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We are going to back-to-back test Borg Warner’s EFR 8374 and EFR 9180 turbos on our Bridge and Semi Peripheral Ported 13B REW engine. The twinscroll turbo will be mounted on the Turblown Engineering Investment Cast 347SS Exhaust Manifold and boost is kept in check by twin TurboSmart CompGate40 wastegates. Needless to say, we are very excited to see how these turbos stack up to each other on this build.
Enjoy and stay tuned!
Would love to see 8374 vs 8474... or even some of the new Turbosmart turbos...
still rockin Sikky diff brace & no PPF or were they not needed?
Neither are used now that the car has a Ronin Ford 8.8" diff kit, which requires welding a crossmember to the rear subframe to support the front diff mount in the 8.8 - The car now has a CD009 transmission with a Fisch Racing Tech transmission mount.
Hello! I’ve been reading your resto mod and was wondering how you did the rewire of the electrical harness? I would love to do the same thing with my car but don’t know where to start.
All my lighting is stock and I do not have an upgraded stereo system. Still have power steering and A/C.
Last edited by nithikorn; Mar 30, 2025 at 05:34 AM.
We developed a battery relocation wire kit with Battery Cables USA. Since you relocated your battery to the trunk, you could get individual battery cables pre-terminated if you send them the lengths, or you can get wires and terminals from them and make them yourself.
already got Ronin 8.8 kit & Ford 3.55 diff. im still deciding on a final drive. been lookin @ 4.11 but still not sure yet. i figure itll b a while til gotta figure it out. i just bought a Sikky CD shifter tho hopin itll fit better. now i gotta sell my Serial 9 CD999 shifter but should b ez
Could you share what else you removed from the electrical harness apart from the power and ground lines?
I'm not quite sure I understand your question on 'what else we removed'. We didn't really 'remove' anything. We replaced all of the factory power and ground wires with larger wires from BatteryCablesUSA. You can see the lengths and size of each line and what they replace in the RX7 Battery Relocation Kit (HERE).
Originally Posted by RXfkn7
already got Ronin 8.8 kit & Ford 3.55 diff. im still deciding on a final drive. been lookin @ 4.11 but still not sure yet. i figure itll b a while til gotta figure it out. i just bought a Sikky CD shifter tho hopin itll fit better. now i gotta sell my Serial 9 CD999 shifter but should b ez
Choosing a final drive ratio depends on your goals and transmission. Are you using the CD009 transmission and do you want to keep roughly the same shift points as stock? Are you making significantly more power than stock and want to optimize the usage of that power with longer gears?
ya i got CD00A & Fisch adapter. i was thinkin of a stock drive ratio but im not sure since i never felt otherwise. my future goal is 700+ but im most likely gonna end up somewhere around 550ish currently. drift build but still street viable… stop & go traffic etc…
ya i got CD00A & Fisch adapter. i was thinkin of a stock drive ratio but im not sure since i never felt otherwise. my future goal is 700+ but im most likely gonna end up somewhere around 550ish currently. drift build but still street viable… stop & go traffic etc…
The pro drift teams calculate and change their gear ratios and final drive ratios based on the cornering speeds (and wheel speeds) of a given track and the torque curve of their engine. If you know what kind of cornering and wheel speeds you are going to see at a given track, you can better choose a final drive ratio without a bunch of trial and error.
At 550hp, you will probably want slightly longer gears so you're not constantly shifting or become stuck between gears that are too short and too long.
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 27 – Fabricating the Exhaust with Vibrant Performance and SP MufflersNow that our turbo system is mounted, we started fabricating a 4” downpipe with recirculated wastegates and a 3.5” exhaust system for our FD RX-7 using SP Mufflers and Vibrant Performance mandrel bends, V-band clamps, and Bellows.
Rotary engines produce not only a lot of heat, but a lot of noise as well. Aggressive porting can make them even louder and since our 13B REW was bridge and semi-peripheral ported back in Part-13, finding a muffler that can durably handle the heat and effectively keep the decibels in check was important to keep this car well-rounded and enjoyable to drive. After a bunch of research, we landed on SP Mufflers due to their vast experience making mufflers for rotary-powered cars, and because they produce some of the largest mufflers that can fit in an FD RX-7, which is fundamental in reducing sound.
In this article we discuss:
-SP Mufflers and their manufacturing
-RX-7 Specific SP Muffler and Resonators
-Fabricating custom muffler mounts
-Fabricating the 3.5" exhaust with Vibrant Performance mandrel bends and V-band Clamps
-Fabricating the 4" downpipe and recirculated wastegates using Vibrant Performance Bellows
-Thermal management with Heatshield Products "Armor"
I've been researching those mufflers for my RX8 race car so glad to see someone else using them. That exhaust wrap looks interesting too. Will probably use some of that in the future.
I've been researching those mufflers for my RX8 race car so glad to see someone else using them. That exhaust wrap looks interesting too. Will probably use some of that in the future.
Thank you. The SP Mufflers are really nice. I like how they've proven the reliability of their mufflers for years on many road racing rotary cars down in Australia. Since road racing is far more strenuous on mufflers than street or drag racing, I have a lot of confidence in their quality.
The Heatshield Products Exhaust Armor is awesome. We've had it on our Viper for years and it greatly reduced in-cabin and side-sill temps where you will no longer burn yourself when getting out of the car.
Having read this article, I’m wondering if maybe I need a flex joint added to my exhaust, since I think tension in the exhaust system is making it hard to get the downpipe to seal to the turbo properly.
Having read this article, I’m wondering if maybe I need a flex joint added to my exhaust, since I think tension in the exhaust system is making it hard to get the downpipe to seal to the turbo properly.
It wouldn't hurt, and would help reduce torquing forces on your turbo and downpipe as it goes through heat cycles.
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 28 – JRi Coilovers from Ultimate Performance Speed Shop
We upgraded the suspension on our FD by replacing the Ohlins DFV with a set of double-adjustable monotube JRi Motorsports dampers from Ultimate Performance Speed Shop.
In this article we discuss:
-JRi Shocks and their Founder (who founded and designed the first Penske damper)
-What coilover brand is best for you
-Who Ultimate Speed Shop is and their background/services
-JRi coilover tech and features
-JRi vs Ohlins DFV
-Installation of coilovers
obviously built to a higher spec and price. congrats on a comprehensive write up. i was wondering when you were going to get to one of the most important features... rear travel.
i had a lengthy convo w Sakebomb as to why they were selling equal spring rates F&R. after lots of hemming and hawing, truth arrived. they had to run too stiff rear springs because the rear shock body did not have enough rear travel. equal spring rates on an FD are death on lap times. any racer would know that. to their eventual credit, Sakebomb created their own (proprietary) longer rear shock body. your DFVs do not have that configuration.
my question to you is... how does the rear travel compare to your DFVs?
