synchronic

My apologies in advance if this is inappropriate for this forum

I want to let you guys know that there is now a new Fuel Pressure Regulator might be a direct bolt-on to the fuel rail for the FD and even the Gen2. I can't seem to get a hold of an OEM FPR to measure against. This unit already bolts to the Miata, and has a pretty good chance of bolting up to the FD. If you have an OEM fpr you could sell, or kind enough to measure, please let me know.


It has the following features:

*Direct Bolt-On to the factory of aftermarket fuel rail with no additional fuel connections
*Piston-based actuator without a diaphragm to fail
*Re-buildable with new seals
*Elimination of diaphragm reduces noise and pulsation in the fuel rail
*Will support over 1000+ HP
*Interchangeable bypass orifices to accomodate upgraded higher flow fuel pumps
*Adjustable static fuel pressure via a turn screw
*Dedicated Port for 1:1 ratio per pound of boost
*Boost-only chamber for a total of 12:1 ratio only if needed.
*Infinitely adjustable rising rate ratio from 1:1 to 12:1
*Retain fuel pressure in rail, so that you don't have to prime the fuel pump on the next startup
*Sealed chamber for direct injection of Nitrous to raise fuel pressure. Partioned from vacuum and fuel.



More info can be found here : Synchronic FPR

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I've seen that around - pretty slick! Space would be a problem on the RX-7, as the stock FPR is buried in there pretty well.

Dale

synchronic

This doesn't actually stick up that much more than the OEM piece on the MX-5 for instance. We finally finished the production adapter that adds a nipple to the SC001 so that it would be a direct bolt-on for the Mazdas, Nissans and Toyotas.

It isn't buried under the intake, is it? That would make it tough for adjustments.

maxcooper

I'll send you an FD fuel rail for free that you don't need to return. PM me with the address you want it sent to.

-Max

maxcooper

The end of the fuel rail may be accessible between the firewall and the upper intake manifold (UIM). It isn't right out in the open, but you might still be able to adjust without removing anything. That might be best anyway, to keep people from messing with it. Is there any way to lock the setting (jam nut) to keep busy hands from changing the setting?

-Max

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You really shouldn't have to mess with it much. Once you set your base fuel pressure, which can be done with the upper intake manifold off and the fuel pump jumpered on, you're done. The rising rate aspects of the FPR probably wouldn't be used, or at least I hope people wouldn't use a hack like that on an FD .

The area where the FPR is located is close to the firewall, main wiring harness, and tranny bellhousing. It totally looks like it could bolt to the fuel rail, I'd just be worried about an interference problem.

Just dug through my pics - the air control valve plumbing looks to be an interference issue. The arrow is pointing to the FPR.

Dale

synchronic

That FPR diameter looks even bigger than the diameter of the Synchronic FPR. I can verify once I get Max's OEM rail.

Vertical interference with that hardline that goes to hose is what concerns me, but for the most part, those kind of things can easily be moved out of the way. even if it is temporarily.

There is a lock nut on the static fuel pressure adjustment. Most FI guys won't use the 12:1 port, so that extra fitting could be taken off. However, some may elect to use it for Nitrous pressure to raise fuel pressure when they're on the bottle. This is hokey as well, but I'll throw it out there because I'm amazed by how many people (including me when I was 18) just turn up the boost and don't do anything about fuel, but you could put a delay valve in there so that 12:1 or lower doesn't kick in until a given boost pressure.

synchronic

Update- Tim Richards of Speed Force Racing in San Diego was nice enough to let me check out some cars in his shop. I found out that the FPR is on the back, passenger's side of the engine bay right next to the firewall. It is a little bit of a bitch, especially if you strip the OEM (philips????, why Denso, Why??) screw.

But I am glad to report that the Synchronic FPR bolted straight onto the FD fuel rail. It cleared everything. It is even easy to get to the idle adjustment screw to adjust idle. You can also easily get to the ratio adjustment screw if you are using the ratio to back off really large injectors, or need enrichment for more boost. The boost port that you can use for nitrous is also easily accessible.

There is now a bolt-on fpr for the FD! I'm still going to need that fuel rail from Max because I might design a fuel rail with an integrated FPR, considering how hard it is to get to the OEM FPR on the FD. Thank you guys for all the feedback.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

That's excellent! Are the adjustments possible to get to with the intake manifold on the car, or does it need to be pulled to adjust things? Did you get a chance to snap pics of it mounted on the car?

This makes for a nice option for setting up fuel pressure. Good stuff!

Dale

synchronic

Dale- I didn't snap a pic. I might go back to snap a pic. But nothing needs to be removed to make adjustments to idle. Just stand to the side of the passenger side fender and you should be able to reach right in and make an adjustment. I might go back to try to snap a pic.

I don't think most FD guys will use the 12:1 ratio capable of the Synchronic unit, only the 1:1 chamber. But if you are running a dry shot of nitrous, you can use the 12:1 port as a dedicated port for nitrous pressure. You can basically raise the fuel pressure to compensate for a dry shot.

Matt Hey

Was there an adaptor used for the RX-7? Are all Synchronic FPR's (e.g. for different model cars) the same?

How about you guys make a bolt on replacement Fuel Pulsation Damper. Many cars use the Denso unit so a replacement would work on many cars. RX-7 owners have problems with the FPDs leaking, deteriorating with heat and the screw backing out of them, sometimes after just a couple of years. You could use your scaled down piston-based actuator design if it works well at dampening and is more reliable than a diaphragm as you say (good selling point). If you made a reliable bolt on FPD for the RX-7 and could keep the street price in the $100 range then I would bet you would sell hundreds in the first year alone to RX-7 owners. You could probably do a group buy or take deposits at a special introductory price to help with production startup costs. The only problem I can see is that the space is very limited where the FPD is located (more so than the FPR). The only other competition is the Moroso FPD, and if it were an easy drop in, every other RX-7 owner would have one.

It's good to see a company that is getting out, listening to the public and customers and testing their products. I hope to hear more about any RX-7 products on this forum. Thanks.

No Cones

Any updates on this? Anyone running one?

maxcooper

I think the conclusion was that it did fit the FD.

-Max

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

or when you just upgrade your fuel system use the aeormotive fpr... it has a built in pulsation detoning device. so you can ditch the terrible mazda part!!!

No Cones

Actually, that's the kinda info I'd like to find-out about re. this unit. I'm having a difficult time contacting the mfg. Does anyone know if this unit also serves as a pulsation dampener?

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

i would buy the aeromotive fpr. in this thread we confirmed the built in pulsation device https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...6&page=2&pp=15

maybe even post in there your question about the re since its directly related to your question at hand. hope i somewhat help.

warick101

I thought this was interesting since I own a 90 Miata too, so I did some searching. I found the one that fits the RX-7 (I think). It's the SC002 model number according to these guys:
http://www.streetrays.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id/10752

Ledfoot

iTrader: (1)

I email the manufacturer asking what the FD part number is...here's thier reply...

The part number would be SC001A. Don't forget the A at the end, that is the kit that included the adapter for the FD. You can also get an SC001 and SC001.1A, which is the fpr and adapter kit separately.