Mindphrame

I'm confused as all hell right now. Is it supposed to be more or less a free floating deal? There are no mounting brackets or holes at all.




It seems to sit too high on the cross member (only thing I can think of to call it) and also would be sitting metal on metal. Does that bar need to be removed to make room? It doesn't seem to be doing anything other then providing a place for hoses off the condenser to be clipped and has little to no strength. Doesn't seem to be giving any added support, like a torque bar or engine brace. Indicated in picture with the pink line.




I searched a bit an see that the AST either needs to be eliminated or mounted elsewhere.

I have a m2 Cool air intake and just got the Koyo rad back into the stock position so that the M2 intake actually fits proper finally after about 6 years of not bothering with it. I've had this SMIC equally as long but since the intake wouldn't fit, I knew there was no way in hell that the intercooler would fit. So I never even looked at it really.

The pipes also seem to be oddly angled. Anyway, after working on that damn radiator for so long I was hoping this would just drop in more or less. Whoops.

Anyone with the M2 SMIC installed, can you post pictures or point me in the direction that some are?

Many thanks.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

I bought a thick rubber weather strip at Home Depot with an adhesive backing and placed it along the line you indicate. The piping and the duct keep it very secure. People have reported tracking their car extensively with this layout without issue.

DigDug

I used some 2" wide velcro strip along the bottom to hold it in place to the crossmember, makes it easy to R&R the IC later. Can't remember where I read about using that stuff but it works perfectly. The duct and pipes hold it securely and the velcro keeps the bottom from shifting around.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

I have mine sitting on the crossmember with a strip of spongy material to keep the core from getting scratched up on the bottom. If your charge pipes and TB elbow are compatible with the IC, it should pretty much press right up against the duct.

And besides you don't want to "fix" the IC to anything. Your motor will twist when you run it hard, and if the IC is fixed from movement you're going to stress out the connections to the charge pipes & IC. A great reason for a boost leak.

If you want some pics, I can take some later this week. Lemme know.

Sukai94

Same problem here! Pictures would be great!

danny hahn

What you'll love about it is how quickly it comes out, easily saves a half hour.

glued 1/4 inch rubber pad to the bottom of the IC to sit on the crossmember. used household silicone or polyurethane adhesive for glue.

I felt I had to do a lot of trimming to get it to fit, but was happy with the results.

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

i used dyomat on both the bottom of the ic and the crossmenber. I had no problems.
Also, did you remove all the bolts on the crossmenber?

Mindphrame

Mother of god. Getting that thing in is like trying to suck a golf ball though a garden hose.

It is a tight...tight fit. The pipes are an odd fit. I either did something wrong (probable) or they don't line up at all without the silicone coupler doing most of the work. Damn near have to be pipe on pipe with the silicone coupling pushed all the way up the pipe on one side, then sliding it down to slowly work over the adjoining pipe while holding it in place. I had to afro engineer the mounting bracket and re-plumb the AST, since I had no way to eliminate it at this time.

Since I was changing my radiator hoses anyway, I cut off the rubber-ish protective sleeve off the old rad hose and wrapped it around the cross member. The IC just barely, if at all, touches that cross member. Unless I mucked something up, the radiator sits at a bit of a forward angle.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow. Right now, I'm going to take some drugs and a hot shower to attempt to put the raging flames in my back out.

I'm getting too old for this.

Anyway, Koyo "way to effin big" radiator, M2 Cold air intake, M2 Med SMIC with duct finally installed. Huzzah. Off to limp to my shower and groan like an old man along the way...

GARCO MOTORWORKS

On mine car the IC was to high as well so I removed the cross bar or mount bar ,you have in pink .I made a new one that is three parts so it is adjustable .That lowered the IC and I can tilt it so the IC lines up with the duct work .I also made a new battery tray that bolts in where it needed to be .The battery tray has threaded parts on each side so I can change batterys with post on any position . Easy as that .

Mindphrame

She is in dire need of some spit shining so I don't wanna hear crap about it! =P





Annnnnnd just since she hadn't seen daylight in ~2-3 years after sitting in the garage. She was drained of fluids and refilled, parts replaced, parts added, dusted off and fired up. She came to life and has never been happier. She is in dire need of a good bath but here she is! Alive and well!

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

looks good.

DMoneyRX-7

iTrader: (2)

looks awesome. Now what you need to do is finish removing your air pump, get a turbojeff battery tray for a 51r, and eliminate your AST.

Sukai94

**** I am worried about making mine fit...

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I second this. good eye, I didn't notice the air pump at first.

you can get the AST delete from Ray at Malloy, it's around 25 bucks.

Btw, this thread is hilarious.....I'm not laughing *at* you, I'm laughing *with* you

turBRO240

iTrader: (1)

I got aluminum brackets welded onto the SMIC than bolt to the frame.

Ill get pics tomorrow

DMoneyRX-7

iTrader: (2)

I'm wanting to do the AST delete, so all I need is the waterpump housing part from the FC then just reroute the coolant hoses?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Pretty sure it's an S4 piece, I just call Ray and say 'AST delete'

It's a plastic boss that bolts to the t-stat housing with two 10mm head bolts, comes with a new cap and o-ring. It has an additional nipple on the boss, which is for the coolant overflow line. the metal press-in nipple on the t-stat housing is for the line coming off the radiator.

DMoneyRX-7

iTrader: (2)

sweetness. Would I need to make any changes in coolant mix?

turBRO240

iTrader: (1)

No.

Coolant system capacity will be just a bit lower though.

Mindphrame

I think I'm going to end up keeping the AST. Though I'll actually take some time at some point to make a non afro engineered mounting bracket made up of a bent and trimmed stock IC mounting bracket =P I've been out of the loop for quite some time but I seem to remember the AST being a good idea, in theory at least. I already have the aluminum one so I'm not in danger of the plastic hot love dump stock model. Any reason come up in the past few years other then engine bay clutter that serves as a concrete reason to eliminate it that I don't know about?

The air pump on the other hand, I've wanted to yank for quite some time. It is actually locked up, though luckily it freewheels while unplugged. I assume that the preferred method still is a pulley replacement? Something about alternator and water pump tension being mucked up with just a smaller belt since the tension isn't applied the same anymore with the air pump being gone, so a larger pulley on both is recommended?

Man, it really has been quite a few years since I've been nosing around on this forum. I've started to forget everything =( Suppose I should have searched before posting but its 3 am and the laze has set in.

I assume rx7store.net is still a solid shopping choice for everything? IIRC Jason (?) used to be good people. Or is this something I should bring to 1-800-Ask-4Ray? I wonder what that number actually goes to. heh.

Oh, and whats a 51r?

DMoneyRX-7

iTrader: (2)

so you are eliminating your Air Pump? If you are wanting to order, it all depends. Rx-7 Store is great but only if their shipping is inline. Sometimes its very backed up. If not Rx-7 store I would go with someone in Texas for fast shipping times like rx7.com or gothamracing.com

You are going to need the block off plates and pulley kit.

51r is the kind of battery they put in Honda's. A guy (turbojeff) made a battery tray to hold it. They are just as good as the regular size battery the FD comes standard with but it frees up space behind the radiator and fans to allow better cooling. Especially since you now have a larger SMIC, something like this would be beneficial.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

For your application, you can keep the AST, just make sure you mount it as high as you can.

yup, if you delete the airpump you'll need a kit with larger diameter alt and wp pulleys along with a different belt. gotham sells a kit that has worked well for me.

51R is a smaller battery that mount in the stock location. Odyssey.

Mindphrame

Got the block off plates done years ago when I did the Sequential Simplification, so I'm covered there.

Looks like rx7store has the most inexpensive air pump elimination pulley kit at $115 vs the Greddy set at $135. Says that it is the same as the Greddy pulleys, so I guess I'll find out if they are of good quality. Gotham has one at $90, though it is an under drive, I'd rather not have my lights dim and radio clip while at idle. Since I won't be tracking my car anytime soon, the possibility of the water pump overheating is rather limited.

Great advice and info along the way. Many thanks for all the help guys.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

The gotham kit is the same as the rx7store kit, you won't notice any difference from the underdriving.