Rebuild Startup Question
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Rebuild Startup Question
I'm just installed a rebuilt 13bt into my gxl, and it wont start. I think it might be a used walbro I installed, when I turn the key to ACC should the fuel pump be running? I cant hear the fuel pump at all. And when I checked the spark plugs there was no smell of fuel on them.
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There ain't no such thing as PRIME on a RX-7. Stop it.
The pump runs when the key is HELD to START or the engine is actually running. There is a fuel pump check connector to pressurize the fuel rails to check for leakage. I assume you just did that per the Haynes.
Your car is FLOODED. Unplug the fuel pump altogether. Throw the Waldo in the trash heap where it belongs. Probably the same Waldo used on my weedwhacker.
Try using a two second spray of starter fluid in the air filter with no fuel pump connected to see if the thing will even cough.
Make sure your water thermo sensor is connected at the back of the water pump housing. The ECU uses a intenal Fuel Map for Starting. It looks at rpm under 500rpm, the water temp as seen by the water thermo sensor and a Start signal on pin 3B of the ECU, when in the start cycle.
Engine is flooded or the timing is waaaay off in left field since you have spark (you would have said so if you didn't, right? Right).
Or there's about a dozen other reasons like a air duct off blah, blah, blah.
You have low compression, that's why it's flooding imho.
The pump runs when the key is HELD to START or the engine is actually running. There is a fuel pump check connector to pressurize the fuel rails to check for leakage. I assume you just did that per the Haynes.
Your car is FLOODED. Unplug the fuel pump altogether. Throw the Waldo in the trash heap where it belongs. Probably the same Waldo used on my weedwhacker.
Try using a two second spray of starter fluid in the air filter with no fuel pump connected to see if the thing will even cough.
Make sure your water thermo sensor is connected at the back of the water pump housing. The ECU uses a intenal Fuel Map for Starting. It looks at rpm under 500rpm, the water temp as seen by the water thermo sensor and a Start signal on pin 3B of the ECU, when in the start cycle.
Engine is flooded or the timing is waaaay off in left field since you have spark (you would have said so if you didn't, right? Right).
Or there's about a dozen other reasons like a air duct off blah, blah, blah.
You have low compression, that's why it's flooding imho.
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Thanks for the info, I put some oil in lower spark plug holes. And after a couple of times of trying to start it started but for a 1 second! Tryed starting again didn't start. I have rtek 1.8 so i guess if i want to unflood i can just press the gas. I think your right about the low compression. I'm using 10w30 is that ok for creating compression?
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I got a hold of some marvel mystery oil and car starts more often but will only stay on for like 2 seconds holds idle at 1500 then dies. Not sure if it's still compression issue or what. How often should I inject MMO into lower spark plug holes?
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I fixed the timing as shown in haynes. But The car will not startup at all now. Now the buzzer is going off when I turn the key to ACC, I checked oil and it fine, checked coolant its also o.k.
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Another thought...I had a similar problem after installing a rebuilt except for the buzzer. I had not moved the fuel injector diffusers from the old block to the new. They are easy to miss.
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Timing must be wrong because it won't startup now, if i'm not mistaken you line up the key on the eccentric shaft to the timing pin on front cover, and line up dimple with the body of CAS?
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