Tomas Jurgensen

Hi gang!
I have a head-scratcher. I've researched the archives and... am either stupid, unlucky, or in trouble.

The problem:

• my '93 FD will lose power (power steering, ignition, everything) somewhat unpredictably
• It seems to happen mostly, I kid you not, when the front wheels compress the front struts.
• It happens more often while I'm turning in
  • e.g. if I'm turning off of a main road to go up a banked little curb to, say, a Popeye's. It lost power doing just that today.
• It used to happen more, when I had more keys on my keychain. I now have just the car's main key, and it happens less often
• I can turn the key again to re-start the engine without further issues.
• No visibly damaged wires anywhere, nor any signs of rubbing / wear-through on the harness by either wheel.

That said:

• I took it to the local dealership, and they're telling me they can't source parts to replace the ignition with the door keys, and they think it's an ignition key disconnect problem
• I'm pretty sure it is a key issue. I think (think!) that when I'm turning in, the front going up on the curb / bump is moving the steering column just enough to cause a temporary disconnect on the steering wheel end of things.
• Thoughts on how I can conclusively diagnose this, and fix accordingly?

Cheers!

the_saint

Check your grounds, and the battery connections.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

Start the car and then aggressively shake the key. This is a mildy common old Honda problem for the reason you stated. People hang 100lbs of toys off they key chains and it just does something to the inside of the barrel or something idk.... try that and see what happens.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Few things to check -

- Jack up the front of the car and remove both front wheels. Get a flashlight and look VERY closely at the whole wheel well. Rubbing through the fender liner is common and it's the #1 cause of weird issues. You can't see it just peeking in the fender well with the car on the ground.

- Is your battery in the stock location with everything related stock? Battery terminals on tight?

- The ignition key has 2 parts. The part you turn your key in and the electrical part. The lock cylinder has the component that locks the steering column when the key is out but electrically it doesn't do anything. That key cylinder has a tab in the back that fits into the actual electrical ignition switch itself. The switches are still available and are a 10-minute job to replace. You do NOT have to change anything with the lock cylinder. But, if the cylinder is super worn out and it's loose it could be turning the electrical part back off of the On position.

The fact this happens often when turning points me more to a loose ground or the tire rubbing in the fender well and damaging the wiring.

Dale

Tomas Jurgensen

Awesome, thank you all for the tips!

I'm going to go through these ideas this week and report back with what I find.

I'll also go to Popeye's more often to see if that curb can scientifically recreate the environment.

Cheers,
Tomas

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Popeye's has some really good chicken nuggets FYI

Dale

Testrun

People get stabbed at the Popeyes near me.... don't cut anyone in line.

Tomas Jurgensen

Hey gang!
Update, at long last.
Here's what it was:

- battery tie-down had come a little loose. just enough to let the battery slide 1cm or so front-back. This would impact the main ground by the arch, which had a corroded connection. I pulled that main ground, plus the auxiliary ground, deep-cleaned both, added some dielectric grease, and attached with new bolts. then I thoroughly cleaned / greased, and re-attached the battery, and it works!

New problem: the airbag light is blinking 10 times then pauses. It's intermittent. i.e. some days it happens, others not at all, which makes me think two wires melted and sporadically touch. Thoughts?

Billy7

iTrader: (7)

Nice! Airbag light flashing 10 times indicates a "down fuse" in the diagnostic module or damaged D-sensors as indicated in the Factory Service Manual, page S-9. Follow flowchart 3 to diagnose with a multimeter first. If the D-sensors aren't damaged, replacing the "fuse resistor" isn't that hard since it is also a common part that requires service at this age of an RX-7.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

damn bro you got that FSM section memorized. I know the F section (fuel and emissions/engine controls) pretty well. I think half the battle is knowing where among all the resources we have to start looking.

Tomas Jurgensen

Wow! I’d like to buy you a case of beer if appropriate (venmo?). I’ll dig in with the multimeter to find the root cause. Do you think it’s ok to drive in the meantime or beat not?

Billy7

iTrader: (7)

I just looked it up quick, since I repaired my airbag module last year, no memorization, my old brain can't handle it.

I've driven with a flashing airbag light several years, depends if you want to gamble having a working/non-working airbag system...

SlidewaysLeo

Alright fam, I finally figured it out.
The connection from the front driver's side crash D sensor was... dusty. Right where it connects to the main harness, above the driver's side front wheel. I just pulled off the fender dirt cover, and cleaned the connection. Wrapped the connection in some electrical tape, and we're good!