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OS Giken also makes an upgraded 3 and 5 speed kit. Had a look at one the other day. Much beefier shafts, closer ratios, but still helical cut gears.
The OS Giken gear set has been on back order for well over 4 years at this point. OS has said they will produce more, but they don't have a production run scheduled. Please drop OS Giken USA an email at sales@osgikenusa.com, hopefully this will encourage them to restart production. Liberty Gears is another great resource, but last I checked they only offer straight cut gears if you're after a closer ratio. None of this properly addresses the case flex..
Edit: Guess I should have read the article. $8000 with a new transmission. This is quite a bit more involved than I would have expected. Did you have to pound the tunnel? I take it you can't use the powerplant frame.
Unlike the Ford 8.8" upgrade, transmission upgrades are expensive.
I will be covering the installation in a future article, but to answer your question, the CD009/CD00A fits without modifying or pounding the tunnel. However, the SerialNINE shifter places the lever a little further forward and required cutting a 1" V-shaped notch at the forward end of the shifter opening in the tunnel. The SerialNINE shifter has an included offset arm that places the shift lever very close to stock. I was also able to modify the factory rubber boot to seal the shifter opening.
On FB, someone pointed out the GKTech shifter places the shifter perfectly in the center of the opening. So there are other options.
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
^^He had already switched to a Ford rear diff so no PPF to worry about.
For a race / track car, people have had some success with face plated gears from Liberty.
It looks like the Liberty face plated gears are $2,418 and still uses the stock FD transmission case. The stock case is weak and will still flex, causing the input and output shaft to separate and less engagement of the gear teeth, which is when the teeth shear. I'm sure with the shot peened and cryogenically frozen gears will increase the strength and power/torque limit of the transmission, but until someone does it and breaks it, we won't know what that limit is.
I think its a great option for around 350-400lb ft of torque (or maybe more), and it would be pretty cool to have dog-ring engagement and faster shifting without spending $12-20K on a faceplated T56 Magnum or sequential racing transmission.
Last edited by Billj747; May 22, 2024 at 11:58 AM.
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 18 – Assembling the 13B REW
Our 13B REW is finally ready for assembly, now that our rotors are lightened, irons are bridge ported and semi peripheral ported, and we WPC Treated and CTP Cryo treated pretty much everything.
After nearly 2 years from the fire that started us down the path of tearing down and building a brand-new Mazda crate engine that had 2,000 miles on it, into one of the most highly-modified 13B REW engines (with stock irons) on the planet, we were ecstatic to finally see everything come together.
Looking at it a little closer, if you eliminate the PPF, you eliminate an exhaust hanger, leaving the exhaust unsupported near the midpipe/catback junction. I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned more, how are people handling this?
Looking at it a little closer, if you eliminate the PPF, you eliminate an exhaust hanger, leaving the exhaust unsupported near the midpipe/catback junction. I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned more, how are people handling this?
I made an exhaust hanger mount using two holes where one of the aluminum X-brace used to be.
Worked out nice.
Are the metal I-Seals "bend don't brake" or "OEM-style grenade"?
They're "bend don't brake" but they're fairly hard so require a bit more premix.It might be overkill but I've settled in to 2oz/gallon with an OMP, running Klotz Techniplate. No smoking once the temps pass abut 50-60C.
They're "bend don't brake" but they're fairly hard so require a bit more premix.It might be overkill but I've settled in to 2oz/gallon with an OMP, running Klotz Techniplate. No smoking once the temps pass about 50-60C.
For my elucidation, can you explain why it needs premix with a functioning OMP? Simply because they’re hard, so they need extra lube and cooling to not wear on the housing? Or they need it to seal properly?
For my elucidation, can you explain why it needs premix with a functioning OMP? Simply because they’re hard, so they need extra lube and cooling to not wear on the housing? Or they need it to seal properly?
I believe its more for cooling than for housing wear, though the latter may be part of it. More friction = more heat, more heat = warpage, which is what "soft seals" are intended to do instead of break.
Note, the guideline for a gas burning motor with a functioning OMP on the street is 1oz/gallon. 2.5oz/gallon is for an E85 car with no OMP. I just run the 2oz to be safe, and because I don't want to be in between when I show up with a half-tank at the track, and because 1.5oz/gallon was a pain for me to calculate all the time.
I was running 1.5oz per gallon of Redline with no OMP and 2oz when on track.
Abel Ibarra recommends an insanely low 1oz per gallon without an OMP ONLY when using Bio-Rotary Racing Premix from Renewable Lubricants -which I will be doing with my new built engine.
I'd like to try the bio stuff, I haven't checked if it's compatible with WI. But I figure, there's no harm in running more as long as it doesn't smoke.
I just got caught up with this thread. My son is now 17 years old and going into spec miata racing. I finally made it to DGRR and looking forward to next year's event. The YouTube channel is now called Arrivendrive. Billy I really am enjoying this thread and am glad that you and your team are further developing the FD. I have always been interested in adding a 6sp h-pattern to my car so I am all ears. Originally I wanted to throw a rx8 trans in the car but was told it would not handle the torque. Please keep posting and ignore the haters.
In any car build, it is important to have a plan and work towards that end goal. We originally planned on a Tremec T56 Magnum transmission for our FD and we were excited to use the McLeod RST clutch that was designed for the stock FD's 1x23 spline clutch centers, which has the ability to swap out to 1x26 spline clutch centers to be used with the T56 Magnum when it was time to upgrade the transmission.
However, our plans changed and we decided to upgrade the transmission right off the bat to the Nissan CD009 due to its advantages over the T56 Magnum. Unfortunately, the McLeod RST clutch that we were excited about using does not fit this transmission, so we chose the Competition Clutch Triple Disc Organic Clutch mated to the Fisch Racing Tech lightweight flywheel..
In this article we discuss:
-The unique organic friction plates of the Competition Clutch Triple Disc Organic Clutch
-The weight of the Competition Clutch Triple and Fisch Racing Tech lightweight flywheel
-Clutch and Flywheel installation
-Fisch Racing Tech's CD009 transmission adapter system and the Tilton HRB release bearing
-Measuring the release bearing gap
-The Grannas Racing Tilton Clutch Master Cylinder upgrade
-Modifying the Grannas Clutch Master Cylinder to use the brake master cylinder reservoir like stock.
The biggest advantage is that the synchros work better than say a T57 at high rpm shifting.
There a lot of info in Part 18 – Choosing a Transmission Upgrade
We upgraded our FD RX-7’s transmission with the durable, 1,000whp+ and high-rpm capable CD009/CD00A transmission from the Nissan 350Z. To make this a seamless installation, we are using the Fisch Racing Tech CD009 Adapter system and the SERIALNINE CD999 shifter assembly.
In this article we discuss:
-Limitations of the stock FD RX-7 transmission-6-speed manual transmission options
-Sequential (dog-ring) transmission options
-DCT options
-The Nissan CD009/CD00A
-Fisch Racing Tech CD009/CD00A adapter system (and installation)
-SerialNINE Shifter
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 21 – Suspension Refresh with SuperPro USA Polyurethane Bushings
We freshened up our FD’s30-year old, worn out suspension bushings with SuperPro USA polyurethane bushings and replaced the clunking old pillow ball bushings in the rear suspension. We also vapor blasted the aluminum arms and powder coated the front subframe to match the rear.
In this article we discuss:
-The benefits of polyurethane bushings
-Removing the front and rear suspension
-Rebuilding the rear toe links with SuperPro bushings and powdercoating the links.
-Vapor Blasting the suspension arms
-Sanding down the rear suspension arms
-Rear pillowball installation
-ARP extended wheel studs
-Front upper control arm bushing issue
-Powdercoating the front subframe
-Sakebomb Billet Front Swaybar Mount installation
BTW I had custom offset delrin bushing made by Racebushings.com. They still have the schematics I sent to re-make bushings. Might make sense for your build to run even stiffer bushings, offset to gain camber/caster. I ran Powerflex bushings in the past which unfortunately deformed after a few track days.
Thank you for the recommendation. I've also run Powerflex poly bushings on my old M3 and they also deformed relatively quickly and had to be replaced a couple of times. I've had better luck (and others with more mileage than me) on SuperPro bushings lasting much longer. I like the balance between performance and comfort of polyurethane, especially for a street/track car. SuperPro also has offset bushings as well. If this car was more competition-focused, I would take you up on your offer. 👍
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 22 – DC Power Alternator, Raceonly Pulleys, FFE Hall Trigger Kit
We upgrade the electrical system of our car with a high output alternator from DC Power, improved the look of our engine bay with a set of Raceonly Pulleys, and ensured accurate engine timing at high RPM with the Full Function Engineering Hall Crank Trigger Kit.
In this article we discuss:
-The performance of the OEM alternator and it's limitations
-The performance of the DC Power 180A HP Alternator
-Alternator and accessory pulley ratios.
-Stock vs Raceonly vs Banzai pulley sizes
-Raceonly Billet Pulleys
-Full Function Engineering Idler Pulley
-Full Function Engineering Hall Crank Trigger Kit
From what I read, the undersized Banzai crank pulley will underdrive the accessories which allows you to keep the remaining pulleys "stock size". You switched to a stock size Raceonly crank pulley in which they provided larger pulleys for the accessories to underdrive them. The bonus was that Raceonly also provides the shiney idler pulley, was that the main reason for using this set? It would have been a nice addition to include the Banzai pulley ratios/RPMs in the article just for comparison. You're planning to keep AC in the car?
I'm loving following this build. The vapor honing looks amazing. Is there anything you are doing or would recommend doing to help keep the alloy vapor honed finish looking that way? For example, clear coating?
From what I read, the undersized Banzai crank pulley will underdrive the accessories which allows you to keep the remaining pulleys "stock size". You switched to a stock size Raceonly crank pulley in which they provided larger pulleys for the accessories to underdrive them. The bonus was that Raceonly also provides the shiney idler pulley, was that the main reason for using this set? It would have been a nice addition to include the Banzai pulley ratios/RPMs in the article just for comparison. You're planning to keep AC in the car?
That is correct for the alternator. Raceonly did this to not only slow down the alternator, but to increase the surface contact area of the serpentine belt on the water pump pulley to prevent slipping when not using an idler pulley. They also have deep serrations on the water pump pulley to further reduce slipping. A smaller underdrive main/crank pulley and smaller (or stock) alternator pulley would reduce this contact area and increase the chance of the belt slipping on the water pump pulley.
The Raceonly P/S pulley is the same size as stock, so it is not underdriven with the stock main/crank pulley diameter and neither is the A/C compressor. I did not want to sacrifice idle and low rpm power steering assist or especially A/C performance, which are the main reasons (along with the tried and tested water pump and alternator sizing that reduces slipping) that I chose this pulley setup. The shiny idler pulley was a bonus that other brands don't offer.
I might add the Banzai pulley ratios to the article, but all of the diameters are listed so you can do the math of any mixed combo to determine what is best for your needs.
Originally Posted by KYPREO
I'm loving following this build. The vapor honing looks amazing. Is there anything you are doing or would recommend doing to help keep the alloy vapor honed finish looking that way? For example, clear coating?
Thanks for the feedback! I have thought about this but have not yet done anything additional to the vapor honed parts. My NSX has some vapor honed parts that I did 3+ years ago and they still look great. If I had to guess, they might have lost 5-10% of their "shine" during this time, but they are holding up great and still have the bright matte look to them. My FD's UIM was polished then Vapor honed a year ago (which will be covered in a future article) and it has been traveling in boxes that whole time and this abuse has scuffed the finish more than it probably would have if it was just polished. I will probably blast it again before the final installation and I'm considering clear coating it, but might want to try something smaller and less of a focal point in case it changes the finish and look significantly.
