Jedon

I have one of the nipples on the wastegate capped, and a needle valve between it and the turbo, and I have it all the ay closed so the wastegate should never open right?
I'm only getting 8psi though :-(
Non-sequential btw.

meddle

I had a similar problem were i was getting 7-8 psi non sequential. I never bothered really fixing it because it happened aobut a week before i pulled my engine.

hercdriver

iTrader: (2)

I'm having the same problem. I just installed a new set of turbos though. I can't figure out if its a PFC problem or a install problem.

skunks

ok, so whats the problem? Is it that you wanna get less boost? the wastegate is gonna stay closed (or is it opened) till at least 7-8psi (the lowest psi you can make) because of the internal spring. you can get a new spring with less pressure i guess but i have not heard of anyone that sells these.

If the problem is that your not getting enuf boost, with the needle all the way closed, you should be getting a hell of a lot more boost then 8psi, should actually be around 20psi, more then enuf to pop your engine.

which non-seq set up did you do, the poor man's way or the full conversion? did you forget to wire the tca open, if this closes, you might be only getting 8psi max. make sure you wire it open good, i know someone that wired it open but it some how slipped off so make sure this is wired open. Who did the non-seq for you and if you did it yourself, would you mind writing out what you did so we can double check your procedure.

also, what other mods do you have on your car (if you have the power Fc, did you forget to switch the wastegate and turbo precontroler solonoids)? Are you sure that your not boost leaking? (this could be from one of the many gaskets, couplers of bov's). how about the exhaust, im assuming you have a dp, mp, catback, if not, anyone of these might be clogged.

Good luck and write back with some status reports

Jedon

I did the poor mans non-seq myself.
I have a brand new street ported engine.
I broke the engine in, and was seeing 10psi in seq mode. Then the second turbo started coming on only sporadically, then quit all together so I got 10-12psi to 4000rpm and then 0psi to redline.
I figured a solenoid had gone out or a vac hose so I decided to just go non seq and be done with it. I have a PowerFC so I just took out all the solenoids except for the one near the alternator.
I wired the TCA open, but it could have slipped, thanx I'll check that out.
I routed a vac hose the FPR and to the remaining solenoid, and hooked my boost gauge up to one of the uim nippes. I installed a Profec A but wasn not quite sure what to do about the precontrol so I left the wastegate to precontrol hose on. I could only get about 8psi so I took the profec off and put a needle valve in. I saw the sam behavior so asked here and they said the cap the precontrol and the wategate to precontrol nipple so I did but still only see 8-9psi. I do not hear a sharp sound when the bov goes off like it used to, but I presume that is because the abv and crv are in parallel now.
I still have the precat unfortunatly but do have a midpipe and catback, IC, and intake.
Don't get me wrong, it pulls pretty damn hard even at 9psi but I want to unleash the full power of the beast hehe.

skunks

what is the FPR?

also, if i were you, i would get rid of that precat asap!!! How come the guys installing the new engine did not offer to put on the down pipe, I mean when its out of the car, its 4 friggen studs/bolts you can easily get to!!! when in the car, its gonna be hell to get it out and reinstalled, especially if a stud breaks on you!!!

Ok, the other thing I am wondering about is, who the hell on the board is telling people that they must pull all the solonoids out all at the same time when doing the non-seq conversion??? When doing any kinda mod, you are suppose to remove only one thing or install one thing and run it for a week/500 miles to see if everything is ok and then do the next mod, you never do like 5-10 mods all at once cuz your never gonna be able to figure out what if anything when wrong! For those doing the poor man's non-seq conversion, there is no real need at the time of doing it to removed anything!!! Just do the conversion via dontbearikki's site (that one is great cuz of all the nice pics!!!) and leave the solonids in, test it out and then if everything is going good for a least a week, start removing one of the solonoids at a time and test to see if that does anything. Unless your a trained and license mechanic, you might not be even pulling the right solonoids!!!

Ok enuf of that rant, lets move on... could you please take a pic of where your needle valve is going, I'm not 100% sure you put it in the right place. Also since you do indeed have a Power FC, have you turned the power FC to non-seq mode for the turbos (yes there is a mode, you just gotta find it) and have you tried switching around the eletrical connections with the wastegate and turbo precontorler solonoids (these are the ones in front of the uim, under the pressure box)

Good luck!

http://www.dontbearikki.com/id49.htm

P.S. did you wire/unplug the charge control valve vaccum hose open and/or take out the butterflies in there??? Also your doing all these test runs at WOT in 3rd gear right?

Jedon

FPR = fuel presure regulator
I took the engine out and back in myself.
I didn't put on a downpipe because I had to pass smog.
Now I don't have one on because I sold my other one due to a pending trade for my old engine for a single turbo kit that fell through and now I have no $ to buy another one. It is #1 on my list though.
I am not using the turbo control and turbo precontrol solenoids, I took them out because it was said that they were not needed if I used external boost control.
I did not set the PFC to non-sec mode because it is not controlling boost, the needle valve is (or should be).
Perhaps if I hook the profec back up then all be well now that I have the precontroll sealed off and the other wastegate nipple plugged.
I have the needle valve in between the turbo and the wastegate actuator. The other side of the wastgate actuator is plugged. The precontrol is plugged. The other nipple on the turbo is plugged.
I admit I am rash in just yanking it all out, and trust me I was pretty surprised that the car ran at all after taking so much stuff off!
I did use dontbearikkis how-to and read that thread for tips. I made a blockoff plate for the secondary air injection stuff and took it off. The air pump is still on but the electrical connector is disconnected so it just freewheels.
Thanks for the help!
Am I right in thinking that the wastegate should stay closed if it never sees 7spi? So if the needle valve is preventing any boost signal from the turbo by being closed, the wastegate should stay closed?
-Jedon

skunks

not sure what you mean by Am I right in thinking that the wastegate should stay closed if it never sees 7spi?

but the wastegates have an internal spring so that when the needels are fully open, you should see 7psi (the minimum boost) so the wastegates are never fully closed. if the needles are closed all the way, you should be boosting at least 20psi or more

Jedon

okay then I am right in thinking that there is something wrong since otherwise I would be getting 20psi and I'm not. Would a clogged precat affect boost this much?
Maybe I have a leak in the intake system someplace between the turbo and the IC, perhaps the ypipe coupler has a tear that only opens at 9+psi?
Either that or my TCA wire came loose.

skunks

I read some where on this forum where someone had a tear in his y pipe/crossover coupler and was only getting 7psi, he fixed it and was at 16psi+. I'm not sure how clogged your precat is, does it ever glow red?

Jedon

No my precat does not glow.
I kkep the car cool though with a koyo and NPG+ and run the fans a lot.
I also cool the car down after using the turbos so by the time I stop they are cooler anyhow.

meddle

The tca should be removed completely. My car hadf this problem about a week before i ynaked the engine for a winter rebuild. But before i gave up on it, i replaced the wastegate solenoid with a working used one, checked every vacuum line I fucked with, and made sure the precontrol door was still wired. Everything seemed to be in working order but i still had problems. i guess ill diagnose it more this spring.

Jedon

Sorry yeah I removed the TCA and wired open the pre-control, but maybe the wire came off. When I get a downpipe I'll take the flapper door out.

hercdriver

iTrader: (2)

If I have a PFC should I still need the needle valve?

Jedon

no if you have a powerfc and want to use it for boost control then you leave the boost control solenoid on, us it to control the boost instead of a needle valve. I chose to remove all the solenoids and use a profec a for boost control.

hercdriver

iTrader: (2)

Argh, then I have no idea why the dang wastegate actuator isn't getting the signal to stay closed. I must be missing something or forgot to cap something.