BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I purchased a shortblock from a vendor on this forum. They will remain nameless since I havn't heard back from him yet.

Basically, I bought this block with the promise of very good compression and no issues.

I got it running yesterday after a solid week of building the block up. Also let me add with BRAND NEW gaskets all around which cost $$$$$$$ and are one time use.

So far, the compression part is holding up... 430mmhg of vaccum on a ported engine is pretty good.


Here is the bad part. It's loosing coolant. It's not smoking white, but every time I turn the car off, there is a cup 1/2 of water missing. I did the "champaigne" test and it's not looking good. Tiny bubbles rising to the surface.

I am going to be pressure testing the block to confirm that the seals are shot.

To clarify, I have only driven this car twice and didn't let the temps get above 95c.



What to do?

Am I fuqed? I sent a PM to the vedor stating my issues/concerns and expectaions.

JStrib

iTrader: (6)

Sorry to hear it. Good luck with straightening everything out.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Hate to hear it, let me know if I can help in someway if by chance they refund you. Hate to hear the bad news, if you bought it used hopefully this will be a warning to others buying used blocks, it is a gamble either way. Not saying a "new" rebuilt engine couldnt have issues either. Hopefully they will make it right if it is indeed a coolant seal issue.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Well they are a reputable vendor on the forums. Even people on BCRotary said not to worry if I bought the engine from this person. I know it can't really be their fault but I hope they will work with the situation. I basically just spent all of my savings to get this car running and insured it yesterday. I literally am living check to check now... what to they say about FD's? Financial Disaster?

Don't get me wrong I love my car and will never sell it, but damn it's been 11 months and it finally got running and now this.

FML

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Well maybe they will work with you on getting it rebuilt, a coolant seal failure is the cheapest fix.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

well I'm PMing back and forth now. I am going to do a few more tests as well as pressure test the system.

Leave it at that for now. I will update when I have news on the condition of the engine.

baggedoutmazda

any possibility that the system is just air locked & taking more coolant after a few shut downs? i just finished a v-mount set up & it took a couple of hours to get it burped good enough to drive.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

i'm hoping that is the case.

I am renting a pressure tester tommorow.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Used engines (including J-specs) are just too risky to install without rebuilding first. Our base rebuild is $1500, includes all new o-rings and seals, just let us know if you want to schedule it in...

http://www.banzai-racing.com/engine_rebuild_main.htm

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Sounds like a pinched coolant o-ring. Easy mistake to make if you are not careful assembling the motor. Sometimes it takes a while to get all the air out of the system. It takes longer if you have no ast and bypass the throttle body coolant. Feel the radiator. Is the entire core getting hot evenly? Do you have heat inside the cabin?

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I have the AST bypassed as well at the TB coolant.

The rad is even. It's 35c here so I haven't had the heat on yet, but I'll check it out. Is there any trick to bleeding an ASTless car?

The car dosen't smoke either, and after a drive yesterday I didn't go above 87c on the PFC in stop/go traffic with 55c ambients. It's looking more and more like the system is just being a bitch and not wanting to bleed properly.

I will go for a drive tonite for a bit and see if anymore coolant is missing

mr.veilsidewankel

iTrader: (1)

well, if your coolantseals are gone, the car will be a bitch to start whan the engine is hot (more so when it has been shut off for about 10-15min)
allso, the owerflow reservoir will fill upp and dump coolant on the ground
and temps will climb wery fast if you boost the car
or on hillclimb

Japan2LA

iTrader: (256)

Put the AST back on.......
Why are you trying to run without it?
Get all of the air out of the coolant system... and you will be fine..

Blown coolant seal motors overheat like crazy.. instantly, smoke like crazy and are hard to start...
Not the case here

BTW: This shortblock is from me.... and does not need a rebuild...

Had New housings and a mild streetport done in Japan..plus all the gaskets and seals where new...

fd3rew

iTrader: (1)

It's going to take a bit to get all the air out. The first time you run it you have air pockets everywhere in the system. Don't forget the heater core too. Get the car hot and run the heat to get rid of air in that loop of the system.