My engine is out of my '94 Rx7. New Malloy Mazda engine is getting prepped for installation. Here are my questions:

I have 2 tiny scratches on my flywheel. I can catch my finger nail on them. How do I remove them?

Given this engine is factory new, what is a good break in procedure?

My turbo left a couple of ounces of oil in the intercooler. But it meets the 10-6-10 boost pattern. Is it normal for a turbo to blow oil spray throughtout the intake tubes? How else can you check for wear on the two turbos other than looking at the boost pattern?

Is it possible to over tax the stock fuel injectors if your car has the factory cat and muffler on it?

What are the main key parts that I should replace? I already have new oil metering pump lines.

The Wiring harness (1, 2) is old, dry and cracked. But I don't have any connection issues...yet. Do stiff wires create more resistance than new ones? If I buy a new wiring harness, should I rewrap it with silicone tape?

Warning Noob question:
When loose the trigger pickups move side to side alittle. We're talking a fraction of a millimeter. But will this little left to right distance affect timing?

How do you approach installing a new lower intake gasket? On the bruce Turrentine video he brushes gasket sealer around the intake ports of the LIM. Mazda recommends using molybdenum grease in their directions. What sealant should I use on the lower intake manifold?

Thanks very much

 

Flywheel is fine, and the turbos sound pooched. See if you can find some low KM replacements.

If you're running the stock ECU and a cat (I would ditch the pre-cat/downpipe as soon as you can) you should be fine for the fuel system. However it may be an idea to get them cleaned/flow tested. While the turbos are off I would suggest looking into getting your wastegate ported.

 

Flywheel - I don't think I'd worry about it. After the clutch disc rubs on it for a few hundred miles it should be good to go.

Turbos - It's normal to have "some" oil in the intercooler and/or piping. Since you didn't say the duration it took to collect the oil, you can't really say the turbos are fried. i.e. if you collect a pool of oil over 1-2 months, that a problem.

CAS (triggers) - Have you bolted them down (they aren't in the picture)? They shouldn't really move once bolted in place.

If you want to use a sealant, use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80062.../dp/B000HBGHB8

And "Is it possible to over tax the stock fuel injectors if your car has the factory cat and muffler on it?"

Is it possible, sure. However, if you do everything right it's not likely.

 

Judging by your answer, you just bolt the triggers in and the stock ECU does the rest.

The little 2 or so ounces of oil in the intercooler was from since the car was new. The turbos had 44k miles on them. Sorry I didn't mention that.

Thanks,

 

*I removed all the old brittle tape wrap on the harness and replaced it with silicone fusion tape. Where it was likely to rub or possibly contact oil I'd augment it with new electrical or friction tape and then cover that with the plastic corrigated loom. It's a tedious job, but thankfully one you can do a little at a time.
This might also give you some ideas... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...61#post8843461

*+1 on the CAS. They shouldn't move. Should be nice and tight.

*I also agree that your turbos are likely fine. Especially with only 44k. I'd install with new turbo coolant hoses though.
Wash the IC out with some dishsoap and hot water and your done.

 

Pretty much. There is proper clearance between the trigger and the sensor, however it's hard to get that messed up unless the trigger wheel is damaged.

As far as the wiring harness, the main issue you may have is a break in a wire which you cannot see behind the shielding. If it's that brittle, I would recommend to bite the bullet and spend the $800 on a new emissions harness. If you do have wiring issues, it will save you many headaches and hair pulling later (plus it's a good investment).

If you do get a new harness, think about re-wrapping it with something more durable before you install it. Re-wrapping a new harness will increase it's lifespan.

 

Ray at Malloy Mazda told me that he reused his exhaust gaskets. But he also said that they have to be in good shape. My exhaust gaskets
are in good shape with 44k miles on them. They are still silver colored. Do you reuse them?

 

i wouldn't.

 

i wouldnt reuse the gaskets,its better just 2 get new ones so u dont have to take it apart again if it leaks

 

Yes. You can use a wire brush to clean them and reuse them.

 

I reuse exhaust gaskets all the time.

 

I've been wondering if there are any pitfalls to look out for when reinstalling my 13B engine. First, I'd raise the tranny as much as possible. Then, as I move the engine backwards, I'd use the transmission bolts as guides to align the engine with the transmission. Finally, I'd feed the tranny shaft into the pilot bearing. Of course, with the pressure plate installed on the flywheel my view will be obstructed. But as I move the engine toward the the jacked up tranny, will the engine mount studs clear the frame? Do you think a load leveler would be needed?

Thanks,
Keith

 

Needed? No. Will it help? Yes. If you are doing this without help, then a load leveler will be invaluable.

 

I am assuming your vacuum lines, check valves, and solenoids are all in good shape? If they aren't there is no better time than now to replace them.
You could also consider replacing all your remaining hoses for coolant and fuel. I did this when I rebuilt my engine.
This is also a good time to 'spruce up' your engine bay, get rid of any rust or missing paint and reprime and repaint it.
How is your radiator? Cooling fans? I would look at ALL this stuff whilst you have the engine out and fix what is needed now.

 

+1 on replacing your coolant hoses and checking the solenoids. There's nothing more annoying that problems that show up soon after an engine installation.

Also, one way of engaging the engine with the transmission is to jack the transmission as high as possible, within 1/2" of the tunnel. As you shoehorn the engine into place, try to match the angle as you're bringing them together. That should help the mounts just clear the subframe. As you bring the engine toward the transmission pay particular attention to the retaining circlip/cage assembly as it tends to get knocked out by the transmission input shaft. Also, make sure you grease up the pilot bearing at the end of the eccentric shaft and check the seal. If the seal looks suspect, you may want to replace it. Be careful when you slide the engine onto the input shaft and try to keep them as concentric as possible. It's quite easy to damage the pilot bearing seal with the input shaft if they're misaligned.

 

^The last few times I've been involved with installing an engine we did something similar. It's always gone smooth, but you absolutely need a leveler and at least two people IMO.

*If it's not too late, use new exhaust nuts with plenty of high-temp anti-seize.
*A little soapy water...or just soap around the engine harness boot so you don't fight it too much getting it back in to the firewall hole.

 

The Mazda Manual recommends "Mori White TA #2 Or Equivilant Moybdenum Grease" for the contact points of the clutch. Would hi temp disc brake grease due?

 

Doh!, forget it. This link seems to answer my question.

 

I tested all of my solenoids with 7psi compressed air and 12V. The Double Throttle Control Solenoid didn't work. I just bought it this summer too. All the other solenoids are original. Unlike the original solenoids this new solenoid would barely pass any air out it's rear outlet. Therefore, I took this defective solenoid out and sprayed WD40 into its ports. Then, I shook it around alittle and applied 12V. Now it worked. I would hear clicks and notice that the air was traveling out the correct ports. But that little filter piece was still clogged. This was the only solenoid with a clogged filter. Do you think that this black filter being clogged caused my new Double Throttle Control Solenoid to stick?

Thank You,
Keith

 

In the last 10 years, I have installed 3 engines with one recently. So let me give you my answers:


I have 2 tiny scratches on my flywheel. I can catch my finger nail on them. How do I remove them?

- Use a dress up wheel on an air powered buffer and buff it smooth.

Given this engine is factory new, what is a good break in procedure?


First 50 miles, change oil.

First 500 miles, 3000-4000 rpm, no boost. change oil.

500-1000; up to 6000; change oil.

1000 miles, open it up and enjoy.

My turbo left a couple of ounces of oil in the intercooler. But it meets the 10-6-10 boost pattern. Is it normal for a turbo to blow oil spray throughtout the intake tubes?

Yes, it's normal.
How else can you check for wear on the two turbos other than looking at the boost pattern?

- Wiggle the compressor wheels radially with respect to the longitudinal axis of the wheel. If the blades touch the housing, your turbo is probably no good. If your engine lost an apex seal, you need to remove the housing around the exhaust turbine and inspect the blades. Depending on where you were on boost, you may have broken blades to one or both turbos. Not advisable to run on broken blades because it's unbalanced and will destroy the turbos.

Is it possible to over tax the stock fuel injectors if your car has the factory cat and muffler on it?

- Anything is possible if you have boost over 10 psi. If you are running over 10 psi, run 850s on the primary.

What are the main key parts that I should replace? I already have new oil metering pump lines.

- OMP o-rings, gaskets to oil return lines, gaskets to turbos if these were originals; o-ring to oil level unit; fuel injector diffuser on the injector itself and inside LIM; the oil cooler return lines, the wiring harness.

The Wiring harness (1, 2) is old, dry and cracked. But I don't have any connection issues...yet. Do stiff wires create more resistance than new ones? If I buy a new wiring harness, should I rewrap it with silicone tape?

- Yes, new one runs about $700. I use 3M silicone tape which forms a self-bond. On the hot areas near the firewall, I wrapped them in DEI velcro heat sleeve. Did this 6 years ago and during R&R on the engine, the harness was in great shape.

- Another item that I did was to take DEI heat sleeve, cut out a square shape portion, placed it over the top of the engine where the rat's nest would go over. This protected the solenoids and the ignition coils and the OMP lines from engine heat.

Warning Noob question:
When loose the trigger pickups move side to side alittle. We're talking a fraction of a millimeter. But will this little left to right distance affect timing?

- This would be moot if you bought a new harness.

How do you approach installing a new lower intake gasket? On the bruce Turrentine video he brushes gasket sealer around the intake ports of the LIM. Mazda recommends using molybdenum grease in their directions. What sealant should I use on the lower intake manifold?

- I use Mazda metal gasket without any sealant or grease. If you're concerned, use a copper type sealant that you can brush on.

 

I'd advise you check the solenoids with more than 7 psi of compressed air as well as 12V from your car battery (which allows the solenoid to pull as much current as it needs). If you hear any buzzing, I'd replace the solenoid. The solenoid should be able to clamp and hold its position with no fuss.

I've recently sorted all my spare solenoids and classified them according to holding pressure. Use the strongest ones (12-15 psi) for the turbo control function or anything where accurate pressure diversion is critical. If they're sticky or lazy, use them in less critical, non-pressure locations. I'd invest in new ones at least at locations E and J (arm yourself with the color-coded vacuum diagram that a very thoughtful person posted here a number of years ago) or refer to the vacuum diagram in the FSM to see what I'm talking about. The little filter you're talking about is replaceable - it just pulls off. If another used one is not available, you can remove it and run a hose from the nipple to a mini aftermarket breather.

 

You mean this color vacuum diagram.



Are these little filters for intake or venting? If they are for venting then why do they have a filter built into them?

Also, I sent the same question from above to KDRotary.
Dave Barninger answered:
"Hey Kieth...could very well be the reason for the double throttle sticking...if it cannot vent it would create a mess with double throttle control..greeat find...good job..thanks..dave@KDR"

Seriously, thanks for all of the support for these detailed questions. The answers from this web site are very helpful.

 

The solenoids divert vacuum or pressure and you'll see that the filter is on the opposite nipple on some of them. That allows them to function as normally open or normally closed. The filter is used as a noise suppressor on some of them when venting pressure but it can also be used to vent a vacuum-operated actuator like the double-throttle system. In that case, a small amount of ambient air would enter the system through the filter to fill the vacuum.

 

On the first start, I'm going to crank the engine without the fuel relay to build up oil pressure. But will the metering oil lines get primed with oil during this cranking too? Also, I can't imagine how many people have tightened their OMP bolts without aligning the metal OMP tab with this slot on the engine. I tried to turn that slot with my thumb but no dice. What's it connected too? Isthis slot turned externally by the OMP or internally by the engine? What is that ground out cavern that is next to that slot? This cavern leads to nothing and caused me alittle panic when I mounted the OMP. After the OMP is mounted some of this ground out area goes above the OMP. Therefore, I was concerned that the engine was machined wrong.

Thanks,
Keith

 

On every engine build I pull the OMP cylinder outward to make sure that the OMP interfaces correctly with it. You can rotate the metal tab on the OMP itself to make sure it lines up with the female indentation on the cylinder. The cylinder meshes with the OMP gear on the front stack, that's why it won't turn..... it turns with the eccentric shaft.

Pull the EGI fuse, which disables spark. It's located by the battery, pink 30 amp fuse, should be in the middle of a row of them. This will allow you to build oil pressure in the system before starting the new build.