My weekend how-to's - installing springs, and painting calipers
03-22-05, 04:10 PM
#1
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My weekend how-to's - installing springs, and painting calipers
Actually did a LOT of car stuff this Saturday. Did the springs on the FD, got the car aligned, washed it, washed my wife's Lexus, changed the oil in the Lexus, and painted the FD calipers. Whew! What a day!
Anyhow here my Eibach spring install -
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=36&mnu=5
And my how-to on painting your brake calipers the cheap, easy, and fun way -
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=37&mnu=5
Thanks to Howard Coleman for recommending the springs and alignment setup! I'm looking forward to getting good tires for my new rims to REALLY try the suspension out. Whoever puts crappy mud and snow rated tires on an FD should be SHOT!
Yes, these tires came with the car - Bridgestone Eager's. K-RAP!
Anyhow, enjoy and let me know if you need any clarification or anything I missed.
Dale
Anyhow here my Eibach spring install -
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=36&mnu=5
And my how-to on painting your brake calipers the cheap, easy, and fun way -
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=37&mnu=5
Thanks to Howard Coleman for recommending the springs and alignment setup! I'm looking forward to getting good tires for my new rims to REALLY try the suspension out. Whoever puts crappy mud and snow rated tires on an FD should be SHOT!
Yes, these tires came with the car - Bridgestone Eager's. K-RAP!Anyhow, enjoy and let me know if you need any clarification or anything I missed.
Dale
03-22-05, 04:39 PM
#4
Dale,
what kind of paint are you using??
mecman, you beat me to it!
I don't think that acyl paint will last too long.. espeically when the calipers starts to heat up. But maybe it will..
By the way, nice write up!! and good pics!!
what kind of paint are you using??
mecman, you beat me to it!
I don't think that acyl paint will last too long.. espeically when the calipers starts to heat up. But maybe it will..
By the way, nice write up!! and good pics!!
Last edited by Herblenny; 03-22-05 at 04:44 PM.
03-22-05, 04:47 PM
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
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The model paint is actually an enamel, and holds up VERY well. I've known guys who have run multiple track days with no ill effects to the paint.
Yes, you can pull the calipers off and spray them, but this is the quick and dirty way. You don't have to mask anything off or remove anything save the wheel.
I've done a few FC calipers with this method, and never had problem with the Mazda logo looking tired or oxidized. Remember, it is an aluminum caliper, so it won't rust. If it does start looking a little tired, a quick touch-up with the Dremel will take care of it.
Dale
Yes, you can pull the calipers off and spray them, but this is the quick and dirty way
. You don't have to mask anything off or remove anything save the wheel.I've done a few FC calipers with this method, and never had problem with the Mazda logo looking tired or oxidized. Remember, it is an aluminum caliper, so it won't rust. If it does start looking a little tired, a quick touch-up with the Dremel will take care of it.
Dale
03-22-05, 05:07 PM
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Good write up, and I can honestly say I'm glad I chose to pay someone else to do it, even if they did screw up the abs sensor (which they should fix on thursday).
One thing is that the place that did my work recommended driving the car for a week or two before the alignment because the springs will settle slightly over time which could ruin the new alignment.
One thing is that the place that did my work recommended driving the car for a week or two before the alignment because the springs will settle slightly over time which could ruin the new alignment.
03-22-05, 05:22 PM
#7
Originally Posted by DaleClark
The model paint is actually an enamel, and holds up VERY well. I've known guys who have run multiple track days with no ill effects to the paint.
Yes, you can pull the calipers off and spray them, but this is the quick and dirty way. You don't have to mask anything off or remove anything save the wheel.
I've done a few FC calipers with this method, and never had problem with the Mazda logo looking tired or oxidized. Remember, it is an aluminum caliper, so it won't rust. If it does start looking a little tired, a quick touch-up with the Dremel will take care of it.
Dale
Yes, you can pull the calipers off and spray them, but this is the quick and dirty way
. You don't have to mask anything off or remove anything save the wheel.I've done a few FC calipers with this method, and never had problem with the Mazda logo looking tired or oxidized. Remember, it is an aluminum caliper, so it won't rust. If it does start looking a little tired, a quick touch-up with the Dremel will take care of it.
Dale
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03-22-05, 05:36 PM
#8
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Hey Dale,
Do you have any before and after pics of the spring install? It would be nice to see something like that in your writeup for comparison and to give others an idea of the drop they will get with the eibachs. Just a thought / suggestion...
Do you have any before and after pics of the spring install? It would be nice to see something like that in your writeup for comparison and to give others an idea of the drop they will get with the eibachs. Just a thought / suggestion...
08-02-05, 10:20 AM
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Time to bring an old thread back to life!
Dale - question on the front shock mounts. Are the three bolts per shock (that have the 14mm nuts on them) part of the assembly that you bought and replaced?
I ask, because my threads are stripped. Too much removal/installation of the tower brace from the previous owner I guess. I found one thread of similar nature but the guy was using Koni's whereas I'm still on stock suspension. I'll be doing some springs in the near future, and will most likely get new shock mounts, especially if that's the best way to get myself some new bolts.
From the pics on your writeup it certainly looks like the bolts are part of the assembly (when you're removing the shock they look stripped and rusty, but nice and fresh when you're putting the shock back in), I'm just wanting to make sure
Dale - question on the front shock mounts. Are the three bolts per shock (that have the 14mm nuts on them) part of the assembly that you bought and replaced?
I ask, because my threads are stripped. Too much removal/installation of the tower brace from the previous owner I guess. I found one thread of similar nature but the guy was using Koni's whereas I'm still on stock suspension. I'll be doing some springs in the near future, and will most likely get new shock mounts, especially if that's the best way to get myself some new bolts.
From the pics on your writeup it certainly looks like the bolts are part of the assembly (when you're removing the shock they look stripped and rusty, but nice and fresh when you're putting the shock back in), I'm just wanting to make sure
08-02-05, 10:32 AM
#11
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I always jack from the subframe and place my jack stands there as well.
I wouldn't jack the car from or place jackstands under the front a-arms. They are certainly sturdy enough to support the weight and there are no safety issues, but the bolts in the lower a-arms are the eccentrics that set the front camber and caster. When you place your jack or stands under the a-arm itself you could possibly make the bolt move ever so slightly because the weight of the car is then resting on it. This does not happen when the car is at rest. You just payed good money to get the car aligned and there's no sense in changing it!
I don't jack the car from under the diff for the same reason. Jacking from the diff asks the 2 diff bushings to support the weight of the car. They won't explode over night but given that I have other choices I avoid causing unnecessary wear to them.
Last edited by DamonB; 08-02-05 at 10:34 AM.
08-02-05, 10:57 AM
#12
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To answer some questions -
The new strut tops do have new bolts - they're built in. The *nuts* are not included, if those are messed up. The bolts are actually pressed in as part of that assembly.
On jacking - I was lazy on that picture, and just had the one wheel up off the ground to paint the caliper. The jack is actually contacting the subframe there and not the A-arm. I normally jack up the front by the front subframe, put jackstands on the front subframe, then jack up the rear by the diff then put jackstands on the rear subframe. I don't support the car via the diff - just use it long enough to get the car in the air. It's not a sturdy support point, as it's just one point in the center and you really need two points at each side.
Dale
The new strut tops do have new bolts - they're built in. The *nuts* are not included, if those are messed up. The bolts are actually pressed in as part of that assembly.
On jacking - I was lazy on that picture, and just had the one wheel up off the ground to paint the caliper. The jack is actually contacting the subframe there and not the A-arm. I normally jack up the front by the front subframe, put jackstands on the front subframe, then jack up the rear by the diff then put jackstands on the rear subframe. I don't support the car via the diff - just use it long enough to get the car in the air. It's not a sturdy support point, as it's just one point in the center and you really need two points at each side.
Dale
08-02-05, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
To answer some questions -
The new strut tops do have new bolts - they're built in. The *nuts* are not included, if those are messed up. The bolts are actually pressed in as part of that assembly.
The new strut tops do have new bolts - they're built in. The *nuts* are not included, if those are messed up. The bolts are actually pressed in as part of that assembly.
08-02-05, 09:08 PM
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From his website:
"Results? I'm VERY pleased with this setup. Car still rides well and isn't harsh. Handling and turn-in is greatly improved, but my crap tires are keeping me from exploring the limits. The car was lowered an inch all the way around, maybe just more than an inch in the rear, and looks great."
"Results? I'm VERY pleased with this setup. Car still rides well and isn't harsh. Handling and turn-in is greatly improved, but my crap tires are keeping me from exploring the limits. The car was lowered an inch all the way around, maybe just more than an inch in the rear, and looks great."
08-03-05, 01:08 AM
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Just wanted to say that this was an awesome write up. I used it to help me install my koni's and eibachs and had it done in 4 hours, with air tools of course. Just wanted to say thanks to Dale. Anyways, great job on the write up and i'll look forward to the many more to come, hopefully. 
06-16-08, 11:54 PM
#25
Rotary Enthusiast
painted calipers