Is my Themostat suppose to look like this?
07-16-07, 01:03 PM
#2
as long as water doesnt leak past the black seal then you are fine....pour some water in the top and hold up see if drips through the back??? maybe this will tell you if the seal is holding...if not all will happen is it will allow more water to flow through even when the thermostat is closed and thats not too much of a problem
07-16-07, 01:46 PM
#4
Racecar - Formula 2000
^^^^
Agree - just get the proper one from Malloy Mazda (aftermarket ones can cause problems) - they're not very expensive.
Agree - just get the proper one from Malloy Mazda (aftermarket ones can cause problems) - they're not very expensive.
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07-16-07, 06:07 PM
#9
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i just changed mine....called mallory mazda because the old thermostat...didn't look like the new one...
they said mazda changed the design...
if you order a new one ...let me know what part number is on it...soican make sure i didn't get the wrong one...
brad
they said mazda changed the design...
if you order a new one ...let me know what part number is on it...soican make sure i didn't get the wrong one...
brad
07-16-07, 10:45 PM
#12
also i put it in and it runs fine.. temps acually dont go over 95c at wot or anything since i drilled it. when i tested it, it was normally at around 89-93c normal driving with a/c on too it doesnt go over 95, and it was hot today!. .
07-17-07, 01:37 AM
#13
Turd Ferguson
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I just bought a new one from Mazdatrix for 14 bux. It's a Stant as they've had problems with the Mazda OEM ones.
Here's the note on their page:
"Note: We have had several problems lately with the
OEM 89-95 thermostats due to their rubber seal failing.
For this reason, we sell the Stant thermostat for this application."
Here's the note on their page:
"Note: We have had several problems lately with the
OEM 89-95 thermostats due to their rubber seal failing.
For this reason, we sell the Stant thermostat for this application."
07-17-07, 12:20 PM
#17
It didnt melt, its in there somewhere.
We rebuilt a motor recently that had severely overheated. The t-stat looked about like that but a chunk of the rubber had lodged itself in such a way the t-stat couldnt flow. I would personally not drive it at all until that was replaced with a new one and the system was flushed out.
We rebuilt a motor recently that had severely overheated. The t-stat looked about like that but a chunk of the rubber had lodged itself in such a way the t-stat couldnt flow. I would personally not drive it at all until that was replaced with a new one and the system was flushed out.
07-17-07, 12:59 PM
#18
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Just FYI, most parts stores sell the seals seperately if you're just insistent upon not changing out the t-stat right now. If you just change the seal make sure to take your old one with you to match it up correctly.
07-17-07, 01:26 PM
#19
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
It didnt melt, its in there somewhere.
We rebuilt a motor recently that had severely overheated. The t-stat looked about like that but a chunk of the rubber had lodged itself in such a way the t-stat couldnt flow. I would personally not drive it at all until that was replaced with a new one and the system was flushed out.
We rebuilt a motor recently that had severely overheated. The t-stat looked about like that but a chunk of the rubber had lodged itself in such a way the t-stat couldnt flow. I would personally not drive it at all until that was replaced with a new one and the system was flushed out.
07-17-07, 10:09 PM
#20
the motors been flushed recently so it should be fine... acually flushed it 3 times... no over heating problems what so ever.. if i ever get to around 100c i would just pull over and turn the car off... dont want to take a chance..
07-17-07, 11:01 PM
#21
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
well, 100 C is only 212 F. Ideally your fans will be on by then and the temps won't stay in triple digits for long. The only time I've ever seen what I consider hot temps was on the road race course.
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