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Manual brakes/brake booster removal?

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Old 04-04-23, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MilesBFree
To make sure i am reading this correctly, you connected 1 MC to the left front and rear together, and the other MC to the two right side calipers? I may be wrong, but i have never seen that before. Usually the fronts are tied to one MC, and the rears to the other.

Given that the front calipers usually have more and larger pistons than the rears, they need more fluid. Hence the balance bar in the original post - adjusts bias front and rear.

I have that Valspeed MC setup on my car. I considered something similar for when I added hydroboost power brakes to my '65 Land-Rover but decided to go to a balance valve instead - a little easier to adjust. (The valve is in front of the remote reservoirs.)
Not sure of how that setup works, but for the Tilton underfoot pedal assembly I have, one MC goes to the front brakes, and the other MC goes to the rear brakes. For example, i cannot open a single front caliper bleed screw because I'm still pushing against the rear calipers. This is why I said to bleed a side at a time. Tilton outlines this fairly well.

Last edited by quichedem; 04-04-23 at 10:22 AM.
Old 04-04-23, 01:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by quichedem
...for the Tilton underfoot pedal assembly I have, one MC goes to the front brakes, and the other MC goes to the rear brakes.
That is how the Valspeed and all other systems I have designed/set up work and is how most systems work*. MC1 pushes RF and LF calipers. MC2 pushes RR and LR calipers.

I think we are saying the same thing; if not my bad.

* I have heard of some doing diagonal, e.g., R front and L rear. That would give some VERY wonky handling if one diagonal circuit failed in the middle of a turn. Or even driving in a straight line. But that would still bleed ok.
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