4Fun

iTrader: (8)

I adjusted the TPS and disabled the EGR. So now what can I check? After I disabled the EGR and I started it back up when I hold the gas constant it stays there for a second then drops 500k then goes back up to the original rpm. So does that sound like a vaccum leak? Or somthing else? thanks again guys.

Btw at idle it pulls about 12"

spoolage

iTrader: (2)

check your cold start. I was having trouble w/ my idle, and we played w/ the cold start and that fixed it. If its not that, then make sure you have all ur nipples capped off and vaccume lines running where they should be going.

skunks

If at idle your getting only 12in/hg and you dont got a really big port on your engine, you had better check compression. I think your idle problems might be because your engine is popped.

im not sure what you mean by "when I hold the gas constant it stays there for a second then drops 500k then goes back up to the original rpm." could you please clarify?

4Fun

iTrader: (8)

spoolage, what did you adjust or see with the cold start

skunks, I have a very good idea that the engine is in fine order. Its been pulling that in/hg and never had this idle problem for about 1.5 years. What I mean by the idle not holding the rpms is this. I hold the gas to read about 3000 on the tach it holds there for a second and then drops down to 2500 rpms then right back up to 3k. I does that for about all rpms. Thanks for the help

Keep the ideas coming.

spoolage

iTrader: (2)

Check the cold start. Play w/ the crew that controls the idle on the cold start...

mor

Finally someone has the same symptoms as I do. When I let it idle it doesn't jump up and down but like you said, when holding at a steady rpm it does.

I think it's my ISC but haven't checked yet. The reason why is because my idle sticks at 1200 rpm usually...sometimes it'll drop but if I give it gas and let it down it always sticks at 1200 rpm.

What's the cold start? I'll give that a try if it ain't the ISC.

mor

Oh...I disabled my EGR too. I just did the relay fix since my EGR valve's sensor was broken. I didn't remove the EGR and block off tho'. Did you? I might decide to block it off but I don't think it's sticking. What symptoms of EGR sticking?

4Fun

iTrader: (8)

I just capped off the vaccum line for the EGR valve. Its supposed to stay closed when there is no vaccum present but it might be stuck partly open. Anyone know a good way of r&r the EGR valve? I have a brain fart about what a ISC? Were and how can I check it. I guess Ill go check the cold start to see that its coming off of it when the car is warm.

any more thoughts guys
thanks

4Fun

iTrader: (8)

ttt

4Fun

iTrader: (8)

Update... I found out that when I first start the car till it warms up there is no problems. Now my guess is that somthing is stuck open/closed and is causing this issue. I notice that all the valves on the tb are up agianst the stops. When vaccum is applied the valves open and close. One is next to the TPS and the other is on the oppisite side of the TPS..
thanks for the help

poss

iTrader: (5)

At what rpm is your vaccum reading 12?
If that's when it's in the 850rpm range, I'd venture to say that your engine is getting worn, or you atleast have another problem between your throttle body and the combustion chamber.

My car has had low compression and hence, low vaccum, since I bought it (2.5 yrs ago) and it has also had at least a "minor" idle hunt. I have removed all the emissions components and checked everything i can think of and has not changed a thing.

Good luck,
Ryan "I'm down to 11in/hg on a good day"

4Fun

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the feed back it reads 12" around the 850 range but thats when she is fairy warm. In the morning and normal driving its about 14".

When you say a minor hunt how much does it change?

G Goodman

You don't say wether your car is an auto or manual. On the manual cars there is a switch on the clutch pedal that ties into the ecu and the cruise control. If it goes bad the idle will hunt around when the throttle isn't depressed. Mine was bad, after replacing it the idle is solid at about 850 - 900 rpms. The switch is about $12 from the dealer and the part number is 18 - 660B. An easy way to tell if the switch is bad is to put the car in cruise and then push the clutch in. If the rpms shoot up the switch is bad, pushing the clutch in should kill the cruise. Don't know if that helps or not. Good luck.

DaedelGT

nm