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Master kit vs Basic kit? (rebuild)

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Old 07-08-05, 05:30 PM
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Master kit vs Basic kit? (rebuild)

Hi,

Been looking at rebuild kits all over the net, and it seems that the "master" rebuild kits offered everywhere are $450 more than the "basic" rebuild kits and the only difference is that you get 12 side seals and 12 corner seals, plus an oil pump chain.

My engine is a 65k mile well cared for engine with a recent o-ring failure. I am obviously unsure as to warping of rotor housings as the engine is still in the car and being driven; it drives fine.

My question is, are side seals and corner seals worth the $450 extra? I am not sure which these are so cannot make a judgement...

if anyone would care to post a picture of a rotor and point out which seals are what it'd be great also!

thanks guys
Old 07-08-05, 05:43 PM
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get the master kit. it's open, do a complete rebuilt. in the big picture, it's not worth $450 to half *** it.
Old 07-08-05, 05:52 PM
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i understand what you are saying silver, but im on a budget and would rather do the rebuild sooner rather than later. I can buy the basic kit at the end of the month, but the master kit i will need to save a little longer for...

I guess ill just hold out...
Old 07-08-05, 06:33 PM
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Are you sure that is it...show us some of the info you are looking at and we might be able to help more!
Old 07-08-05, 06:40 PM
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Here are the details, i have italicised the parts on the master kit that dont come in the basic kit.

Are these really ESSENTIAL to replace at rebuild time? what detrimental effects will not doing them have?

Basic overhaul kit at Rotary Resource:

2 - Engine thrust bearings
1 - Main (internal) Gasket Set*
4 - Rotor O-ring Large
4 - Rotor O-ring Small

1 - Rear Main Oil Seal
1 - Front Main Oil Seal

12 - Corner Seal Plugs
12 - Corner Seal Springs

12 - Side Seal Springs
1 - Thermal Pellet Plug
1 set - Apex Seals
1 set - Apex Seal Springs

1 - Hylomar®
1 - Silicone
1 - Brushable Sealant
1 - Supplemental instructions


Master kit

2 - Engine thrust bearings
1 - Main (internal) Gasket Set*
4 - Rotor O-ring Lg
4 - Rotor O-ring Sm

1 - Rear Main Oil Seal
1 - Front Main Oil Seal

12 - Corner Seal
12 - Corner Seal Plug
12 - Corner Seal Spring

12 - Side Seals
12 - Side Seal Spring
1 - Oil Pump Chain
1 - Rotor Oil Seal Set
1 - Thermal Pellet Plug
12 - Side Seal Spring
1 set - Apex Seals
1 set - Apex Seal Springs

1 - Hylomar®
1 - Silicone
1 - Brushable Sealant
1 - Supplemental instructions
Old 07-08-05, 07:08 PM
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that seems a little high for those few parts I figure on the high end corner seal $10 *12 =$120
side seal $10*12=$120 oil pump chain $40 oil seal set $80
total $360 But I was on the high end...I priced this from MazdaTrix and up the price just to make adding easier... probably more likely around $300-320 ish... Unless they aren't telling what else is included, I don't see why this is so much more...Try looking at akins rotary for a comparison...Maybe you could buy the extra stuf from Mazdatrix for less...I've never rebuild my own engine before so I'm no expert on this area...Mybe some of the engine rebuilders can help you more!
Old 07-08-05, 07:25 PM
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In that case, order Bruce Turrentine's rebuild video. He shows you how to spec out and measure all the pieces and determine if they can be used. In the end, you can probably reuse a lot.

Just remember, the cost of rebuild is more than just the kit - tools, cleaners, lubes, sealant, etc... is also required. I don't know what you have - but I have a pretty decent tool box, and I ended up having to borrow items, as well as purchase items to complete the rebuild.

Anyway, best of luck with the rebuild. It's not hard -
Old 07-08-05, 07:31 PM
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I started mine today, except my motor only has 6000km on it. I think I have a bad corner seal.

Good Luck
Old 07-08-05, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by silver93
In that case, order Bruce Turrentine's rebuild video. He shows you how to spec out and measure all the pieces and determine if they can be used. In the end, you can probably reuse a lot.

Just remember, the cost of rebuild is more than just the kit - tools, cleaners, lubes, sealant, etc... is also required. I don't know what you have - but I have a pretty decent tool box, and I ended up having to borrow items, as well as purchase items to complete the rebuild.

Anyway, best of luck with the rebuild. It's not hard -
Got bruces video, arrived in the mail today! haha.

I know what your saying about the cost of rebuild, i have budgeted for extra parts though such as vac lines, new solenoids if required, cleaning chemicals, paints etc etc.
Old 07-08-05, 09:09 PM
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cool - i rebuilt mine using the same video about 1 1/2 ago - just set the TV up where you're working, and you'll be set. best of luck-
Old 07-09-05, 03:26 AM
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If your engine is to remain stock, you could get away with the basic rebuild kit. The side and corner seals are sure to be well within spec with your engines current mileage.
Old 07-09-05, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by t-von
If your engine is to remain stock, you could get away with the basic rebuild kit. The side and corner seals are sure to be well within spec with your engines current mileage.
Maybe, and that is a big maybe. Would you want to take that chance?
Old 07-09-05, 10:10 AM
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While we're at it, what's the difference between the TII or NA 13B kits and the 13B-REW kits?
Old 07-09-05, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Trexthe3rd
Maybe, and that is a big maybe. Would you want to take that chance?


What chance? Those seals will easily last over 200k. There's no reason to replace them in a rebuild of a 60k mile engine. Because of their location the side and corner seals can take more abuse than the apex seals. They don't get heated from both sides like the apex seals do. Also they are under less spring tension and don't have the centrifugal forces acting upon them like the apex seals do. I've pulled engines apart with over 140k and the side and corner seals were well within spec. Even Rotaryresurrection admits to re-using these seals in some of his cheaper rebuilds. Now don't get me wrong, I wouldn't reuse these seals in a modified engine build. If the engine is to remain at stock hp levels, they will be ok.
Old 07-09-05, 07:50 PM
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BobfisH,

It's best just to wait until you tear it apart before ordering parts. You really never know what you are going to need until you actually see (and inspect).
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