RX7R1

Here is the list of mods I have been considering to purchase to increase reliability and power on a stock R1 with 30k miles:

Efini Y-Pipe: $240
Greddy 3-Piece Intercooler Piping Kit: $310 ($359 with Injector Boss for BOV, is it worth the additional cost?)
Pettit AST: $149
M2 SS DP: $295
Radiator: $419 (PWR) or $490 (M2 Performance...What does the extra cost add over the PWR?)
Greddy Ti Exhaust: $610
Ceramic Coated UIM: $200 (Other than looks, it worth the cost?)
Apexi PFC: $900 (I plan to run between 11-12PSI on the stock turbos...Will a boost controller also be needed?)

I'm looking for suggestions regarding the above or other parts to consider. This would be assuming a budget of 2.5K to include other associated costs (i.e., gaskets, gauges, and new O2 sensor).

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Sounds pretty good. I don't think you'll get much if any bang for the buck on the coated upper intake manifold - I'd wait until you had more mods and stuff done first.

Do you have a boost and water temp gauge? That's a must-have.

I don't know if you'll pick up that much with the Greddy piping kit - again, not a lot of bang for the buck. Might be more worthwhile to look into an aftermarket intercooler down the road - most IC's come with all new piping, and you'd end up with a lot of piping you didn't need any more.

I'm not 100% sure if you really need a boost controller with the PowerFC. Something I need to research some more . Not sure on the radiators either, but I'm sure others will chime in.

I'd also make sure all the little things are taken care of - plugs, plug wires, thermostat, fuel filter, etc. No sense having a hooked up car if the basic mainenance needs attention .

Good luck!
Dale

rynberg

Welcome to the club. Please read through the newbie stickies and use the search function. I'll get you started though --

Efini y-pipe is certainly not a "first-mod" type of item. Save it for later when running higher boost or wait until your couplers are split -- gives you an excuse to spend the money.

The Greddy piping will just look nice and basically not do much, other than heat soak. Save your money.

Aluminum AST is a must-have item -- go with anybody's.

A downpipe is also a must-have item. M2 is out of business, just get a quality SS piece.

Just get the PWR, Koyo, or Fluidyne. The PWR/Fluidyne have less fitment issues than the Koyo but cost more. There is little reason to "upgrade" the radiator if your stock one is in good shape.

If you want to spend $600 on an exhaust, go for it. It will probably be fairly loud. You can get a quieter more mellow tone from a Racing Beat or used M2/PFS.

A ceramic-coated UIM? Don't bother.

You don't NEED the Apexi PFC right away, but it's a great choice. You will also NEED the Commander and/or the Data-Logit for it. The PFC controls boost...sort of. Some people have good luck with it but a separate boost controller typically works better. You may not need a boost controller for those mods anyway as you will likely be running 11-12 psi.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do basic maintenance and drive the car fairly stock for a while before doing anything else. This car is powerful and light and can be a real handful for people not used to that combination. There is no need to rush out and mod the crap out of the thing, it is very enjoyable near stock. Have fun.

Oh, and buy a boost and water temp gauge. They are invaluable and should be considered a must-have before other modifications. The PFC Commander can display boost and water temp, but an "analog" boost gauge is much easier to read than a digital readout.

DGblk93

You have to do the AST. If you keep the stock AST - it could split and you'll have massive coolant loss in seconds - leads to overheat - the worst thing in the world for the rotary. If you order from Pettit, get the Stanless DP from them too in the same order. They have high quality stuff and Jeff (answers the sales phone line) is full of good advice. The DP is a must too.

mecman

iTrader: (11)

I agree with the others. Start with the reliability mods like the vacuum hose job, DP, and AST. As for the PFC, I don't have one but the forum on ECUs says you need a boost controller with the Apexi PFC.

RX7R1

I meant to add...I have a boost and water temperature gauge on order that will be installed soon. I'm undecided on the location to install (either on the A-pillar or a three gauge panel to install in the stereo location).

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Y-pipe is a slight power adder.
Greddy IC piping is a waste of $$. Stock IC pipes are fine.
AST, good.
DP, good.
Rad, good if you get it to fit right.
Greddy Ti, OK.
UIM coating, not a reliability mod.
PFC, needed if you plan to run 11-12 psi.

DamonB

What most people feel this car "needs" is way overblown. Assuming you're starting with a well maintained car (hoses, suspension bushings, brakes, fluids etc all in good shape) you really need only a few things. If the car is not already in good shape mechanically then all that work must be done first.

A downpipe and aluminum AST are a must and so are a boost gauge and an aftermarket water temp gauge. Anything after that is not needed for a reliable car.

I have a stock car that is daily driven 10,000-15,000 miles a year. The only mods on it other than the shocks and swaybar I added for competition are a downpipe and catback, silicone vacuum hoses, boost and water temp gauges and some intake ducting around the stock radiator I built to help keep cool when on the track. This on a car that is daily driven as well as driven very hard on the weekends during autox events and track days.

If there are already parts on the car that need replacing (coolant hoses for instance. No matter how few miles they are very old already) modding the car doesn't help reliability. Once you have a very sound stock car then perhaps you can make some changes if you decide you want to.

RX7R1

Thanks...I've been a member for many years (previously had a 93 VR R1) but was gone for a while during my Miata days...Now I'm back.

A nOOb once again...I think I got it.

I was planning on this one, as the car still has the stock couplers. After 12 years, I figure it might be a good time to replace.

Thanks for the input. I guess I should pass on that one.

Is this true? I looked at the M2 site today and it was up...I guess Pettit would be a good alternative?

Thanks, I think I'll go with the PWR. The stock one is in good shape but figured it would be better to replace considering the mods and warmer temperatures on the way.

Thanks...I like the Greddy Ti, but guess I'll save some cash by not getting the UIM.

I'm looking to control spikes once the above is installed and also have the option for future upgrades. Would it be better to get the boost controller at this point or will the PFC suffice for my current needs? I do not want to hit fuel cut-off as I believe that happens at 12 PSI using the stock ECU.

I could not agree more.

Those are on order.

alberto_mg

"'m looking to control spikes once the above is installed and also have the option for future upgrades. Would it be better to get the boost controller at this point or will the PFC suffice for my current needs? I do not want to hit fuel cut-off as I believe that happens at 12 PSI using the stock ECU."

It depends on the car. I'd say try the mods and see how your car runs. If you get spiking get the boost controller. Greddy Profec B works well on this car.

The PFC may or may not control boost well. It didn't do a good job on my car but worked on others.

Here is a good link for ya too: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/mod-list-keep-your-fd-running-happy-28002/