Ok, i'm really getting sick of this car... one thing leads to another...

#1, i cannot get the primary rail to go down correctly for ****... any tips? i had to replace the rubber insulators underneath... but it won't seat correctly.

#2, one of the groups of wires that leads to the MOP connection... one of them goes to the MOP.. the other is all frayed and torn up. ANYONE know what this other group of wires is... its Black, Blue, and Yellow.

 

I wish I could help you. I will be replacing my Primaries soon. So I will be watch this thread for some tips and advice. Good luck!

Reagrding number #2 I don't know what the hell the MOP is. I've just never got into reading the shop manual. Maybe this wiring diagram will help ya: http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/3rdgen/manuals/93%20manual/(Z)Wiring_Diagram.pdf

If the link doesn't work click this one for the complete shop manual: http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/index.htm

 

MOP = OMP... or Oil Metering Pump.. sorry some people call it MOP some OMP heh.

 

The primary rail seats very strangely.. Almost doesn't seem to seat. Make sure you have the spacer inbetween the rail and the housing... If not, you will bolt it down at an angle and the fuel will not all be spraying in the holes...

Can't help with the OMP.. Sorry..

 

I believe when I last installed the primary fuel rail, I placed the insulators in the holes first and then brought the fuel rail in over top and seated it in that order. I agree w/ jdhuegel1 that you need to be sure you have the spacer in place. That said, it is a tedious exercise.

As for the OMP, check your shop manual. I thought the OMP was plug-and-play wiring, but it has been a while since I have been in that neighborhood.

 

IIRC, there are two groups of wires for the OMP connection. One of them actually drives the pump, and the other is for the OMP position sensor.

 

ok well my OMP wires are frayed and messed up.. so i disconnected it.. they were laying near the CAS and causing the car to do funny things..car would rev itself up to like 4k and make a weird noise from the CAS area... guess it was interference?

I got the injectors in fine now.. just had to push down a little harder to get the angle correct.

I'm guessing now that my car is flooded.. it spins, but won't actually crank up... just some fuel smelling misty smoke like stuff coming outta the exhaust.. (unburnt fuel)... so i'm guessing i'll have to unflood the engine and hopefully it will crank correctly this time...

 

If you are running the stock ECU, you can't just unplug the OMP. If the ECU detects an OMP error, it will put the car in limp mode and it will run like ***.

 

using a PFC and full non-seq...

 

They are shielded wire. I'd head down to radio shack and pick up some shielded twisted pair and if available some nomex style wrap. Cut further up the wire and splice/resolder/heat shrink.

IIRC, one set is for the CAS (NE) and CAS (G) and the other ones are for the MOP.

http://www.rx7city.com/Manuals/93%20..._EMISSIONS.pdf

 

not up on what IIRC means?

but they are frayed and the wires were touching everywhere...so they were getting current and shorting...

 

IIRC = if I recall correctly.

You need to fix that wiring ASAP.

 

others have said that 1 set of wires off that plug were for the OMP, the other set coming off are the stepper motor for the OMP.

ur link doesn't load...

 

You need Adobe Acrobat Reader for the link.

 

the only wires that were cut were the ones from the OMP harness..would be the same as disconnecting it at the plug... the CAS wires were not affected, but the cut up OMP lines were laying right by the CAS and main pulley's dial.

 

ok well my OMP wires are frayed and messed up.. so i disconnected it.. they were laying near the CAS and causing the car to do funny things..car would rev itself up to like 4k and make a weird noise from the CAS area... guess it was interference?

I got the injectors in fine now.. just had to push down a little harder to get the angle correct.

I'm guessing now that my car is flooded.. it spins, but won't actually crank up... just some fuel smelling misty smoke like stuff coming outta the exhaust.. (unburnt fuel)... so i'm guessing i'll have to unflood the engine and hopefully it will crank correctly this time...

 

damn primaries are still leaking air... can hear it hissing... but moving those frayed wires out of the way and everything cleared up the other problems i was having...

unfortunatly i just broke my MAP sensor's nipple.. (must hurt for MAP sensors) so anyone got a stock one for sale for cheap?

Or anyone know anything about the GM3Bars?

So now i just have a vacuum leak.. then it should be all good.

 

You can use the GM 3 Bar sensor if you have a programmable ECU (PFC, Haltech, etc). You can't use it on stock or rechipped ECU's.

Just epoxy the nipple back on the stock sensor. I had the same problem. Just widen the hole in the sensor so the nipple will seat inside and epoxy the outside. Let it sit for a day and then you'll be fine.

 

well i bought one from poweraxel for 25$.

 

come to find out.. the part #s for the insulators are backwards... the primary part # is actually the secondary part # and the secondary # is the one for the primaries! So you could mix them up.. hence my pinching and fuel leak!!!

Well now i have new insulators with the white dot on them... My question is.. where does the white dot go in relation to the injector? Does it line up with something? i haven't taken it apart yet.. anyone know?

 

Did you get the nipple on the LIM, to the left of the #1 oil injector?

(highlighted with pink)

 

yes its capped. All i need to know now is how the white dots on the primary insulators go in.. just to make sure they line up with something. Everything else on the car is perfect. I've done non-seq 3 times now... i don't forget the little stuff

Just can't remember bout these damn dots.. i think they line up with something on the pin caps...

 

Dots? I'm not sure what you are talking about. The insulators are just like o-rings, except that their cross-section is more rectangular than circular. They don't line up with anything. Just drop them into the counterbores in the plate and bolt it together.

 

IIRC, I had dots on my insulators as well. I'm pretty sure they mean nothing, just allow you to differentiate primary from secondary.