Noltec replacement polyurethane???
#1
Noltec replacement polyurethane???
Hey guys, searched all over and can’t seem to find any info on replacing the polyurethane pucks on my Noltec mounts. I recently resealed my oil pan and noticed they are beginning to split. Does anyone know where I can find just the puck??
Thanks fellas!
Nick
Thanks fellas!
Nick
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (33)
Thats too bad. Noltecs are NLA. I think they were acquired by some other company and then the FD mounts were discontinued.
There are some DIY poly kits out there but not sure how difficult it would we to “pour” the poly liquid and make a new puck.
How many miles did you put on them?
There are some DIY poly kits out there but not sure how difficult it would we to “pour” the poly liquid and make a new puck.
How many miles did you put on them?
#6
I was hoping they had used a common pick design. Crap.
I dont know the mileage because the PO installed them, but based on what he told me about when he started modding, I don’t think it’s been more than 15k miles.
I think the heat kills them. I was going to put some extra attention to protecting them this time around because the passenger side is almost completely split while the driver side is only slightly split.
Either way, it looks like I will need to replace...suggestions?
I like the Noltec design because they incorporate that lovely bracket for added safety. What’s the “next best thing” outside of Noltec?
Nick
I dont know the mileage because the PO installed them, but based on what he told me about when he started modding, I don’t think it’s been more than 15k miles.
I think the heat kills them. I was going to put some extra attention to protecting them this time around because the passenger side is almost completely split while the driver side is only slightly split.
Either way, it looks like I will need to replace...suggestions?
I like the Noltec design because they incorporate that lovely bracket for added safety. What’s the “next best thing” outside of Noltec?
Nick
#7
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
The best option out there is the Full Function Engineering mounts. REALLY well designed and engineered. They are pricey though.
Second would be IRP motor mounts, really nice quality and fair price.
Dale
Second would be IRP motor mounts, really nice quality and fair price.
Dale
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#9
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
Buy a rod of 3" OD polyurethane 80 durometer on ebay (there are often drops from larger cuts FS there). Length ~12" or longer so you can clamp it in a vise.
Freeze the rod overnight so you can cut it. Cut 6 ea 1" discs with a sawzall in your vise as square as possible. Drill 1/2" hole thru center of each disc.
For each mount:
-use 2 ea 1" sections between subframe and engine (for a total of ~2" mount height)
-the reason I use 2 ea 1" sections instead of 1 ea 2" is to reduce the amount you need to jack up engine... just slide 2 in there, 1 at a time.
-use 1 ea 1" section under the subframe to damp vibrations in opposite direction (you will need to chamfer edges with angle grinder to match subframe relief)
-use 1/2" x ~4.5" long bolts and oversized fender washers through all
Poly mounts inevitably break down from heat/age/oil heat shield or no. I've even cut a teflon insulator for the turbo side and it still broke down.
I cut/chamfered my last set in an hour with about $30 in material used.
Freeze the rod overnight so you can cut it. Cut 6 ea 1" discs with a sawzall in your vise as square as possible. Drill 1/2" hole thru center of each disc.
For each mount:
-use 2 ea 1" sections between subframe and engine (for a total of ~2" mount height)
-the reason I use 2 ea 1" sections instead of 1 ea 2" is to reduce the amount you need to jack up engine... just slide 2 in there, 1 at a time.
-use 1 ea 1" section under the subframe to damp vibrations in opposite direction (you will need to chamfer edges with angle grinder to match subframe relief)
-use 1/2" x ~4.5" long bolts and oversized fender washers through all
Poly mounts inevitably break down from heat/age/oil heat shield or no. I've even cut a teflon insulator for the turbo side and it still broke down.
I cut/chamfered my last set in an hour with about $30 in material used.
#11
THanks for all the responses guys. Anyone have experience with Banzai poly in the Noltec mounts? It appears the Noltec’s use the factory steel bracket, as the Banzai is designed to use as well. Any ideas on whether that will work? Only $125 and maybe an hour or les of work it seems...?
Nick
Nick
#13
Thanks for your input, Banzai.
The Noltec uses the same steel brackets that you do, correct? Thus, all I should need to do, would be to remove the mounts, clean them up, and then replace the hardware and polyurethane puck (blue) with your hardware and polyurethane puck, yes?
The Noltec design has some sort of gold anodized bracket which kind of hooks in place. Would this be retained?
Forgive me, these mounts were on the car when I bought it and I have never had the need to research engine mounts - didn’t think I’d need to learn much of anything but just replace the poly. I appreciate your help.
Any advice also on your street vs race options? My goal is low vibration above all else as I have other drivetrain bracing and planned on implementing an engine torque brace in the future to try and relieve stress on the engine mounts going forward.
Thank you.
Nick
The Noltec uses the same steel brackets that you do, correct? Thus, all I should need to do, would be to remove the mounts, clean them up, and then replace the hardware and polyurethane puck (blue) with your hardware and polyurethane puck, yes?
The Noltec design has some sort of gold anodized bracket which kind of hooks in place. Would this be retained?
Forgive me, these mounts were on the car when I bought it and I have never had the need to research engine mounts - didn’t think I’d need to learn much of anything but just replace the poly. I appreciate your help.
Any advice also on your street vs race options? My goal is low vibration above all else as I have other drivetrain bracing and planned on implementing an engine torque brace in the future to try and relieve stress on the engine mounts going forward.
Thank you.
Nick
#14
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
The Noltec uses the same steel brackets that you do, correct? Thus, all I should need to do, would be to remove the mounts, clean them up, and then replace the hardware and polyurethane puck (blue) with your hardware and polyurethane puck, yes?
The Noltec design has some sort of gold anodized bracket which kind of hooks in place. Would this be retained?
The Noltec design has some sort of gold anodized bracket which kind of hooks in place. Would this be retained?
Last edited by Sgtblue; 01-31-18 at 02:01 PM.
#15
Everything related to the Noltec would be removed. The "hook" is part of the mount, it is what they molded the rubber to. Go with the streets for low vibration. I would not install an engine torque brace. Install one of our Trans Crossmembers to reduce stress on the mounts. http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/FD_Trans_CM.html
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 01-31-18 at 02:04 PM.
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (33)
Everything related to the Noltec would be removed. The "hook" is part of the mount, it is what they molded the rubber to. Go with the streets for low vibration. I would not install an engine torque brace. Install one of our Trans Crossmembers to reduce stress on the mounts. Transmission Crossmember
I wanted one so bad that I bought it and shipped it to a friend in the US who shipped it to me in Europe via container ship for free, waited 3 months to get it, convinced the local customs office that it has no value so they don't charge me anything! Priceless! Bet you guys never imagined one of your trans crossmembers would end up in south east Europe
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