I can't explain the machining of that dead-end port, but it's apparently normal. Best guess is that it's a carry over from the FC OMP...which was a different design. At any rate, my motor (original) had the same thing...and two other FD motors I've been involved with had it as well. The important thing is a good seal with that 'O' ring.

 

Anyone ever attach their manifolds and turbo with a regular socket wrench? If so did everything work out? I've used torque wrenches twice on two different cars. The first time I was left with a loose intake manifold that created vacuum leaks. The second time using a torque wrench on my Rx7 the stud broke. So the debate continues. I prefer to tighten everything till I know it's tight. Meaning that if I go any further I may damage something.

Thanks,
Keith

 

I always run a thread tap and thread die to clean out the threads on both the stud and nut. Always use high-temperature nickel based grease on the threads so they don't seize or gall. Then torque to somewhere in the range given by the FSM.

 

Ok here's another question:
I'm doing the Ohms test on the crank angle sensors(CAS's). As you can see in the picture the manual shows that I should be getting a resistance measurement between .95 and 1.25 Ohms. But neither CAS gives any resistance reading. It's like I'm not even touching the probes to anything. Both CAS's are showing that they are "open". I thought that the 0 readings for resistance on these CAS's were caused by my meter. So I retested a couple my solenoids. They showed the correct ohms. Also, testing these CAS's for continuity doesn't cause my meter to "beep" either. Low compression was the reason I pulled my engine. But otherwise my engine ran fine. After I removed these CAS's, I kept them both in a bag with their 10mm nuts. Until I removed them these 10mm nuts were stuck to the CAS's for week or so. Would these 10mm nuts stuck to the CAS's have caused them to get messed up? Is this resistance test in the manual unreliable?

Thanks again,
Keith

 

Doh!
I'm multimeter illiterate. I moved the range dial on the multimeter and got 1.03. I need a multimeter that "autoranges". I still don't understand why there is no beep for continuity. I guess the same reason why there isn't continuity on the intake air temperature sensor.

 

Those are crush nuts. If you tap them out then they won't pinch the thread on the stud.

 

Just thought this video might help someone. The only information I found about how to test the wastegate was in the manual.
Had to move quick to keep the video under a certain upload size.

 

Ok so I'm going to port my wastegate. Then I see this big crack(1,2).My turbo has only 44k miles on it. Do I need to get this crack welded before porting?

Thanks,

 

Forget it. I got the answer about the wastegate cracks here.

I ported my wastegate today while I was snowed in.
Porting before and after.

Couldn't have done the porting or even known what it's good for without this web site.