Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

well im in the process of doing 13B-RE GT35R single turbo on my FD.


well im sorta stuck in a rut.

whether or not should i use the 20b subframe to get my RE to bolt in to the FD.

ive done the search, but i am not pleased, to many questions left unanswered.


ive read and seen pics of people making there own custom motor mounts,

but there is no specs of the mounts and no pics of them.

i was just curious as to if any one has done the 20b subframe swap on the fd

or if you have any pics of them custom mounts.


basically im just trying to find the best way to mount my RE into the FD.


http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-23-...equipment.aspx ( 20b fd subframe)


thanks in advance.

-jaime

smog-guy707

iTrader: (11)

dude... go REW

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

why do you want an RE over the REW?

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

The quick answer is yes, you can use the 20B subframe to install the 13B-RE, but it is not needed. The better way to install the RE in the FD is to drill and tap the rear plate and use the factory FD mounts. It really makes no sense to mess with the steering rack position to install the 13B-RE, which is what the 20B subframe will do.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

Why go to such hassle to install an older motor into a car that has had basically the same motor just with a newer design already made for it?

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

hahaha naw...

because im rebuilding my RE, and my Fd doesnt have a motor.

plus the intake runners are a lot bigger, and the manifolds seem to be a bit better designed. IMO.

yea it seems like it is the easiest thing to do.

i thought i can tap into the rear iron to install the REW mounts but i was comparing my REW rear iron to my RE rear iron. and there is no way i can tap into my RE iron.

ill take pictures so you guys can see what im talking about.

basically when i bought my FD it had everything but the motor. and i was/am in the process of building my RE. so i dont want to give up on my RE build to just do a basic REW.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

You should have plenty of material to work with:

FD rear



20B, which is the same as the 13b-re, notice it is the same casting as the FD, just not drilled and tapped

silverfdturbo6port

iTrader: (26)

the REW is a great motor and so is the RE dont get me wrong but the RE exhaust is way more restricting than the REW. the intake plenum on the RE is a better design for torque but the REW intake is better for top end power. the re intake primary runners on the plenum are separated from the secondary's thus not flowing as much as it is capable of but you can cut the plenum in half and take the divider out. and yes the runners on the RE are bigger the primarys are the same size as the secondary's till you get to the intake port the primary intake port is smaller. it dont really matter what block you go with but the REW has more parts available if something breaks. both of these blocks have made over 700hp on stock ports so really its just your call

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

Use the irons and intake manifolds from the RE and use rotor housings from the REW....

This will give you RE's big intake ports and runners, and you get the REW's larger exhaust ports.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

^ my RE iron does not look like the 20b rear iron you have pictured, i have a RE from a 91 Cosmo. i also read some were that there was a difference in irons from 92 and up. which doesnt allow you to tap the rear iron. sorry i dont any pics up, but i will show you what i mean that i dont have space to tap the rear iron as i had originally planned.



yea ive read that the REW was better designed for top end power. im sticking with my RE because if i go with the REW , i feel like the fun will be taken out of this build. since not to many FDs owners do RE swaps.

i only plan on making 380-400 on my GT35R.

and i have a large streetport on my RE as well.

yea, the exhaust sleeves on the Cosmo are really horrible.

im using my s5 t2 rotors(same as REW and RE), RE irons and manifold, S5 t2 housings (same sleeves as FD).


i did what i could on my RE to get it to make good power considering it has a large street port and what i listed above.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Then your easiest solution is to install the 20B subframe. Any custom brackets using the stock subframe are going to lift the engine too high and you will have a big problem with the RE oilpan

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

heres some quick pics......


RE



REW

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Since you have it apart already, you could source a later RE rear iron and drill it, or you could do a ton of porting to the REW iron.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

i rather try to source out a later RE iron..

thanks for the info.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Michel in FL used the RE motor on his FD iirc. He had a thread somewhere but I forget his user name. He was the one who had Carlos Lopez do his "scalloped rotors". Might want to search here and the Single Turbo section for scalloped rotors and I'm sure you'll find it if you want.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Source the new rear iron, it would blow my mind to think someone would pay the $1k+ for the 20b subframe just to have a RE :why: Different strokes for different folks I guess.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

thanks ill look into that more.
yea seriously. as much as i didnt want to, but that was an option of mine.


but since Banzai cleared it up for me. all i gotta do is find a new rear iron..

its just not going to be easy to find the right rear iron....

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Shouldn't be too hard contact Japan2La, might be a little pricey, but maybe you can work out some sort of trade

Japan2LA

iTrader: (256)

I dont have it...

Buy it new
Less than $500.00

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

were can i buy it new?, just by going to mazda?

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

It is $412.20 for a new one http://mazdatrix.com/b1.htm

Bottom of the page PN 10-C50D-NF01

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

^^ thank you BANZAI!!!!
seriously, i really appreciate, the fact your helping me out with this info.

looks like im going to go to mazdatrix on monday and buy me a new rear iron.

thanks for all the feedback and help.


thanks again

-jaime

Beast From The East

TO4S with BRE - 400 rwhp with good low end grunt out of low speed corners (track only car, was a street car which is why I went with the long runners, more torque).

Will go to 450 rwhp with another couple of pounds of boost once I get the race rubber mounted. 4 wheel drifting through high speed corners is getting a bit hairy. Running 16 to 17 lbs of boost now on mild race gas (100 RM), will go to 18 to 20 on 103 or C16 gas once the rubber and wing are on.

Beast

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

NIICE, yea i plan to run a GT35R, i only plan on making any were from 380-400RWHP.

Internal wise ive only done a large street. and some throttle body modding.

i plan on tracking the FD and maybe drive it on the weekends.. etc...



btw do you have any pics of your set up and any more info on any specific things i should swap from the REW to the RE in order to get it running correctly.


thanks in advance.

-jaime

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

To make for an easy install use the FD front, oil pickup tube and oil pan. Also use the FD water pump housing.

We have a streetported 13B-RE with GT35R in our 91 Vert, no dyno numbers yet just got the engine broken-in, but it is a blast to drive. Our build wont help you with the FD install however. http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm