Well after a few weeks of trouble shooting this engine I have come to the conclusion that the engine is ****.

The first time i started it I let her get up to about 90C and checked to make sure there was no air in the system.

I let her run and she would not cool once getting up to 100C. It would just stay there and every once in a while get up to 101C. I verified to make sure both fans are working properly. They come on at 98C w/o the AC on and all the time with the AC on. I left the pressure cap off to verify that the water pump was circulating water. The Koyo Radiator and hoses are all brand new.

I removed the thermostat today to verify that it was working properly, the thermostat tested fine. I left the thermostat off the car and let her run. She still got up to about 100-101C.

I even tried sprayin cold water on the radiator, lol, and nothing....

I sure hope I dont have any problems getting a new reman, cause i believe the coolant seals are shot. I am still getting white smoke out of the exhaust and bubbles(fine stream) out of the filler neck.

 

where did you get your reman from?

I hope somthing like this dosent happen with me or I'm going to eat sombody.

 

Read the title man....

 

oh god dont let me be a victim

 

Keep trying to burp out the air from the system.

Mazda's ReMan' min' specs are not great and most builders go by their own own specs instead based on experience.

 

Malloy has 2 year/24K mile warrenty on their remans. Porting voids that though. I hope you didn't port it.

 

true

if you had a pfc you could set when your fans come on...and make them come on earlier and longer...my car used to heat up like that and so i run the mazda comp radiator and have the pfc working overtime with those fans. I also moved as much stuff out as possible...including the rubber/foam strip that sits under the hood back by the windshield wipers. that engine needs to breathe.

good luck...you should not loose your coolant seals at 101....Id think you will cook them if you start pushing 110-115...a lot of guys run a steady 95-98 out in cali....I prefer to run 87-95 obviously...ran well all the way home 86 was the peak and I was driving fairly hard.

good luck...start working on getting that engine bay to efficiently cool your engine.


j

 

^

He needs the datalogit to change the fan temp.

You can do the fan switch mod.

 

Bubbles in the filler neck is an indication that there is a combustion chamber-coolant system leak. I have personally confirmed this with several shops-so it's not just forum rumor As I'm sure you know white smoke also a bad sign. Although I'm not sure what the norm is for new motors.

It seems the best way to confirm there is a leak is to do a smog sniffer test. KD, Atkins and Rob Pinapple all recomended it. I was quoted $50 to have it performed.

I believe malloy engines come with a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty rather than 2 years 24. I spoke to Ray Crowe about purchasing one a couple weeks ago. Once you know for sure what your problem is please throw a post up on my reman info thread in the 3rd gen section

Your max safe fluid temp depends on what kind of liquid you have in the cooling system. For instance my friend routinely sees 120-125 at the track with Evans yet his motor is holding up fine. Remember the end goal is to avoid deforming the block. Evans is less efficient at transfering heat BUT it doesn't boil and thus doesn't produce hot spots in the motor like water does. I'm still not competely sold on the concept though. I'm going to let him experiment with the witch brew a little longer before I put it in my motor

 

an easy test for bad o rings is to pull your plugs and look at them...they will have coolant on them if the o rings are shot. been there done that...

j

 

Art, I think a better way to say it is -if they have coolant on them the rings are shot.

The point being, the fact they don't have coolant on them is not conclusive proof that your o-rings are fine. In the initial stages of my coolant leak problem I pulled my plugs several times and never found coolant.

 

I've never seen coolant on the plugs, usually if you can get the car started it usually burns off any signs of coolant. If its a reman and the engine has so little miles, it may not be the seals but the slot on the side housing that the coolant seal sits in on on the rotor housing side where the seals touches. These could be corroded away so coolant is going around the seal and into the combustion chamber, it seems to be very common. It happend to me and it suckes. My friends fd reman only lasted for 1month before it would shoot coolant out the tail pipe, he always had lots of white smoke on startup but it never went away. Thats why i think mazda remans suck. I think the mazda warranty is only for 12months.

 

mazda warantee is 2 years 12 thousand miles.

 

ok, lets stop having a pissing match. For those of you that thing the warranty is 2 12 cite a source I talked to malloy and they said 1 year. My friend mike (zoomzoom) also talked to Malloy (through KD) and they said one year.

 

well for those who decide to go the reman route...consider going with a reputable builder instead. Rotary Reliability and Racing (rotaryracing.com) builds them with a two year 24k warrantee...thats what I have...and pineapple racing has a five year which many of the guys have gone with.

rotary reliability will no longer install mazda remans due to the fact that they end up having to warrantee the labor and four out of six fail prematurely with their customers. I dont know what pineapples feelings are on the maz remans...do any of you know?

what are kdr's thoughts on the remans?? they redo many of them right?


j

 

My source?

My source is Ray Crowe I purchased my engine from him 2 weeks ago for 1900 dollars which included the 2 year 12,000 mile warrantee. Is that good enough?

 

I had a problem with pineapple racing but of course with their customer service everything was all well. For me, after weeks of diag i always had coolant in my oil pan. thougth it was the turbos but no. finally came to the conclusion that it was the center plate. pineapple fixed that no problem with a brand new center plate. They paid for the labor and i paid for the center plate.

 

Hey Spoolage you better contact Ray again, because the warranty is 1 yr unlimited miles...

You guys have to understand its not a matter of air in the system and its not a matter of the radiator being efficient enough to cool the engine.

The way my setup is there should be no problem with cooling. I have No AC, No PS, Battery in the Back, Huge HKS Front Mount, Koyo Radiator, And absolutely no solenoids and only 4 vacuum hoses.

The car has not been driven, it has sat, so radiator placement should not be a problem. And I should not be seeing temps of 100C while just sitting at idle with the Fans on constantly and that huge *** radiator.

I KNOW my coolant seals are bad, and I am thinking there is a blockage in the engine coolant passages somewhere.

 

BTW his engines went up to 2050 about 2 months ago...

 

Check to see if your thermosensor is plugged in. What is your distilled water content? If it's 50/50, try a higher ratio of water, say 70% water 30% antifreeze.

 

Damn that really sucks! Even if your get a another motor under warranty, you're still out all the cash for the R & R(x2)

ejamck, I can't remember if you did it yourself... That would suck even more...

 

well then he cut me a deal...

 

I bought a reman from Ray a few months ago and he told me it had a 12 month 12k mile warranty. My local Mazda dealer told me the exact same thing. I don't know where you are getting this 2 year stuff.

 

i hope you got it in writing...but its usually 12 mos and 12k miles...if its two years its 24k for most warrantees.


j

 

for the last time its 1yr unlimited miles... Ever wonder why they don't ask you for the mileage on your car at the time?

BECAUSE THEY DONT NEED IT...

And I was running a 70/30 mix. And yes I did install myself, I can get the engine out in about an hour so its really no big deal.