When reading up about my 2.5-3k hesitation problem, i came across these quick 30 min jobs where you would re-ground your battery wires.

I didnt think it could be so easy. Problem = SOLVED =)

Kas's Quick Fix
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Tools: 10mm Spanner , Thick wire Brush, Steel Wool, Silicone spray.

What to do: Remove the battery cover. Remove the Negative (-) or Black wire. Using the Wire brush, scrub around the battery terminal. Get the steel wool inside the metal bracket and scrub the crap out untul it turns shiny. Repeat with the (+) Positave side while your there.

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I also went a little further and attached some thick sterio wire from the (-) terminal on the battery to a nearby Chassie bolt.

The throttle response has improved. My idle is now somewhat smoother and low rev driving is now enjoyable!

 

Report back in a week... many of the fixes where you disconnect the battery work for a week or so and then the problem returns. It seems disconnecting the battery provides temporary relief, but the problems usually come back.

I tried grounds, injector cleaning, etc. and none of it provided a real fix. I finally switched to a PowerFC and it solved the problem for good. The car has no 3K hesitation and generally runs much smoother with the PowerFC.

-Max

 

Thanks max, i will keep an eye on it.

 

it's amazing that all these rotary people on here and specialists all over the world and nobody still has a definate answer to why there is a 3k hesitation on some cars and not others

I know there have been many thoughts on why it happens but no definate answers

 

Yeah i see what you mean.

Maybe so many people just want the power, that they are willing to ignore the little problems?

 

is it just the PFC that will fix the hesitation and bad idle, or will any reprogrammed ecu work?

 

One response that I heard was that the hesitation was from the secondary injectors kicking in causing a temporary low fuel situation in the fuel rail.... Anyone care to comment?

 

I've noticed that during my 3K hesitation, the vacuum fluctuates by 2 inches or so less, so say I'm accelerating steadily at 10 inches vacuum, at 3K the gauge rises by 2 inches to 8, then drops back to 10 when acceleration resumes. Accelerating at say 14 inches (just loafing it) I get no hesitation. I will check hesitation at 0 inches acceleration.

I guess we who still have it should try and map it, looking at vacuum signal, gear you're in, vehicle speed, and engine temp. Then compare results to look for trends. Or just keep putting band-aids on the problem

 

I also heard regroundin the battery and main fuse would fix this, my car never did the hesitation but I did it anyway...

 

Naturaly, when the hesitation kicks in, power is lost, hence your vacume change.

After close inspection of my current grounding areas, the buildup of minerals around it would suggest less connection.

A quick clean up and a small addition of a new grounding wire fixed it for me. I will contunie to monitor it closely, but for now it seems fine.