensor was bad. Typically they either work or they don't.

Dale
ive seen a bunch that were broken such that they were intermittent. the funniest one would go both ways, so sometimes the car was dead cause the ecu thought it was 140c and the sometimes it would flood because the ecu thought it was -40c

Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 11:41 AM
  #10  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Thx guys. That's the plug that looks a bit crappy. I will replace the sensor and the plug I guess. Cheap insurance. I could block the radiator a bit, but she does get up to temp, just takes awhile. Dale I don't remember if I drilled this thermostat or not. I could check it out.
Reply
Old Feb 7, 2022 | 12:19 PM
  #11  
ZE Power MX6's Avatar
Boilermakers!
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (170)
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 379
From: Chicago, IL
This definitely sounds like a electrical issue, since it is not that realistic to have a 30°C fluid temperature swing in a couple of seconds under normal circumstances. I would check for bad sensor or wiring as mentioned above.
Reply
Old Feb 8, 2022 | 07:43 AM
  #12  
arghx's Avatar
rotorhead
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 16,205
Likes: 461
From: cold
I have seen these sensors fail/go bad. If it's original, the sensor is suspect and should be replaced. If that doesn't change the observed behavior at least you know you have a good one.
Reply
Old Feb 10, 2022 | 10:15 AM
  #13  
Wompa164's Avatar
Rotary Freak
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 10
From: Dallas, TX
Originally Posted by DaleClark
That's the 2-wire sensor in the back of the water pump housing with the green plug that feeds the water temp to the ECU.

Did your new thermostat have a jiggle pin? If not you may want to drill a small (like 1/8") hole at the top of the thermostat to let some coolant flow when the thermostat is closed.

It does almost sound like the radiator is full of cold coolant since I'm sure you are getting lower than normal air temps right now, especially highway driving. Engine coolant warms up, hits thermostat opening temp, opens it up and them gets hit with 40-50 degree coolant that's in the large aftermarket radiator. Temps drop, thermostat closes, temps work their way back up, repeat.

I would expect different behavior if the sensor was bad. Typically they either work or they don't.

One of the guys here blocks off half his radiator with a piece of cardboard in cooler weather. That gets the engine up to temp faster and doesn't over-cool the car.

Dale
That's exactly what used to happen on my old FC. I can't remember where the water temp. sensor was installed but essentially the car would heat up to the thermostats opening point, and then suddenly the temp. gauge would dip significantly as it opened up and the radiator became in-path. I'd say if this is only happening once after startup (and not intermittently during driving) and at a regular temperature, you can assume that's what is happening.
Reply
Old Feb 10, 2022 | 11:19 AM
  #14  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Thx guys I will keep you posted as I go fwd.... when I get a chance to get it back out.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DrunkenBowler
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
21
May 3, 2006 02:58 PM
TheTwinTurboRX-7
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
4
May 8, 2003 05:55 PM
ltltgr
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
4
Sep 29, 2002 09:56 PM
Hyperite
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
6
Jun 4, 2002 01:03 PM
Diamond Geeza
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
3
Jun 4, 2002 05:21 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:10 AM.