4estRX7

iTrader: (1)

For some reason I cannot get my coolant level to stabilize? I will warm up the car and fill the radiator and drive the car. When I stop it makes all the sounds and then the next day the coolant beep will stay on for about 4 minutes until it gets warmed and the coolant expands. I cannot figure out where air is coming from and I can only determine that the coolant is coming from overflow tank. Any tips or tricks to try?
I also just replaced radiator cap and water pump.

I kind of think I just need to somehow super burp the system but cannot get it to operate correctly.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

With the car cold, remove the filler neck cap. Start the car, and see if you notice any bubbles in the cooling inside the filler neck as the car warms up.

4estRX7

iTrader: (1)

I do not see bubbles... Now what?

4estRX7

iTrader: (1)

should I try the quick o-ring fix?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't unless you want to possibly clog up other coolant passages.

If you aren't getting any smoke at startup, then I would pressure test the system for leaks. If you are seeing coolant on the ground, drain the system and start removing & inspecting your coolant hoses.

4estRX7

iTrader: (1)

I do get some smoke at startup.

DaedelGT

No leaks under the car?

4estRX7

iTrader: (1)

no, just seems to coem from overflow?

spurvo

4est, there are a few threads that describe the symptoms of O-ring failure. As you've entered the cycle of filling at the filler neck, having it pee out the already completely full overflow tank while the car is running, then havint to re-fill the filler neck, it will be a little harder to diagnose the real problem. If it is the O-rings, then the peeing overflow is primarily due to exhaust gases pushing the coolant out of the cooling system, until the engine temp gets high enough to allow coolant expansion to push more coolant out. A test you can try is to pull the hose off your overflow outlet from the AST. This is the little tank that sits attached to the intercooler. Attach a hose to the overflow outlet and place it into a container that is about half full of water. Make sure the container is roughly level with the AST. Start the engine completely cold, and watch the level of the water in the bottle. If it starts to rise before the engine gets "warm" (that is, before the stock gauge reaches the halfway point, or around 160F if you have a gauge that actually does some good!), then you should suspect a blown O-ring, given the other symptoms you describe. Expansion of the coolant alone out the overflow usually doesn't take place until higher temps...

The othe rpossible cause is a pinhole leak in a coolant hose (there are 14, so how could this happen, right?) that allows air to get into the system upon cooldown, rather than drawing coolant back in through the overflow line as the system is designed to do. The easiest thing to do here is get a coolant system pressure tester and test the system's ability to hold pressure, both warm (but not HOT, i.e. don't burn yourself ) and cold.

I agree with Majik about the block weld. I know others have had "success" with this method, but I think filling the turbo coolant passages alone is cause to avoid this band-aid. Rebuild the engine.