Make your own plug&play adapter harness for 99-spec lights
07-26-16, 07:27 AM
#1
Make your own plug&play adapter harness for 99-spec lights
I thought i could write up a super quick guide on how to make your own adapters for the 99-spec Stanley lights, and also where to find the correct parts. I did this so i didn't have to cut and ruin my 94 spec lights harness, in case i want to go back to the old looks.
Tools needed:
- Solder iron
- Sharp knife
- Solder Flux
- Crimper tool for wire terminals
- Lead/automotive solder (lead i soft and can stand vibrations)
- Heatshrink tubing
- Silicone glue
Parts needed:
- Thick O-rings to make new new seals.
- 2x Econoseal-J MKII-3 Female connector
- 2x T10/T15 bulb sockets with pigtails
- 2x 1156/Reverse Light sockets with pigtails
How to make the adapter:
1 - Fix the connectors.
As most other cheap china produced parts, the ebay bulb sockets are not of superb quality. This means that you need to mod them a bit for them to fit perfectly.
1.1 - First you need to seal up the wire holes with silicone, so that the lights wont get moisture inside them. Just a few drops of silicone at the time, and poke it with a straw to make sure it seals well. (ideally you can use a syringe)
1.2 - Then you need to change out the gasket/seal that comes with the china parts, with some thinker O-rings. The china parts are only a 98% fit on the Stanleys so a thicker gasket is needed for a complete seal.
2 - Identify the wires
The OEM lights will have a similar harness connecting to the lights as the one we are making. It has 3 wires: Ground, Park, Blink.
2.1 - Make a drawing where you note what wire goes to what part of the connector you plug in the cars harness (Econoseal-J). They should both share ground (black if i remember correct) and then Park and Blinker lights should have one other wire each.
2.2 - Double check that both sides are the same.
3 - Solder the harness
When making the harness you have two options. You can either try to use only the pigtails, supplied with the bulb sockets as wires (less soldering), or you can lengthen all the wires to get more space to work with. I used only the pigtails, but then its a tight fit. I will outline that method under, but if you want longer wires, just solder that in place before crimping the pins on the wires.
3.1 - Crimp one wire on each socket with the pins supplied with the Econoseal connector. Those are going to be the Park and Blinker signals.
3.2 - Trim away a small part of the wire insulation on the middle of one of the remaining wires (maybe 1-1.5cm). Be very careful so you dont cut the wire itself.
3.3 - Solder the end of the untouched wire, to the bare area where you trimmed away the insulation. Both sockets should be on the same side of the connection. I suggest using a lot of Flux and that you make sure the wire is saturated with solder for a good connection. Also make sure the wire dont get to hot or the insulation will melt.
3.4 - Pull a piece of crimp tubing over the area and heat it until it is done crimping.
3.5 - Crimp the last pin to the remaining unpinned end.
4 - Complete the harness
Go back to your drawing and identify what wire goes where.
4.1 - Small T10/T15 socket is for parking lights.
4.2 - Big 1156 socket is for blinkers
4.3 - Soldered wire is for ground.
4.4 - Insert the terminals to the connector, and push down the yellow piece to lock them in place. Make sure the pins are the correct way before locking them. The drawing is just an illustration of the whole setup, and not of the wire placement.
4.5 - Test the lights on the car.
Tools needed:
- Solder iron
- Sharp knife
- Solder Flux
- Crimper tool for wire terminals
- Lead/automotive solder (lead i soft and can stand vibrations)
- Heatshrink tubing
- Silicone glue
Parts needed:
- Thick O-rings to make new new seals.
- 2x Econoseal-J MKII-3 Female connector
- 2x T10/T15 bulb sockets with pigtails
- 2x 1156/Reverse Light sockets with pigtails
How to make the adapter:
1 - Fix the connectors.
As most other cheap china produced parts, the ebay bulb sockets are not of superb quality. This means that you need to mod them a bit for them to fit perfectly.
1.1 - First you need to seal up the wire holes with silicone, so that the lights wont get moisture inside them. Just a few drops of silicone at the time, and poke it with a straw to make sure it seals well. (ideally you can use a syringe)
1.2 - Then you need to change out the gasket/seal that comes with the china parts, with some thinker O-rings. The china parts are only a 98% fit on the Stanleys so a thicker gasket is needed for a complete seal.
2 - Identify the wires
The OEM lights will have a similar harness connecting to the lights as the one we are making. It has 3 wires: Ground, Park, Blink.
2.1 - Make a drawing where you note what wire goes to what part of the connector you plug in the cars harness (Econoseal-J). They should both share ground (black if i remember correct) and then Park and Blinker lights should have one other wire each.
2.2 - Double check that both sides are the same.
3 - Solder the harness
When making the harness you have two options. You can either try to use only the pigtails, supplied with the bulb sockets as wires (less soldering), or you can lengthen all the wires to get more space to work with. I used only the pigtails, but then its a tight fit. I will outline that method under, but if you want longer wires, just solder that in place before crimping the pins on the wires.
3.1 - Crimp one wire on each socket with the pins supplied with the Econoseal connector. Those are going to be the Park and Blinker signals.
3.2 - Trim away a small part of the wire insulation on the middle of one of the remaining wires (maybe 1-1.5cm). Be very careful so you dont cut the wire itself.
3.3 - Solder the end of the untouched wire, to the bare area where you trimmed away the insulation. Both sockets should be on the same side of the connection. I suggest using a lot of Flux and that you make sure the wire is saturated with solder for a good connection. Also make sure the wire dont get to hot or the insulation will melt.
3.4 - Pull a piece of crimp tubing over the area and heat it until it is done crimping.
3.5 - Crimp the last pin to the remaining unpinned end.
4 - Complete the harness
Go back to your drawing and identify what wire goes where.
4.1 - Small T10/T15 socket is for parking lights.
4.2 - Big 1156 socket is for blinkers
4.3 - Soldered wire is for ground.
4.4 - Insert the terminals to the connector, and push down the yellow piece to lock them in place. Make sure the pins are the correct way before locking them. The drawing is just an illustration of the whole setup, and not of the wire placement.
4.5 - Test the lights on the car.
Last edited by Zepticon; 07-27-16 at 02:14 AM.
07-26-16, 09:50 AM
#3
Agreed. FANTASTIC write-up.
The alternative is ordering from HotWaterLabs for $30.
HotWater Labs ? HWL FD-STANLEY TURN SIGNAL HARNESS (pair)
-M
The alternative is ordering from HotWaterLabs for $30.
HotWater Labs ? HWL FD-STANLEY TURN SIGNAL HARNESS (pair)
-M
Trending Topics
02-11-20, 02:25 AM
#10
UPDATE: Photobucket killed the links, so i updated them to my own hosted site.
I thought i could write up a super quick guide on how to make your own adapters for the 99-spec Stanley lights, and also where to find the correct parts. I did this so i didn't have to cut and ruin my 94 spec lights harness, in case i want to go back to the old looks.
Tools needed:
- Solder iron
- Sharp knife
- Solder Flux
- Crimper tool for wire terminals
- Lead/automotive solder (lead i soft and can stand vibrations)
- Heatshrink tubing
- Silicone glue
Parts needed:
- Thick O-rings to make new new seals.
- 2x Econoseal-J MKII-3 Female connector
- 2x T10/T15 bulb sockets with pigtails
- 2x 1156/Reverse Light sockets with pigtails
How to make the adapter:
1 - Fix the connectors.
As most other cheap china produced parts, the ebay bulb sockets are not of superb quality. This means that you need to mod them a bit for them to fit perfectly.
1.1 - First you need to seal up the wire holes with silicone, so that the lights wont get moisture inside them. Just a few drops of silicone at the time, and poke it with a straw to make sure it seals well. (ideally you can use a syringe)
1.2 - Then you need to change out the gasket/seal that comes with the china parts, with some thinker O-rings. The china parts are only a 98% fit on the Stanleys so a thicker gasket is needed for a complete seal.
2 - Identify the wires
The OEM lights will have a similar harness connecting to the lights as the one we are making. It has 3 wires: Ground, Park, Blink.
2.1 - Make a drawing where you note what wire goes to what part of the connector you plug in the cars harness (Econoseal-J). They should both share ground (black if i remember correct) and then Park and Blinker lights should have one other wire each.
2.2 - Double check that both sides are the same.
3 - Solder the harness
When making the harness you have two options. You can either try to use only the pigtails, supplied with the bulb sockets as wires (less soldering), or you can lengthen all the wires to get more space to work with. I used only the pigtails, but then its a tight fit. I will outline that method under, but if you want longer wires, just solder that in place before crimping the pins on the wires.
3.1 - Crimp one wire on each socket with the pins supplied with the Econoseal connector. Those are going to be the Park and Blinker signals.
3.2 - Trim away a small part of the wire insulation on the middle of one of the remaining wires (maybe 1-1.5cm). Be very careful so you dont cut the wire itself.
3.3 - Solder the end of the untouched wire, to the bare area where you trimmed away the insulation. Both sockets should be on the same side of the connection. I suggest using a lot of Flux and that you make sure the wire is saturated with solder for a good connection. Also make sure the wire dont get to hot or the insulation will melt.
3.4 - Pull a piece of crimp tubing over the area and heat it until it is done crimping.
3.5 - Crimp the last pin to the remaining unpinned end.
4 - Complete the harness
Go back to your drawing and identify what wire goes where.
4.1 - Small T10/T15 socket is for parking lights.
4.2 - Big 1156 socket is for blinkers
4.3 - Soldered wire is for ground.
4.4 - Insert the terminals to the connector, and push down the yellow piece to lock them in place. Make sure the pins are the correct way before locking them. The drawing is just an illustration of the whole setup, and not of the wire placement.
4.5 - Test the lights on the car.
I thought i could write up a super quick guide on how to make your own adapters for the 99-spec Stanley lights, and also where to find the correct parts. I did this so i didn't have to cut and ruin my 94 spec lights harness, in case i want to go back to the old looks.
Tools needed:
- Solder iron
- Sharp knife
- Solder Flux
- Crimper tool for wire terminals
- Lead/automotive solder (lead i soft and can stand vibrations)
- Heatshrink tubing
- Silicone glue
Parts needed:
- Thick O-rings to make new new seals.
- 2x Econoseal-J MKII-3 Female connector
- 2x T10/T15 bulb sockets with pigtails
- 2x 1156/Reverse Light sockets with pigtails
How to make the adapter:
1 - Fix the connectors.
As most other cheap china produced parts, the ebay bulb sockets are not of superb quality. This means that you need to mod them a bit for them to fit perfectly.
1.1 - First you need to seal up the wire holes with silicone, so that the lights wont get moisture inside them. Just a few drops of silicone at the time, and poke it with a straw to make sure it seals well. (ideally you can use a syringe)
1.2 - Then you need to change out the gasket/seal that comes with the china parts, with some thinker O-rings. The china parts are only a 98% fit on the Stanleys so a thicker gasket is needed for a complete seal.
2 - Identify the wires
The OEM lights will have a similar harness connecting to the lights as the one we are making. It has 3 wires: Ground, Park, Blink.
2.1 - Make a drawing where you note what wire goes to what part of the connector you plug in the cars harness (Econoseal-J). They should both share ground (black if i remember correct) and then Park and Blinker lights should have one other wire each.
2.2 - Double check that both sides are the same.
3 - Solder the harness
When making the harness you have two options. You can either try to use only the pigtails, supplied with the bulb sockets as wires (less soldering), or you can lengthen all the wires to get more space to work with. I used only the pigtails, but then its a tight fit. I will outline that method under, but if you want longer wires, just solder that in place before crimping the pins on the wires.
3.1 - Crimp one wire on each socket with the pins supplied with the Econoseal connector. Those are going to be the Park and Blinker signals.
3.2 - Trim away a small part of the wire insulation on the middle of one of the remaining wires (maybe 1-1.5cm). Be very careful so you dont cut the wire itself.
3.3 - Solder the end of the untouched wire, to the bare area where you trimmed away the insulation. Both sockets should be on the same side of the connection. I suggest using a lot of Flux and that you make sure the wire is saturated with solder for a good connection. Also make sure the wire dont get to hot or the insulation will melt.
3.4 - Pull a piece of crimp tubing over the area and heat it until it is done crimping.
3.5 - Crimp the last pin to the remaining unpinned end.
4 - Complete the harness
Go back to your drawing and identify what wire goes where.
4.1 - Small T10/T15 socket is for parking lights.
4.2 - Big 1156 socket is for blinkers
4.3 - Soldered wire is for ground.
4.4 - Insert the terminals to the connector, and push down the yellow piece to lock them in place. Make sure the pins are the correct way before locking them. The drawing is just an illustration of the whole setup, and not of the wire placement.
4.5 - Test the lights on the car.
Last edited by Zepticon; 02-11-20 at 04:40 AM.
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