hey whats up guys, well i took my 7 apart because it wouldnt boost more then 4 pounds and wouldnt rev past 6500rpm when it warmed up, now i was scared to see what the inside of the engine looked like because i saw awhite oil in the filler neck and i thought it could be bad but i took the turbos off and found a few vacuum lines off and a bad seleniod, but i also figured out that i cant get the turbo pre control acuator and the wastegate acuator to open i put 25psi of vacuum to them and they didnt move, i guess my question is what else should i look for before putting it back together knowing this problem? also wear could i get these parts cheap? and any insite on the situation would be great.

 

bumpity bump, looking for help soon

 

bump

 

well id really like some help please

 

your problem is strange to me...for when you put it back together, i would replace the vac lines with silicone ones and replace gaskets and coolant lines. you can get the coolent lines from ray crowe at malloy mazda, the soleniods from another forum member for cheap, and the vac hoses in a kit from ebay

est price for all these:110.00-150.00

 

do you know what member would have the seliniods? and how about the acuators?

 

agree with 4CN but my .02 is that the cheap ebay vac lines arn't worth the money you saved. i ended up buying a set and redid all my vac lines just to have them crack and break a short time later. the flimsy rubber ones are easier to work with, but the stiffer ones like GReddy/Trust makes are alot more reliable.

 

thanks for the tips guys, i will go with a good vac line like greddy

 

ok i think i figured out what might be wrong with the car, i havent put it back together yet so im not sure but tell me if this sounds right to anyone? If the oil pump meter goes bad or malfunctions the ecu will go into failsafe, when the ecu is in that mode it will cut boost and restrict rpm levels, right? ok my question is where does the rs cut out, i can rev to 6500 then it stops, and im only boosting four pounds, are these numbers right for failsafe they seem alitte high for the rs anyway? anyone go through this or been around one in failsafe mode. Also i know how to check the codes but what is the number code for failsafe, i will be checking them by ten to ground. please let me know if anyone knows anything

 

as far as i know theres no one specific code for "limp mode" (failsafe), excpet for the OMP.

http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html

i would see if any codes are stored, and if they are see what they are then reset the ecu (dissconnect the - terminal and press the brake then reconnect the - terminal.)

I would also premix to be on the safe side any time you suspect a problem with the OMP

 

thanks for the info rotordream, that site helps alot

 

you prob bought plastic hoses, i got a silicone kit and its wonderful. 6 months and no problems thus far.

 

they said silicone on the package, but guess what, ebay's like a box of chocolates!