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lumpy idle...

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Old 10-01-03, 09:23 PM
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lumpy idle...

well just recently my FD strated getting lumpy idle...I hope it is just needing new plugs since it has been about 10k miles (i know...been travelling so much lately)...the vacuum has dropped on the PFC from 450 to lower 400s

I have hks twinpower and 10mm magnecore wires...car boosts great...if one of my plugs are fouled is it dangerous to the seals? do I need to replace the plugs asap? currenty, I am on the road.

Thanks
Old 10-02-03, 04:16 AM
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yeah, change the plugs and see if that helps. It can be dangerous for the engine to drive with fouled plugs. If this doesn't work, you better pray that these aren't early signs of you know what...
Old 10-02-03, 05:17 AM
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i had a lumpy idle when i pulled the ac-FUSE (d'oh).
because with pulled / burned fuse, the airpump doesnt work as well, and that gave me very strange idle. i first thought it's my plugs, because i smelled lots of unburned fuel and on cold start it even smoked for a few second. (no, no white smoke...)
just a hint, u never know.
Old 10-02-03, 07:15 AM
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no airpump, a/c works fine err as well as the pfc will let it. I will order plugs and have them changed...asap.

any other ideas?
Old 10-03-03, 10:19 AM
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I got my 'shitty idle' when I blocked everything off.
Any tips to fine tuning it?

Seems to be jumpy just when cold and sounds so awkward. Other than that, when warmed up its fine. I dont think its TPS related.

*note: I have my Thermowax screw all the way out, since removing the DT & AWS.

*and have only adjusted the idle screw on the TB.
Old 10-03-03, 10:25 AM
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Isn't an idle of 450 a bit on the low side? Just curious...
Old 10-03-03, 12:12 PM
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check the MAP sensor

Last edited by blackscorpio; 10-03-03 at 12:16 PM.
Old 10-03-03, 05:39 PM
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Originally posted by HeatTreated
I got my 'shitty idle' when I blocked everything off.
Any tips to fine tuning it?

Seems to be jumpy just when cold and sounds so awkward. Other than that, when warmed up its fine. I dont think its TPS related.

*note: I have my Thermowax screw all the way out, since removing the DT & AWS.

*and have only adjusted the idle screw on the TB.
Now when you say you blocked everything off, do you mean the emissions stuff, ie. block-off plates?
If so, you would have needed to take off your UIM to get to the ACV, right? This could be many, many things now if that's the case. It could be any of the check valves, vaccume hoses, or even the ecu ground...just to give you a few examples. Also, check to see if any of the originally capped tops are still capped and the tps stuff are back on securely.
Old 10-04-03, 07:30 PM
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I'm having the same problem right now too. Started last night after a couple full throttle runs with a Lightning. Its fine when I'm driving, but at idle, it seriously sounds like only one rotor is firing correctly. I have the retarded Magnecor wires, so I'm planning on changing them to NGK's as soon as I get a chance, but the plugs are pretty new 9's. New as in 2-3weeks.
Old 10-06-03, 08:59 AM
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Yes, Team B
I did remove everything. ACV included.
I highly doubt my TPS needs adjustment, but I havent messed with the other idle screw so, maybe I can smooth things out there. Its only when its cold and it starts 'hunting' Nothing major.
but annoying
Old 10-06-03, 10:27 AM
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Is it common or fairly possible for new plugs to foul after a couple hundred miles, or should I just assume the problem to be with the ignition wires?
Old 10-06-03, 11:46 AM
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Not to scare you. But I had a friend who raced on the highway.
Got off and the idle was crazy.
It soon died at a stop sign. Got it home, did a compression test and found a rear blown apex seal.
I would do a compression check if you feel you are running on only 1 rotor.
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