So I’ve had start issues for a while, lots of trouble shooting has happened since the rebuild, car started fine at first but ran like ****. I adjusted the TPS and the car ran much more smoothly, until it died while I left it to idle and come up to temp. Since then, it won’t start. Of course I thought it was just flooded so I’ve been through all that. Changed the plugs and it started again, but then died again. Since then I took the injectors out and had them cleaned, but now I have no spark. I’ve replaced the igniter (as I thought perhaps it was getting a weak spark) and now I realise I can’t hear the fuel pump prime on key turn, so I’m assuming the issues are linked. Fuel pump works when I bridge the connections at the diagnosis port.

at the end of my tether with it at this point! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

with a stock ECU, the pump does not prim with the key on. the pump will run with the key in the start position, with the car running, or if you jump the F/P and GND in the diagnostic box

 

Sorry, I’ve worded that wrong, I mean key on start. So the engine cranks but yet no fuel pump noise. I definitely used to get fuel pump sounds on crank.

 

It looks like the igniter shares the same voltage feed wire as the fuel pump. I would go down the chain of voltage feed and make sure that you are seeing voltage at the pump. With the resistor in place, I believe you should see around 9V in "low load" conditions. I had corrosion my trunk connector between the body harness and the bulkhead harness, so that would be an easy place to check as well. Here is a snippet of the wiring diagram:

 

Solved the fuel pump and no spark issue! One wire had come loose out of one of the CAS sensor plugs! Ballache to get to but sorted.

now the engine starts and runs but only on one rotor by the sounds of it.

 

Not likely with FP not working, but...the other rotor flooded from excessive cranking and/or spark plug fouled?