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Notchy Shifts

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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 02:22 PM
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tcb100's Avatar
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DinoDude
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From: Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
Notchy Shifts

Over the last few months my shifter has become REALLY notchy, as if the bushing on the base of the shifter was broken. It's not.

The tranny is a year old. Tranny fluid is topped up. The B&M shifter is about two years old. The clutch & flywheel are 6 months old, new clutch Master and Slave. I have an engine torque brace. The transmission was out of the car a few months back for the clutch & flywheel install.

Now sitting at idle, I can shift with a couple of fingers, click, click click but under power, it's a whole different story. I practically break my wrist throwing hard shifts with the "stoppage" between gears.

Any thoughts?
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 02:26 PM
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What kind of fluid are you using? When I used Redline, as soon as it started to get colder out as it is now, it would get real notchy. I switched to Neo and that took care of my problem.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 02:33 PM
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DinoDude
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Mazda stuff, whatever it is. Neo huh? May have to give that a try. Any other obvious issues?

Last edited by tcb100; Oct 12, 2004 at 02:36 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 02:38 PM
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From: Parlor City, NY
Originally Posted by tcb100
Mazda stuff, whatever it is. Neo huh? May have to give that a try. Any other obvious issues?
www.neosyntheticoil.com
I tried it after a recommendation from Mazdatrix, works much better for me then Redline. I had to move the car a few times in the winter, it wouldn't even go in gear with the Redline, I had to start the car up and wait until the car warmed up the fluid before I could shift.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 02:41 PM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
NEO HD is $17/bottle but I think they may have regular stuff to. Did you fill the fill the shifter housing with fluid? How bad are the engine mounts? Did you replace the plastic bushing? ...it may be cracked. There is an aluminum replacement.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 04:30 PM
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I use Neo as well in the transmission, works great cold and warm.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 04:34 PM
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DinoDude
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I wondered about the mounts. They look OK. And it's not a matter of only WOT.

I replaced the bushing first thing. It felt exactly like the bushing was smashed. I do have fluid in the housing.

It was not always like this. "Butter" is the way it was previously described by an RX-7 tuner.

Is there any thing that could be screwed up when the tranny was put back in after the clutch. I don't know squat about transmissions.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 04:54 PM
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I have the same problem, although it seems to only happen at low speeds. It sometimes has a very slight stick coming out of 1st (as well as going in, like it won't go in). The going it to 2nd its either notchy or I feel a slight grind. the tranny was rebuilt about 3 years ago from Pettit. I am not sure of the fluid in it, but I might aswell try the Neo.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 07:12 PM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
You also need fluid where the bottom end of the shifter is (where bushing is). Check the bushing again and see if it cracked. If it did, replace with an aluminum one. Fluid in the housing should be changed every two years, I believe.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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I am curious to use something I use to use in my 99 civic Si, GM Synchromesh with friction modifier.

This stuff worked like a charm in my Si tranny. Right now I am using Neo, which works wonderfully.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:39 PM
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From: Minden, NV
^^isn't "GM Synchromesh with friction modifier" just gl-5 with a limited slip additive? I think you should just be running motor oil in your Si tranny, silly honda's.

I really like the redline 'medium' shockproof gear lube, but it does really suck in cold weather. Even after it warms up a bit, shifting feels like the tranny is full of mud.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:50 PM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
You should be using the "MTL" version of Red Line for the trans' if you can't use NEO HD.

I use Mobil 1's 15w-50 for my CRX Si trans' (works great).
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