Need Recent Purchase Order for FD (93)
#1
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Need Recent Purchase Order for FD (93)
Ok, well I recently totalled my R1...long story short, basically it skidded out when I downshifted and it skidded perpendicular with the windy road and smacked nearly head on to the rock face at about 10-15 mph. Damage wasn't that bad (air bag didn't even deploy) but I felt it would be better to just let em total it out due to the numerous other financial considerations...
(Even the body shop was like 'well it looks like there isn't a single body panel that isn't damaged' and this was pre-existing...NOT from the accident).
Anyways here's where you can help me, my insurance company (USAA) looked at the car, figged it was worth 15k in pristine condition, had 6k in pre-existing damage and then gave me 9k + taxes and whatnot and I got a check cut for 9,700+. Now this isn't bad considering I got like 700+ like 8 months ago from them when somebody keyed it (I only paid like 8,600 for the car). However, I *KNOW* the car is worth more than 15k in pristine condition. It was a 1993 R1 with about 83,000 miles on it (original engine) no body mods or performance mods except mp, dp and exhaust. The Mazda dealer right by me had a 1993 Base (64k miles) and they were asking like 18,800 and the thing sold in like 2 weeks. However, they're stonewalling me when I try to get them to hook me up with the purchase order.
My insurance company doesn't care about what the Kelly Blue Book value is or what other dealers are asking, they want to see actual sales of this car and what the price was. They told me if I could find at least 1 purchase order that they would bump up the value of their estimate of the car in perfect condition....sooooo I'm offering whoever can find me a purchase order of a recent sale of a 93 (Base or R1 or PEG, as long as it was mostly stock and not modded or CYM) a piece of the pie. If the sale was in California that would help too, but I don't think it's that important. But I would need something that shows like the purchase / sale price and the car make/model/year/etc. Plz help a former FD'er out! I'm guessing I could easily get another 2-3k from the insurance company with proof, so I'd be willing to hook you up with 20% of that (if 2 people help I'll split that 2 ways, so you'd each get 10% of whatever MORE I get from the insurance company). Scan it in and email em to me (JPG format plz) and yes you can photoshop off your name/other confidential stuff. Important info would be like date, location, all that kinda stuff.
My email address is boden@yahoo.com
(Even the body shop was like 'well it looks like there isn't a single body panel that isn't damaged' and this was pre-existing...NOT from the accident).
Anyways here's where you can help me, my insurance company (USAA) looked at the car, figged it was worth 15k in pristine condition, had 6k in pre-existing damage and then gave me 9k + taxes and whatnot and I got a check cut for 9,700+. Now this isn't bad considering I got like 700+ like 8 months ago from them when somebody keyed it (I only paid like 8,600 for the car). However, I *KNOW* the car is worth more than 15k in pristine condition. It was a 1993 R1 with about 83,000 miles on it (original engine) no body mods or performance mods except mp, dp and exhaust. The Mazda dealer right by me had a 1993 Base (64k miles) and they were asking like 18,800 and the thing sold in like 2 weeks. However, they're stonewalling me when I try to get them to hook me up with the purchase order.
My insurance company doesn't care about what the Kelly Blue Book value is or what other dealers are asking, they want to see actual sales of this car and what the price was. They told me if I could find at least 1 purchase order that they would bump up the value of their estimate of the car in perfect condition....sooooo I'm offering whoever can find me a purchase order of a recent sale of a 93 (Base or R1 or PEG, as long as it was mostly stock and not modded or CYM) a piece of the pie. If the sale was in California that would help too, but I don't think it's that important. But I would need something that shows like the purchase / sale price and the car make/model/year/etc. Plz help a former FD'er out! I'm guessing I could easily get another 2-3k from the insurance company with proof, so I'd be willing to hook you up with 20% of that (if 2 people help I'll split that 2 ways, so you'd each get 10% of whatever MORE I get from the insurance company). Scan it in and email em to me (JPG format plz) and yes you can photoshop off your name/other confidential stuff. Important info would be like date, location, all that kinda stuff.
My email address is boden@yahoo.com
#4
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I bought mine in basically stock form for $16900, that was almost 9 months ago though. It is a 93 R1 BB and I bought it in Oklahoma and it had about 86,000 on it. It had a new engine though but that should not effect the retail price. I bought it from an individual so I don't have a PO from a dealership. Good Luck finding one that was bought at a dealership.
Scott
Scott
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I got mine last April for 17300, but mine is a 93 touring model with 50,000 miles on it. Got it from a dealer up north of me, it was stock and in really good shape. I guess you can tell why I got it.
#6
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ok ok, ^ that should work if u can scan it in and send me the jpgs. as long as it is a 1993 (any model, since mine is an R1) and not CYM (the other colors shouldnt matter, mine was a VR R1...the insurance company isn't going to try and analyze production numbers of difft R1s).
as long as the mileage isn't too low it should work id say like >= 55k (the premium for really low mileage is high for the car...shoot i know somebody with a 93 R1 with like mileage in the mid 20s!!)
so start scanning and emailing (the purchase order). if it wasnt a dealership and you have a contract that is somehow guaranteed/notarized/whatever that should work as well
as long as the mileage isn't too low it should work id say like >= 55k (the premium for really low mileage is high for the car...shoot i know somebody with a 93 R1 with like mileage in the mid 20s!!)
so start scanning and emailing (the purchase order). if it wasnt a dealership and you have a contract that is somehow guaranteed/notarized/whatever that should work as well
#7
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I guess you don't care that the car will now be classified as "Salvaged" and therefore not insureable? Which means no lending institution would make a loan for the car.
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#9
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ok, got one purchase order so far (for 16,000)...would like at least 1 or 2 more before I fax it over to my insurance company (to show him a bunch all at once) and thus get the 15k bumped up...
#10
built my own engine
i don't agree with what you're doing, you paid less than what they rewarded you, and now you're trying to get $15k out of the insurance company? your car isn't worth $15k with the orig motor @ 83k miles, your turbos+motor is almost limping....
it's people like you that drive the insurance rates up for the rest of us
it's people like you that drive the insurance rates up for the rest of us
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Originally posted by 93BlackFD
i don't agree with what you're doing, you paid less than what they rewarded you, and now you're trying to get $15k out of the insurance company? your car isn't worth $15k with the orig motor @ 83k miles, your turbos+motor is almost limping....
it's people like you that drive the insurance rates up for the rest of us
i don't agree with what you're doing, you paid less than what they rewarded you, and now you're trying to get $15k out of the insurance company? your car isn't worth $15k with the orig motor @ 83k miles, your turbos+motor is almost limping....
it's people like you that drive the insurance rates up for the rest of us
you go ahead and book it out and tell us its not worth every penny of 15k
#12
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ok ...PLZ STFU
this is not the place to thread crap. but regardless, u know almost no details about what happened and youre trying to tell me im in the wrong??? whatever dude. i have nothing wrong with the insurance company telling me that the pre-existing damage is 6k (thats what the estimates were that i received before wrecking) but 15k for an R1 in perfect physical shape? plz. my motor was running fine too btw...mostly cuz i didnt RAPE THE CRAP out of it (warmed it up, cooled it down, rarely got on it hard or had it rev past 5k). just cuz i managed to get a deal on the car doesn't mean i should have to get shafted. u wanna know who the biggest crooks in the world are? insurance companies, credit card companies and used car salesmen.
this is not the place to thread crap. but regardless, u know almost no details about what happened and youre trying to tell me im in the wrong??? whatever dude. i have nothing wrong with the insurance company telling me that the pre-existing damage is 6k (thats what the estimates were that i received before wrecking) but 15k for an R1 in perfect physical shape? plz. my motor was running fine too btw...mostly cuz i didnt RAPE THE CRAP out of it (warmed it up, cooled it down, rarely got on it hard or had it rev past 5k). just cuz i managed to get a deal on the car doesn't mean i should have to get shafted. u wanna know who the biggest crooks in the world are? insurance companies, credit card companies and used car salesmen.
Originally posted by 93BlackFD
i don't agree with what you're doing, you paid less than what they rewarded you, and now you're trying to get $15k out of the insurance company? your car isn't worth $15k with the orig motor @ 83k miles, your turbos+motor is almost limping....
it's people like you that drive the insurance rates up for the rest of us
i don't agree with what you're doing, you paid less than what they rewarded you, and now you're trying to get $15k out of the insurance company? your car isn't worth $15k with the orig motor @ 83k miles, your turbos+motor is almost limping....
it's people like you that drive the insurance rates up for the rest of us
#13
I bought my '93 R1 in December of 2001 (about 13 months ago). I did not get it at a dealership, got it from an individual from Baltimore. Paid $18,000, it had about 50K on it, and was/still is in perfect condition. Also, it was completely stock, no mods whatsoever. Let me know if this helps, I'm sure I can dig up the bill of sale, etc., to help you out.
#14
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yes this will help. cmon guys, ive only had 1 person send in a scan...you're looking at potentially $400 split between the 2-3 people who send it in just for scanning in a doc and emailing it to me (like 30 mins of ur time including searching for it)
#15
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No matter, how u justify it you are pulling insurance fraud. I pay USAA over $1600 a year to driver my FD as a pleasure vehicle. You're not getting over on the insurance company but you are getting over on your "fellow FDer's" who pay USAA premiums to cover such crap.
Grow up, you admitted that they paid you more than you paid for the car. I could see helping you if you had invested a bucnhg of money in repairs to make it a $15K car.
Grow up, you admitted that they paid you more than you paid for the car. I could see helping you if you had invested a bucnhg of money in repairs to make it a $15K car.
#16
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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This is not insurance fraud!!!!! They told him if he could prove the value to be over 15K they would take it into consideration.....that is all he is doing. I for one am glad they are not rating it by the book, I'd hope if mine ever got totaled my insurace company would give me the option of settling for market value rather than book value.
All he is doing is establishing that it has market value higher than what they said. I'd say that thier 15K is prob pretty close but it could be as high as 17K minus his 6K in damage....for a R1 at least.
Just because you get a good deal on a car doesnt mean anything. The reason they are willing to settle for market value is so he can replace the car with another one in similar condition. Just cause he got a good deal on this one doesnt mean he will on the next one. The market value is basically "replacement value"
Its not like he's making fake bill of sales....that would be insurance fraud. Trying to establish true replacement value is NOT fraud.
STEPHEN
All he is doing is establishing that it has market value higher than what they said. I'd say that thier 15K is prob pretty close but it could be as high as 17K minus his 6K in damage....for a R1 at least.
Just because you get a good deal on a car doesnt mean anything. The reason they are willing to settle for market value is so he can replace the car with another one in similar condition. Just cause he got a good deal on this one doesnt mean he will on the next one. The market value is basically "replacement value"
Its not like he's making fake bill of sales....that would be insurance fraud. Trying to establish true replacement value is NOT fraud.
STEPHEN
#17
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I might be able to dig up my bill of sale also, but it's about 3 years old, if that matters. I bought a mint 93 VR-R1 with 35k miles for $21k. Let me know.
*edit* Trout you are paying $1600 a year for a vehicle classified as a 'pleasure vehicle'? Damn your insurance company is sticking it to you. I pay like $1000/year full coverage with $100/$100 deductable listed as a secondary vehicle.
*edit* Trout you are paying $1600 a year for a vehicle classified as a 'pleasure vehicle'? Damn your insurance company is sticking it to you. I pay like $1000/year full coverage with $100/$100 deductable listed as a secondary vehicle.
Last edited by Scrapiron7; 01-28-03 at 04:45 PM.
#18
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I see your point SPOautos after rereading things. Sorry boden11 for questioning your integrity. Good luck, if you've spent money recently on repairs/restoration those receipts may help also. In 1992, I was hit and his insurance want me to prove my '79 Rx-7 was worth more than $1500 - luckily I had receipts for street port motor and all sorts of mods.
Is the $6K pre-existing from the keying incident when you only got $700 or is the car pretty ragged out?
bircke - welcome to New Orleans insurance premiums (some of the highest in the country), its very easy to sue for medical claims in Louisiana. This is why I get touchy on insurance deals. When I bought my FD and lived in Dallas USAA, it was about $980 a year and when I moved back to New Orleans it was about $2200 a yr but came down fast to $1600 after a year or two. This is with full coverage and high limits for a single 33 yo male with one ticket (70 in 60) that recently raised my premium a little, no accidents in over 10 yrs.
Jack
Is the $6K pre-existing from the keying incident when you only got $700 or is the car pretty ragged out?
bircke - welcome to New Orleans insurance premiums (some of the highest in the country), its very easy to sue for medical claims in Louisiana. This is why I get touchy on insurance deals. When I bought my FD and lived in Dallas USAA, it was about $980 a year and when I moved back to New Orleans it was about $2200 a yr but came down fast to $1600 after a year or two. This is with full coverage and high limits for a single 33 yo male with one ticket (70 in 60) that recently raised my premium a little, no accidents in over 10 yrs.
Jack
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bumpage for 1 last time
only got *1* PO!! cmon people, just email me a scanned in copy of ur Purchase Order to boden@yahoo.com and I'll be able to get some extra $ (which u get a piece of) from insurance. ...plz help (1993 RX-7's only, any model--R1, PEG, base, etc. with mileage up to about 100-110k and price above 15k)
only got *1* PO!! cmon people, just email me a scanned in copy of ur Purchase Order to boden@yahoo.com and I'll be able to get some extra $ (which u get a piece of) from insurance. ...plz help (1993 RX-7's only, any model--R1, PEG, base, etc. with mileage up to about 100-110k and price above 15k)
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