Original symptoms before new install:

- Air pump was clicking and air pump pulley would pause ever 5-10 seconds
- Oil light, Temp light, Battery light all on
- Car occasionally died in reverse
- Sometimes after using it on hot days with AC and parking then starting will not start for 30 seconds

So, installed a new alternator tonight, everything seems to have gone in successfully. Everything reconnected that should be with one minor complication; when facing the alternator, the left side where the long bolt goes through, the bracket on the back with the hole the bolt slips through, right next and sort of below that bracket there is what looks to be some sort of sensor, I barely touched it and it broke. The inside of it is completely crusted and doesnt even look functional so I doubt it contributing to the car not starting but thought I should mention it. Looks like it connects to the cooling system?

When I try to start the car after a few tries it finally starts but the idle goes up and doesnt hold then drops and dies. Battery from what I can see seems to be 100% ok. Thoughts?, I have searched and read threads similar so im sort of getting an idea but cant really pinpoint anything yet.

Also, the tension of the belt, would this cause the car not to stay running if too loose or tight?

EDIT: forgot to mention when we were taking off the old alternator we forgot to unplug the battery and it did cause a spark when unplugged. Then immediately unplugged it, this was on the old one.

Thanks

 

That sensor thing that fell apart is a coolant thermal sensor. You need to have that connected properly otherwise the ECU does not get the input it needs to let the engine run properly. Did the wiring crumble or the back of the sensor itself?

 

That spark would have been a cool ark light if the 50 amp fuse next to the battery didn't blow.

Those fuses are "bolted" in. I would check them all. Located next to the battery, not in the passenger compartment

 

The sensor it self, its like it broke in half and the insides look like pure corrosion, sort of chalky, its really hard for me to imagine it was in working order the way it looks.

I am wondering about the fuses myself, figured that may be a problem. I will also get a multimeter to check the new alt. as it could be bad, never know.

 

I'm guessing that has been the source of your problems. It sounds alot like the condition my sensor reached before I replaced it. They do corrode-out like that.

 

That sensor monitors coolant temprature,,, it affects fuel ratios based on the operating temprature of the engine,,,,especially cold starting,,,,i think this will probably be the source of all your problems,, (also did the new alternator get rid of your warning lights on thee dashboard,,,,oil and coolant ?)

 

Original symptoms before new install:

- Air pump was clicking and air pump pulley would pause ever 5-10 seconds
- Oil light, Temp light, Battery light all on
- Car occasionally died in reverse
- Sometimes after using it on hot days with AC and parking then starting will not start for 30 seconds

So, installed a new alternator tonight, everything seems to have gone in successfully. Everything reconnected that should be with one minor complication; when facing the alternator, the left side where the long bolt goes through, the bracket on the back with the hole the bolt slips through, right next and sort of below that bracket there is what looks to be some sort of sensor, I barely touched it and it broke. The inside of it is completely crusted and doesnt even look functional so I doubt it contributing to the car not starting but thought I should mention it. Looks like it connects to the cooling system?

When I try to start the car after a few tries it finally starts but the idle goes up and doesnt hold then drops and dies. Battery from what I can see seems to be 100% ok. Thoughts?, I have searched and read threads similar so im sort of getting an idea but cant really pinpoint anything yet.

Also, the tension of the belt, would this cause the car not to stay running if too loose or tight?
You can really screw up the ECU when you go shorting things out. Hopefully it's just the sensor that fell apart. It takes such a short time to disconnect the ground on the battery, and troubleshoot electrical gremlins can be so frustrating. Can you get your hands on another ECU to try ??? and disconect the ground before working on that.

 

Well I took it to a local shop and they have been running diagnostics. He says the crankshaft sensor is having trouble communicating with the ecu I believe?. Sounds like this is due to the short as CantGoStraight mentioned.

 

Is there someone near you that has a stock ECU you can swap out ? ? ? I would suspect the ECU before I would the CAS (crank angle sensor) if it turns out you need one (ECU) I have my original that came out of my car when I installed the Pettit remapped ECU. It's from a non-California 5 speed. Jack