Ok finished putting the pills and cooling upgrades in. I took it out for a test run in 73 deg F. I hit a solid 10psi and it feels good, then transitions good but drops to 7psi from 4500rpm and up. Good news is I got no boost creep and that I got the primaries to kick in a solid 10psi but now I need to get the secondary boost running a solid 10psi. I'm thinking of replacing all the check valves just as preventative maintenance. I guess I got more reading to do, but I think I'm almost there. Any suggestions?

Just so u haven't been keeping up. I started with boost pattern 2-2-5. After 2 new turbo control solenoids, I got 7-5-5 boost. I put in the missing restrictor pills and now I get 10-8-7.

 

Ok I found out that after wot and shifting into the next gear I get lower boost even below 4500. I'll get like 5-6psi. If I lift off throttle for a bit and wot again I'll get the 10psi under 4500 again. I suspect some check valves are leaking, so I'm going to test them when I got time but in the meantime, I'm going to go ahead and replace them all. Hopefully this will fix my low secondary boost also. Correction on boost pattern is 10-5-6

 

Make sure the turbos control solenoid plugs are not switched. There should be a plug with a white dot that plugs in to the switch with a white dot. If they are already plugged in properly, I think you are on the right track with the check valves.

 

I don`t know which solenoids you changed, but in case it was the pre-control and wastegate solenoids, have you also looked at the turbo control solenoids under the upper intake? Your problem could be caused by a few things, but it sure sounds like a lazy turbo control solenoid - likely the third one from the front in the bottom rack. Start by T-ing into the pressure and vacuum tanks and go for a drive. Make sure that they're able to hold their condition until the ECU tells them to discharge/recharge. The pressure tank and its check valve are easy to check because they're at the top and you should hear a hiss when you remove one of the vacuum lines.

 

I already checked that. I tried switching them anyways, and I got less boost when I switched them. Like u said, I'm planning on changing the check valves, I know it will fix some of the problem at least. I want to start fresh with this car, and don't want any other check valves leakig anytime soon.

 

Like rd_turbo said. Turbo control solenoids!
When testing these two units make sure they respond instantly and can handle more than 10psi.

 

if you lose boost then re-gain it after letting off the throttle and going WOT again, you definetly have a leak in your vacuum chamber. Could be the hoses, check valves or the chamber itself.

this is very good reading: http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

 

that's exactly where I'm at. And I read that link all the time. Hoses are new silicone hoses. Chamber holds pressure, I already did the test. So check valves are the only things left.


I changed precontrol, wastegate, and turbo control solenoids. The solenoids are brand new and they fixed my zero boost under 4500rpm. Then I put the restrictor pills in to get my full 10psi under 4500rpm, but upper 4500 rpms only boost 6psi. I've checked the vacuum and pressure tanks to see if they hold air. The check valve to the vacuum chamber sounds like the problem here, so I'm changing all check valves as maintenance. Well see what happens.

 

Was there a fix for this? The secondary turbo doesn't kick on at all for me...so I'm trying to figure out which solenoid would actually prevent it from doing that.

Thinking either the charge control or the turbo control bit which?

 

Try this:

"T" into the pressure tank and the vacuum tank one at a time and check to see what happens before and after 4500 RPM. They act as holding tanks of either pressure or vacuum for the actuators to use once certain conditions are met. The pressure tank must be able to charge to the boost level of the primary turbo and hold its charge (which will be used by the turbo control actuator later). In terms of the solenoids, you might consider changing the third one from the front along the bottom rack and the one which attaches near the top of the lower intake by the ACV. You should download the vacuum routing image which has the color tracers to help you identify the entire circuit.

You should also "T" into the signal going to the charge control actuator on the Y pipe to make sure the gate swings when the secondary needs to come on.

Honestly, for the price of these solenoids ($40-$70 depending on your source)and the time it takes to get in there, I'd bite the bullet and replace them all. You'll never have to think about sticky or lazy solenoids for a long time. Also make sure the electrical contacts are clean and reliable.

 

From what I've read/stared at; Ill need a little vac pump and then I should be able to test most of this stuff. This is my first time in the rotary world...looking at all of the vac lines/hoses/solenoids makes me feel like a n00b

 

Ok, I checked all the check valves and they are all good, I went ahead and replaced them anyways since I already have the new ones. No luck. Now I'm really stuck, I'm thinking the turbo control actuator or the charge control is the cause. Who knows? I'm stuck, so any ideas?

 

i'm having the same problem...i feel helpless...i've traced all my vacuum lines that are involved with the transition based on the best diagram i could find...had to fix a few but still got nothing....though i still haven't checked my turbo control solenoids, need to do so...