RPOdesign

The Part came to my Door this Tuesday all the way from Japan while I was still at Work. It said it was delivered, came home, nothing was there. Called DHL and they said they delivered it but couldn’t give me where the exact location was...I started asking my neighbors, they saw the package but Had no idea who took it. Two days later I asked my other neighbor, and she said she thought her dad sent her this part to Fix her Broken Fridge!!! Lol man...Rotary Life

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Wow! Yeah, get your fridge fixed up with a TPS!

Dale

RPOdesign

After adjusting the TPS, it idles better but it still cuts off after 17 seconds...You can here a noticeable clicking sound right before it shuts off. It sounds like coming from one of the Relays?
I can also hear the Fuel Pump running even after it stalls.
***This attempt was done with constant 12v going to Fuel Pump***
***Pressure holds at 40 psi while cranking and does not drop when stalling***

My second attempt I have to keep the Gas pedal down for it to stay on longer.

hmmm what could it be?
Maybe its because everytime my engine floods, I pull out the EGI/ Fuel pump Relays out too many time causing the female contacts to stretch out causing them to work Intermittently? I gotta check that out too next week!

RPOdesign

Here is my 7th attempt after starting while watching the fuel pressure gauge. It drops 10 psi while cranking, but is stable for a short period before shutting off.

This Time I have to Keep the Gas Pedal down to even start the car.

***This 7th Attempt was tested with Original Fuel Pump Wiring receiving no constant 12v***


I also tried checking ECU codes...CEL light does not come on or flash when I jumpered TEN and GRND

rattlehead

If im reading that gauge correctly, seems like when it starts youre st about 30 somethin psi dips to 20 and goes back to 30ish. I looked it up and stock pressure is about 40
so it deems like the fuel pump isnt getting up to 40.

RPOdesign

In that 7th attempt I had switched the fuel wires back to original wiring, with Resistor connected to test it.
In The first video the fuel pressure holds at 40 psi when cranking and does not drop while stalling.

RPOdesign

Fuel Pump pressure Zoomed in from first video with F/P Rewire with constant 12V going to directly to Fuel Pump. Seems to be holding pressure at 40 psi when cranking.

Car Idles much better with TPS calibrated.

I also hilighted the area when the Relay Clicks and Car suddenly dies.

rattlehead

That clicking sounds like the clicking from the air pump if you still have it

RPOdesign

Yes I do! I did have some hot coolant spill in that area when I was burping out the system.

rattlehead

I usually hear that sound when the key is set to on
and occasionally when i rev and its the air pump going on and off for emission reasons. So thats not a relay indicator for the fuel pump as far as I Know
On my car, which is all stock, I never hear the fuel pump prime or start up before turning the key(maybe im deaf)

Are your fp resistor and ignitor in working condition?
And did you make sure the plug wires are in the correct order? I've made a mistake on those thinking I had it right

RPOdesign

I had Jumpered the Resistor with the F/P re-wire...I’ve read that the Resistor somehow can trick the ECU in thinking theres an Air pump?
Maybe Jumping the Resistor caused the Air Pump to Click...also since the Fuel is Okay, maybe theres not much air coming from air pump because I still can’t raise RPM when i hit gas pedal?

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

I've had an air pump go bad and seize, but it's clutched so everything is fine until clutch engages. You didn't mention verifying the pump isn't seized so just making sure.

RPOdesign

Maybe its seized since I’m barely getting any throttle response. Fuel, and TPS are okay...New Alternator maybe Air Pump did go bad?

rattlehead

Also is the thermowax by the tps good?
it should keep the throttle open a bit for idle during start up and then closes it when car is warm.
since you said the throttle pedal lets it stay on longer

Have you tried the old ecu? Since it ran with that one

RPOdesign

Yeah I switched back to old ECU and it ran worse, but I gotta check thermowax...I remember the contacts weren’t touching each other. I’m sure thats okay too

kelldog44

My car is having the same issue. Idles for 5-10 seconds, then drops to around 500 RPM and dies. Been going down the same checklist you have, just changed the spark plug wires and spark plugs. Next on the list was the fuel pump and fuel pressure. Where'd you install fuel pressure gauge under the hood?

RPOdesign

I installed it in the Fuel Line next to Oil Dipstick! Make sure its not the return line!

Bought a Brass T adapter from Actron.com for $10 Every FD owner should get this!!! 0180-000-1478 Dual Manifold with Schrader Connection

RPOdesign

So I had purchased this Used $100 Air Pump from Ebay, and the Magnetic Clutch doesn’t stay Engaged. Atleast it worked for a Few Months Lol!

RPOdesign

This 30amp Fuse before the EGI Relay is pretty Chared Up! Maybe this is the reason why I don’t have any acceleration.

13.54 of Resistance btw...haha
AND the wiring is also connected to the Air Pump, which might be why Magnetic Clutch doesn’t stay engaged when Ignition is On.

rattlehead

Well it definitely cant hurt to replace it

RPOdesign

Here’s the Main Culprit...

I actually can’t wait to pull the motor and do a rebuild...my clutch also needs to be replaced, I got Oil Leaks, so this is a great time to do it!

rattlehead

The ending pretty much says it all.

But now you know what it is and that at least brings some
form of relief

RPOdesign

And also I want to take a Good Look at those Rotors...I want to know what it feels like Holding it in My Hand! 😛😛

RPOdesign

After pulling out my Motor, Which Motor should I put in my Car?!?!

rattlehead

20b if you wanna spend
a complete engine from mazda for getting back up and running faster.👍