Hey guys, Ive recently purchased a 94 RX7. It has 40k on the motor. All I can say is wow, what a difference it is from my other car.
Now my question is this....what can I do to make this car more reliable? I could care less about performance right now......lol you guys might laugh at me for this but coming from a 94 Acura Integra LS .... Im afraid to acually get on the throttle right now :p lol .... so I just want to purchase some parts or perform some mods that would keep my motor from blowing. I really couldnt afford a $5000 motor right now

By the way, I wouldve used the search but for some reason here at work it is not letting me

Thanks in advance
Chris

 

good, I was going to say use search LOL

Ok what you need:
AST removed/upgraded
boost guage
water temp guage
downpipe (adds hp too )
radiator upgrade
silicon hoses (40k miles you are more succeptable to boost leaks)
turbo timer
(I know I am leaving something off )

 

Start with a down pipe, it will help keep the temp down in the engine bay.

 

wow, thanks for the speedy reply

Where can I get the AST? Ive searched some of the RX7 stores and havent seen any.....am I looking in the wrong places?

 

I got mine from Jason at www.rx7store.net
www.rotormotorsports.com I believe has them.
Pettit has them www.pettitracing.com

if you want more sites then there is
www.m2performance.com
www.rxecret7.com
and many many more

 

www.n-tech.net has the elimation kit for $60 as opposed to the replacements being $130-150.

 

1) the AST (air separation tank) that is stock from mazda likes to crank and break because its platic. An aluminum should cost you between 100-150

2) the boost gauge will show you how much pound sof boost your turbos are producing, whther its enough or not, its a good way to identify problems early

3)water temp gauge is just because this morot, and how compact it it, gets hot. easily. this will let you know if you are running too warm, because by the time your temp gauge/oil guage on your dash say its too hot, man, it is too late.

4) The downpipe will replace the restrictive stock main cat at the start of your exhaust system (your other 2 replacable parts being your midpipe and catback, but dont do those until you are ready to drop cash on stuff like an ecu upgrade, boost controller, better blow off valve, or boost creep(extra boost)will screw up your engine...). The downpipe, being less restrictive in airflow, will add some hp, and channel heat out of the engine area much better. I say get a stainless steel one.

5) radiator upgrade obviously to keep the engine heat down. Lost of people rave about Fluidyne.

6) at higher mileage , the stock rubber hoses harden and crack sometimes from the heat. This makes boost leaks, which are the main reason for a lot of performance problems where people think its the turbos, etc. and with all that hose (40+ feet, I believe) its easy to have one somewhere. Silicone will last much better. I'm installing Hose Techniques ones right now, I like them because they add color to the engine bay too(www.hosetechniques.com)

7)the turbo timer is to keep you from sitting in your car for 3 minutes each time you park it. The turbos, to be cared for properly, need to be wrmed and coole after being put to use. The engine needs to keep running so that as they cool down, they are still being fed oil. YOu should warm your car up when you drive it, and you should cool it down. A turbo timer will let you turn off and lock your car, continuing to run the engine, usually for 1-5 minutes, and has some sort of kill switch, usually connected to the emergency brake, so if someone tries to break into your car while the timer is still running the engine, and take off the e-brake, it will kill power to everything.

I would also get a front sway bar to add some rigidity to the car's front, it will help increase handling. CHange oil every 2500 miles or less. Not 3000. Use the highest octane you can (here in TX I use 93) That should cover about everything.

 

errr...in #1, about the ast, make that "likes to crack"

hee hee...likes to crank...I'm such a goof

 

Thanks for the breakdown man of steel. One more final question...I promise :P What should the turbos be boosting stock?
Ill be posting later once I get the nerve to up the power! LOL
thanks
Chris

 

once you get the boost gauge, your boost pattern, for healthy turbos, is 10-8-10

 

damn I lied, one more question

Ive read the J&S Knock Sensor would be a great addition to upgrade reliablity.....but for $500-700 .... is it worth it? If it is worthy, where could i purchase one....Ive yet to find a place that carries them.

 

I would also add to replace the original thermostat,install a real temp guage, install miata 207F thermoswitch, and replace fuel filter

 

there are a couple of good sites to check out:

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/
www.iluvmyrx7.com
http://rx7.voodoobox.net/
www.maxcooper.com


In addition to the points made above, never short trip this car. If you start it, move it ten feet, and shut if off, you will very likely flood it. Never shut off your car when it is completely cold. Also, getting the J&S knock sensor is a huge waste of money for you at this point. Spend your money on the items mentioned by the previous posters (except for the turbo timer, I certainly don't need one).

Oh, BTW, unless the previous owner gave you maintenance records, you should just perform a 60000 mile type of service right now (all new fluids and filters, etc).

Also, never take this car to the Mazda dealer if you can help it. Post in the regional forum to get some good specialists in your area. Also, get a service manual. You can download it from www.iluvmyrx7.com

good shopping sites:

www.rx7store.net
www.rx7.com
www.kdrotary.com
www.pettitracing.com
www.srmotorsports.com
www.mazdaformance.com
www.m2performance.com
www.rx7fashion.com

 

I like the turbo timer bc you don't have to sit around in the car waiting alittle while for it to cool down. If you like to sit around for 2-3 min after driving it somewhere then be my guest but I am just impatient and a good hks one only runs about $70.

 

thanks for the info guys, your help goes a long way.

 

I would look into linearizing the temp gauge as well.

http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/technical.html

 

Has anyone ever done any dyno testing on replacing the pre-cat with a DP? I am wondering how much, if any, change I will notice?
My car is at KDR right now getting that, and some other stuff done. All these guys are right on about what mods to do. I got the M2 SS DP, boost gauge, Temp gauge all at once.

 

DarkKnight, you're in for a nice surprise when you get it back.

 

I've heard quotes anywhere from 10-25hp. As Toadman suggested, you will notice a difference. You might also get some backfiring now that your pre-cat will be gone, but that's not a problem.

You should definitely notice the underhood temperatures a lot lower as well. That was something I could feel on my feet.

Those are great to start with... You can't go wrong going to KDR (from what I hear).

 

It might already have been said, but look into replacing all vacuum hoses/lines with silicone ones.

 

The factory service manual says to replace the fuel filter at 60000 miles. Cam at Pettit suggest replacing it TWICE as often (every 30000). If the fuel filter restricts the fuel flow (because its dirty) you could run lean and blow the engine. Unless you know the fuel filter is good, replace it ASAP!