dhays

iTrader: (1)

I just came back from the shop where I had my FD looked at. I needed to try and pass WA emissions (failed anyway but got the waiver), and had the car given a general look over. I knew there were electrical problems and low boost on the secondary. Here are the problems he identified.

- Some underbody rust. Midwest car, oh well.

- Fuel filter has not been touched in a long time if ever.

- Bonex High Flow Cat is rattling. It may be coming apart and this would explain some of the emission problems.

- Greddy Airinx filters are doing a very poor job (dirt in the intake pipes).

- Rear plugs fouled. He replaced them and I'll have to check them again in a bit to see if the problem was the plugs themselves or possible fuel problems.

- He found the car had a complete tie wrap job with silicone. I had known some vacuum hoses had been replaced, but the entire thing was redone. The mechanic wasn't necessarily happy about it since it would have been easy to make a mistake and we don't know who did it.

- He found a bad connection at connector X-05 (Page Z-32 of the wiring diagram) The wire was the one (I think) that provides voltage to the boost sensor. When this was moved the engine would quit. He did a temporary fix and suggests a soldered by-pass to that connector if it seems to have solved the electrical problems.

- He also found that the ground for the shield wires for the O2 and knock sensors was actually hot. It didn't have a lot of current (not enough to light a small bulb) but enough to show up on a volt meter. That means that there is something wrong, most likely a short, around those shield wires (again page Z-32 ground #5)

- A grounding kit had been installed at one point. He doesn't think it was necessary and is suspicious of it.

- There is a Greddy Oil filter relocation kit installed. He said it just gets in the way of getting at the plugs and should just be removed.

- There is an aftermarket engine torque mount that is rattling on the engine underneath it. He says I don't need it and should just take it off.

- Bad oil pressure sending unit that also leaks a bit. This is why my OE oil pressure gauge sometimes reads no/low pressure. The Defi oil pressure gauge that was added works great.

- Belt dressing all over the belts and also all over the engine. (Look of much disgust on mechanics face

On the other hand, he thinks the engine is basically in good shape although there are some unknowns with the fuel system and there is something flaky in the secondary turbo system giving only 5psi above 4500rpm.

Plan:
- Clean and oil air filters and/or replace them with better filters.
- Remove or remount the engine torque mount so it clears
- Remove the Greddy Oil Filter relocation stuff and put oil filter back where it was. (I might pay to have that done)
- Pay to have fuel filter changed
- Check on finding different main cat that would work better. I won't need to worry about emissions for another year or two so that can wait.
- Check plugs in a bit to see if fouling problem persists
- If electrical problem is fixed, then have mechanic wire a by-pass for that one wire.
- At same time, pay him to track down that hot ground. $$$$

So much for my entry into the FD.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Remember. Foam filters require filter oil. Without it, there is nothing to stop the tiny particles (aka dust).

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I was just looking up to see what oil I need to use with these Airinx filters. I'm a bit confused because Greddy makes a big point of calling them "dry" filters. It doesn't make any sense to me. I just pulled the filters and it sure doesn't look like they would filter well dry.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You can just use K&N Oil Filter. It will be better than nothing. Also, quite a few motorcycles use foam filters, so most motorcycle shops will have foam filter oil. I've used this:

http://www.speedsupplies.com/accesso...asp?item=12298

before on my old HKS intakes. Damn sticky and messy stuff, but it worked really well. Picked it up from a Kawasaki shop.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I grabbed some K&N filter oil tonight. The filters are still drying from being washed so I'll oil them tomorrow. I may see about some different air intake filters than the Greddy. The design just doesn't look effective. I should be able to find some other filters than would fit on the intake tubes. They look to be about 2 1/4"

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I have an almsot new Bonez Hi-Flow cat that I plan on removing for a midpipe. If you want it, send me a PM.

less than 100 miles

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, you either sacrifice filtering or air flow. Take your pick.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

sounds like you have a pretty good mechanic. and a good plan.

your turbo problem is that the door located on the pipe that transports the two turbos charge air output is not opening at 4500. in order for it to open both the pressure on one side must go to zero and the vacuum on the other side must go to zero. there are hoses on both sides of the door and solenoids connected to the hoses. further, there are two plastic chambers, one that houses pressure and one vacuum. each has a one way valve. you figure it out by running a gauged (pressure and vaccum) hose T'd into just before the door and go for a drive. see what happens at 4500. you then backtrack which ever side isn't working and find a loose hose (most likely), a leaking or backwards one way valve, a non-filled chamber, or a non working solenoid (least likely). not difficult. not fun. get a shop manual if you don't have one or do a search for maps of the whole OEM mess.

good luck w your FD,

howard coleman

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I'll take filtering. For a street car, it has plenty of power for me. I took apart the intake pipes and found a lot of crap in the pipes. Some of it actually looked like fine sand (maybe from my XC trip across dry winter roads?) and I shudder to think of the effect of that sand if it made it farther back in th engine. I'd like to find a filter that I'm a little more confident in, just to give me peace of mind if nothing else.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I'll take a look at the shop manual and some of the good sources on how those turbos work. Frankly, I'm not sure I feel up to the task of doing that diagnostic work. I used to do a lot of my own repair and service work. But that was when I was a kid working on older cars. I'm 49 now and currently don't have the skill set. Even so, I'll take a look and see if it is something I might try and tackle.

I really am at the mercy of the mechanic. Fortunately, I found a guy that is only 40 minutes away (depending on traffic) and has an impressive rotary resume. He also came highly recommended by the NW rotary guys as well as the folks at Atkins Rotary. His biggest problem seems to be that he has more work than he can handle and is starting to get a bit tired.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

That is what I have on the car now. The problem is that I don't know whether my emissions problems are, in part, because the capacity of the cat is to low to clean up the emissions well enough, or if the cat is starting to come apart and isn't performing properly. I'd hate to replace it and not have any improvement in the emissions.

I wouldn't mind trying to find an OE cat to put in and see if it makes a difference. I don't suppose you have one of those collecting dust somewhere?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

In that case, you are really better off with the stock air box.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Sorry bro, my OE cat is long gone. I just read that you suspected your Bonez was falling apart, so I thought you might want a cheaper than $500 replacement for it.

However, now that I'm well rested, I'd wadger that rattling you hear is the apex seal that the motor puked last time it blew up. Drop the cat and see what falls out.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. I actually do have the stock airbox. The prior owner gave it to me with the car when I bought it. Being the lazy guy that I am, I'd rather find a better filter that I could just replace out for the Greddy's. I have enough room for several different kinds. I'll take a look at the box and components that I have and see what it would take to reinstall it.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

That is encouraging. I'll see about pulling the Bonez and see if I can find out what is going on with it. If it looks bad, (rattles when I shake it? I don't know.) Then I may be interested in your cat. Of course, that means I need to round up a jack and some jack stands. I got rid of mine a couple of decades ago.

93redtouring

iam also in the seattle area and just bought a 93, where did you go to get the car checked out at? how much did it cost? what all do they check ?
thanks
greg

dhays

iTrader: (1)

Jerry's Little Car Shop in Kent. 253-854-9601. I spent over $500, mostly in labor, so it wasn't cheap. FWIW, the invoice for labor for the oil, diff, and tranny fluid changes, parts and labor was only about $125 including tax. Heck, the labor for the oil change was only $14. That alone is worth me not having to take the used oil to a recycler.

It cost about $300 in labor for all the emissions work plus all the diagnostic stuff he did. Three different emissions tests, road test, change out plugs, and lots and lots of time chasing down that weird electrical problem.

Anyway, Jerry is worth talking to. I typed up a list before I went in of exactly what I knew about the car and what I didn't. I also listed clearly what I wanted him to do (for example I knew I wanted the oil change, plugs, tranny, and diff all changed). I also listed all the problems I was aware of in the car. That was the list that he concentrated on and it made communication easier.