Hey there fellas, basically My FD is stock right now and I would like to modify it.

I will be picking up an AST/ or eliminating it
Silicone Hoses...but damn thats a lot of hoses.
Downpipe -I hear it helps keep the engine temps down
Fluidyne Radiator-another way to help engine temps
Apexi Power Intake- I hear the stock airbox pulls hot air backwards and I believe this one doesn't
Efini-Y pipe

RacingBeat Dual Exhaust- because I can't hear anthing with the stock exhaust.

What ecu would be recommended for someone with these mods? Would I need to modify anything else to accomodate these mods?

I was thinking of getting the Pettit Unlimited but that supports a hellava lot more mods than I will need/get. I am basically doing the reliablity mods.

Any of your insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

That list seems to be good, but before you buy anything, read these really quick. They have alot of helpful info on this topic. But still, you seem to have made good choices on what to get.

http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/reliabiltiy.htm

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/mod-list-keep-your-fd-running-happy-28002/

Regarding the ECU, even though its not necessary, I would reccomend the Apexi Power FC due to the fact that it is customizable, and you can tune it specifically to the mods you have. If you wanna save money, the petit and M2 ECU's are great, but if you dont mind spending the extra money, go for the PFC. Many people will say the same.

Anyways, this is just my opinion and other people will chime in with theirs. I hope my post helped a bit in making your decision.

Good luck.

 

Ditto on the PFC....even if you don't mod the car much, you will still have a better running car with the PFC (8 bit x 16 bit). You'll get flexibility, gauges (commander), and if you currently have the 3K hesitation, it will DISAPPEAR with the PFC.

Think long term. Good luck.

BTW, There are some used ones f/s in the parts section. It's best to get it tuned by a pro.

 

If you're not having any boost issues and your end tanks are not cracked, then it is *not* mandatory to replace your vacuum hoses or radiator. If you want to get rid of your money, give it to me.

I don't know what you heard about the stock airbox and it taking in hot air, but that's a load of BS, that is, unless you're referring to a modified airbox with holes cut in it and you provide no ducting.

And before you get any sort of EMS, check out this page first:

http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlan.../3modrule.html

 

Something wrong with the stock ECU? It can handle more mods than you think. In fact, you can run all the basic bolt-ons (DP, CB, intake) + IC w/ it, get a boost controller, set it @ 10 PSI max and you'll be just fine. Read the page I linked to in my post above. $1600+ for a new PFC + Commander + tuning is a lot of money to throw away if you don't need it.

 

go whatever your rotary mechanic has preference to tuning.
of course as is apparent through the forums, thats most likely the pfc though i think the microtechs are much better for rotaries.

that said, your stock ecu should handle the mods just fine so long as you can keep your boost under control (under 10psi)

 

SK: I don't necessarily disagree with anything you've written, however I still stand with my little post.

In fact, I used Wade's sheet as my rationale for sticking with my stock ecu after four mod.s and with no problems. However, I wish that the PFC was my 2nd or 3rd mod--it would have saved 3 years of farting around with grounds and tests to lessen the 3k hesitation as well as being able to see what the ecu sees and the sensor diagnostics, etcetera. This, along with the benefits I listed above are why I FEEL the PFC, outside the $1,700 for unit/commander/tune, has no real down-side whether he's going to stay at 2-3 mod.s and especially if he plans for more modifications.

Thanks.

Edit: There ARE some down-sides (sort-of): The PFC will not operate the EGR, the check engine light is moved to the exhaust heat warning light, and the commander clutters the console.

 

What value (other than cosmetic and sound) is there in adding a dp, cb, and intake if you are going to keep the boost at 10 psi? I was talking to a friend about the mods I've done, and he asked "whats the point? if you're getting the same air and the same fuel, you're making the same power"? I guess there are benefits like quicker spool and less heat from pre-cat, but anything else?

And understand, I currently have a k&n + ebay pipes intake, racing beat dual catback, and I'm going to add a downpipe, so I'm not flaming anybody. I added a cheap boost controller to keep it at stock, but have not yet made the jump to a pfc. Just wondering if there is any benefit other than looks, sound, and the fun of doing the work yourself.

 

Your friend is wrong. You will make significantly more power with bolt-ons, even at the same boost level. I made ~255 rwhp at 10 psi with dp, cb, intake and SMIC. That's quite a bit more than stock, with quicker spooling turbos and cooler operation (turbos aren't working as hard).

Rx-7_Enthusiast:

Listen to speedking.

1. If you aren't having boost problems, leave the hoses alone.
2. If your radiator end tanks are in good shape, leave it alone. Otherwise replace with aluminum rad of your choice. Make sure to seal the aftermarket rad.
3. Mazda did in fact discover that the stock intake will put hot engine air back through stock intercooler under very certain conditions. HOWEVER, the Apexi or any other open intake will pull hot engine air in ALL THE TIME. Not an improvement. If you are keeping your stock intercooler, I would perform Adamc's cheap bastard intake mod or similar.
4. You can run all of the bolt-ons at 10 psi with the stock ecu very safely. You will need an aftermarket ecu if you want to raise the boost above 10 psi. With a few bolt-ons, you will need a boost controller to maintain 10 psi.

 

Just because you are still at 10psi doesn't mean the air is flowing at the same rate

 

Air flow vs. pressure will quickly get out of my realm of expertise (programming) without alot of explanation, so I'll just trust that increased air flow is possible at the same psi...

Rynberg, when you say SMIC is that aftermarket or stock? I imagine a more efficient intercooler (non-stock) would cool the air more resulting in higher power even at stock psi?

 

I think he has a PFS SMIC... which is more efficient at cooling the air along with less pressure drop across the intercooler.

 

I can see how a more efficient intercooler would help then, even at stock psi.