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my first rx7 wont start

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Old 03-18-22, 05:04 AM
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my first rx7 wont start

Hi,

i bought FD rx-7 in june last year and it was just delivered to me, I tried to start it but the battery was dead so I jumped it,

it cranked once or twice and the battery died again then I waited for 5 minutes and then I tried again and I got it to crank but it wouldn't crank I'm not sure if it flooded as I tried to press down the throttle to clear the engine but nothing happened.

so I'm think I will try spraying brake cleaner or something in the intake to start it but I just wanted to ask first if this is a good idea.

does the fuel rail have a port for mechanical fuel gauge?
is the egi fuse for the fuel pump or injector?
Old 03-18-22, 08:08 AM
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First off, go get a new battery. Don't try and monkey around with a weak battery, jump starting, all that.

I assume you bought the car as a running car? Most likely a new battery will be all it needs. Worst case a fresh set of spark plugs.

Dale
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kevintx7 (03-28-22)
Old 03-18-22, 02:39 PM
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ok i installed new battery and i pressed down the throttle while cranking for 20 second then I cranked the engine without throttle it started immediately and the rpm went to 3000 rpm for few second then it dropped.

drove the car around the block no issue and it didn't overheat, the only issue is the oil pressure gauge the pressure is at 10 psi and sometimes it goes to 30 psi i assume its just the gauge not sure if i should be worried.

there is a sound of slight misfire at idle and it was smoking when it was cold, i will change the plugs and fuel filter first thing then i might clean the injector.

anything i should know about as first time owner of rotary or anything i should buy?

i found 5 bottles of castrol 10w30 in the trunk not sure if it was used as premix? does anyone uses engine oil as premix?

i found amsoil outboard 2 stroke premix should i use it ? or is there any other 2 stroke oil i should use as i don't have lots of options locally
Old 03-18-22, 02:43 PM
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The oil pressure senders are often flaky. The orifice gets blocked with crud. Sometimes they can be cleaned and work again. Search -there are many threads on the sender.
Old 03-18-22, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by QTR FMS
ok i installed new battery and i pressed down the throttle while cranking for 20 second then I cranked the engine without throttle it started immediately and the rpm went to 3000 rpm for few second then it dropped.

drove the car around the block no issue and it didn't overheat, the only issue is the oil pressure gauge the pressure is at 10 psi and sometimes it goes to 30 psi i assume its just the gauge not sure if i should be worried.

there is a sound of slight misfire at idle and it was smoking when it was cold, i will change the plugs and fuel filter first thing then i might clean the injector.

anything i should know about as first time owner of rotary or anything i should buy?

i found 5 bottles of castrol 10w30 in the trunk not sure if it was used as premix? does anyone uses engine oil as premix?

i found amsoil outboard 2 stroke premix should i use it ? or is there any other 2 stroke oil i should use as i don't have lots of options locally
Using the search function, or going to google and typing in your query followed by "site:www.rx7club.com" (without quotes) will help you tremendously.
Old 03-18-22, 03:51 PM
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Welcome aboard. This is a link to the 3rd gen archives and the FAQ section. Check it out, do some reading. It’s very helpful.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...l-links-68640/

~ GW
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kevintx7 (03-28-22)
Old 03-19-22, 12:07 AM
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Castrol GTX is fine oil. But maybe running 20W-50 would be better given the temperatures in your region.
Also this might help raise your oil pressure a little bit.

Any 2 stroke oil works. Mix 14.5mL per every 3.8 liters of gas an you will be good to go
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kevintx7 (03-28-22)
Old 03-19-22, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by QTR FMS
ok i installed new battery and i pressed down the throttle while cranking for 20 second then I cranked the engine without throttle it started immediately and the rpm went to 3000 rpm for few second then it dropped.

drove the car around the block no issue and it didn't overheat, the only issue is the oil pressure gauge the pressure is at 10 psi and sometimes it goes to 30 psi i assume its just the gauge not sure if i should be worried.

there is a sound of slight misfire at idle and it was smoking when it was cold, i will change the plugs and fuel filter first thing then i might clean the injector.

anything i should know about as first time owner of rotary or anything i should buy?

i found 5 bottles of castrol 10w30 in the trunk not sure if it was used as premix? does anyone uses engine oil as premix?

i found amsoil outboard 2 stroke premix should i use it ? or is there any other 2 stroke oil i should use as i don't have lots of options locally
Glad you got it started!

Don't expect a butter smooth idle. As long as it holds at a steady RPM, if you have a little bit of a miss or spit that's normal. Old injector technology with a rotary engine and high octane fuel creates that.

Do NOT use engine oil as premix. You have to use oil that's designed to premix.

Personally I don't premix. I don't see the need for it. It's just a waste of money and time.

10w30 is fine for oil, that's the stock oil weight. Go ahead and use that oil up. Probably worth doing an oil change now especially if you don't know when it was changed last. Also you can get a lot of gas in the oil when the car is flooded.

Going forward 20w50 in a hot/warm climate is a good way to go.

The oil pressure is most likely the sensor as stated. I wouldn't even fool with yours, just buy a new one from Mazda and swap it out, it's a 5 minute job to do.

Dale
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kevintx7 (03-28-22)
Old 04-01-22, 01:32 AM
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thanks guys.

I drove the car for a week now and I'm getting to learn a lot about the car, it's really more interesting than I thought it would be and I love the torque at 3000RPM can't wait till I install the downpipe, midpipe, catback, intake filters and haltech ecu

i might keep the stock ecu for knock protection and omp if I can install the parts without needing to tune the afr.

If i can trust haltech base tune i will try to keep the OMP with haltech but I'm worried it wont be enough mix and damage the engine or it might be to much, is there a way to datalog the stock ecu or has anyone tried to back probe the omp signal as I think its only 0-5v signal I want to datalog it with rpm and map sensor to create 3d table for haltech. I believe haltech uses duty cycle for OMP, has anyone used omp with aftermarket ecu?i want to see more tables for the omp.

another thing I think I need clutch switch for idle in gear does anyone have the part number or link to it? is that switch also for the cruise control as mine does not work but I get the green light on the dash and the car decelerates.

and i want to lower the clutch pedal as it weird how high the engagement point is on the clutch.

is the power steering heavy on this car or do i need to flush the old fluid and maybe the pump it requires a little bit of effort to turn full lock?
Old 04-01-22, 08:57 AM
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Boy bunch of questions!

First off, drive the car as it is for a few months. Get to know the car. Find out what the car NEEDS first. Get all the maintenance taken care of. Go over the brakes. Let the car tell you what it's needing first before going down the rabbit hole of mods.

Too many new owners jump right into modifying the car. Get the car sorted out and working great first, then go from there. This isn't a 2-year old car that needs nothing and it's ready to modify, it's a 30 year old car that you don't know the history on.

I would also seriously look at the PowerFC. If you are staying on the twins it makes your life a lot easier. Plug and play. OMP works, everything works. FC-Tweak now does auto tuning as well. The Haltech is great but trying to get it to control twins and OMP is a big ask.

If your clutch engagement is really high that typically means your clutch is VERY worn. The engagement point goes up as the clutch wears thinner. Plan on a new clutch.

Can't hurt to flush PS fluid.

Dale

Old 04-01-22, 05:24 PM
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yeah i wont do all at once, my plan is to install part by part and I would check the afr and boost before installing haltech, I still haven't completed the registration process so I wont modify the car any time soon.

i looked under the dash and I found out that the clutch switch wire was unplugged for some reason, I plugged it back in now the car idles better in gear and does not stall and the cruise control also works

I flushed the power steering fluid it took 2 liters to get the fluid clean, the steering feeling is slightly better but it's still heavy.

so far it seems the MPG is 12 and oil consumption is 200ml per full tank, i just changed oil and used 5w40 i will check again next week if it gets better.
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