low-rpm parking lot manuevering = check engine light
10-04-01, 07:59 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
low-rpm parking lot manuevering = check engine light
Hi guys
Let's say I hop in my car for a short trip to the grocery store. I'm in there for 10 or so minutes and come back out to my car. (it has run fine up until this point) I'll get back into my car and have to manuever out of the parking lot (lots of high/low fluctuations in RPM with clutch engaging/disengaging). On a few occassions my "check engine light" has popped on during this period and my engine has even died twice.
What are the most likely culprits of this activity? bad plugs? bad motor? throttle position sensor? Car idles strong at stoplights with no fluctuation....it only hiccups when I goose it for gas and let the idle bounce back from 700rpm.
It never does this when the engine is cool. It almost always happens after I've been in a store for a bit and come back out to my warmed-up car.
Let's say I hop in my car for a short trip to the grocery store. I'm in there for 10 or so minutes and come back out to my car. (it has run fine up until this point) I'll get back into my car and have to manuever out of the parking lot (lots of high/low fluctuations in RPM with clutch engaging/disengaging). On a few occassions my "check engine light" has popped on during this period and my engine has even died twice.
What are the most likely culprits of this activity? bad plugs? bad motor? throttle position sensor? Car idles strong at stoplights with no fluctuation....it only hiccups when I goose it for gas and let the idle bounce back from 700rpm.
It never does this when the engine is cool. It almost always happens after I've been in a store for a bit and come back out to my warmed-up car.
10-05-01, 11:11 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, check the error code and see what it says! 
My check engine light comes on after an extended period of low rpm changes (i.e. driving in heavy traffic), but it's never died. Mine happens to be because of a bad EGR valve and/or solenoid.
My check engine light comes on after an extended period of low rpm changes (i.e. driving in heavy traffic), but it's never died. Mine happens to be because of a bad EGR valve and/or solenoid.
10-05-01, 11:16 AM
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, just got back from the dealer. They checked the codes and here's the deal:
The engine light is coming on for a "bad air intake sensor" ?
Also, he told me that the airpump had been disabled...I've had my friends work on my car twice but I don't think they've ever disabled the air pump and I know they wouldn't have done it on purpose without asking me. Plus, they know I don't have a midpipe so I don't see why they would have done that.
They wanted $410 labor + parts to fix it...to hell with that.
The engine light is coming on for a "bad air intake sensor" ?
Also, he told me that the airpump had been disabled...I've had my friends work on my car twice but I don't think they've ever disabled the air pump and I know they wouldn't have done it on purpose without asking me. Plus, they know I don't have a midpipe so I don't see why they would have done that.
They wanted $410 labor + parts to fix it...to hell with that.
10-05-01, 12:39 PM
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sunflower Mazda....and they don't know sh*t either. hehehe....
The paperwork they handed me said the air pump was "removed" and therefore part of the problem. Thats interesting since I was just looking at it (and its plugged in).
edit:
The screeching airpump sound has been gone for a while...I bet the damn thing just died and that's why it has been marked down as "removed".
The paperwork they handed me said the air pump was "removed" and therefore part of the problem. Thats interesting since I was just looking at it (and its plugged in).
edit:
The screeching airpump sound has been gone for a while...I bet the damn thing just died and that's why it has been marked down as "removed".
10-05-01, 01:07 PM
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are skeptical about the code, you can read the code using a paperclip to connect the TEN and GND terminals of the diagnostic port under the hood. If it's the intake air temp sensor, it should have a short flash and a long flash indicating code 11.
After you confirm the code, you can reset it by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake for 10-20 secs. If the light doesn't come on again, you might be okay but read the code again after a week or so of driving.
I went thru the replacement last month. It took about 6 hrs to replace it. If you are handy, you can probably do it a lot faster since I just took my time and I make some mistakes along the way. I would give 3 hrs for the job if I had to do it again. The part was about $65-70. I can dig up the part number if your dealer is clueless...
You have to unbolt the upper intake manifold bc the sensor is screwed on the bottom of it!!! You can just lift the UIM and remove the sensor w/ an open wrench instead of taking the UIM off completely. There are about 8 bolts that you have to remove to get the UIM lifted. Carefully keep or mark the bolts so you remember which one goes to where.
It's also a good idea to clean up the inside of the UIM with carb cleaner spray while you've got it opened. It makes the car more responsive. The ECU will adjust its setting during the first 50 miles or so after you clean it so idle will flutuate a little but will settle down.
It's import to fix this so you car don't run lean or rich. It's a popular problem from what the parts manager told me (he owns 8 RX7s). PM me if you need any help!
After you confirm the code, you can reset it by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake for 10-20 secs. If the light doesn't come on again, you might be okay but read the code again after a week or so of driving.
I went thru the replacement last month. It took about 6 hrs to replace it. If you are handy, you can probably do it a lot faster since I just took my time and I make some mistakes along the way. I would give 3 hrs for the job if I had to do it again. The part was about $65-70. I can dig up the part number if your dealer is clueless...
You have to unbolt the upper intake manifold bc the sensor is screwed on the bottom of it!!! You can just lift the UIM and remove the sensor w/ an open wrench instead of taking the UIM off completely. There are about 8 bolts that you have to remove to get the UIM lifted. Carefully keep or mark the bolts so you remember which one goes to where.
It's also a good idea to clean up the inside of the UIM with carb cleaner spray while you've got it opened. It makes the car more responsive. The ECU will adjust its setting during the first 50 miles or so after you clean it so idle will flutuate a little but will settle down.
It's import to fix this so you car don't run lean or rich. It's a popular problem from what the parts manager told me (he owns 8 RX7s). PM me if you need any help!
10-05-01, 01:25 PM
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by djantlive
If you are skeptical about the code, you can read the code using a paperclip to connect the TEN and GND terminals of the diagnostic port under the hood. If it's the intake air temp sensor, it should have a short flash and a long flash indicating code 11.
After you confirm the code, you can reset it by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake for 10-20 secs. If the light doesn't come on again, you might be okay but read the code again after a week or so of driving.
I went thru the replacement last month. It took about 6 hrs to replace it. If you are handy, you can probably do it a lot faster since I just took my time and I make some mistakes along the way. I would give 3 hrs for the job if I had to do it again. The part was about $65-70. I can dig up the part number if your dealer is clueless...
You have to unbolt the upper intake manifold bc the sensor is screwed on the bottom of it!!! You can just lift the UIM and remove the sensor w/ an open wrench instead of taking the UIM off completely. There are about 8 bolts that you have to remove to get the UIM lifted. Carefully keep or mark the bolts so you remember which one goes to where.
It's also a good idea to clean up the inside of the UIM with carb cleaner spray while you've got it opened. It makes the car more responsive. The ECU will adjust its setting during the first 50 miles or so after you clean it so idle will flutuate a little but will settle down.
It's import to fix this so you car don't run lean or rich. It's a popular problem from what the parts manager told me (he owns 8 RX7s). PM me if you need any help!
If you are skeptical about the code, you can read the code using a paperclip to connect the TEN and GND terminals of the diagnostic port under the hood. If it's the intake air temp sensor, it should have a short flash and a long flash indicating code 11.
After you confirm the code, you can reset it by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake for 10-20 secs. If the light doesn't come on again, you might be okay but read the code again after a week or so of driving.
I went thru the replacement last month. It took about 6 hrs to replace it. If you are handy, you can probably do it a lot faster since I just took my time and I make some mistakes along the way. I would give 3 hrs for the job if I had to do it again. The part was about $65-70. I can dig up the part number if your dealer is clueless...
You have to unbolt the upper intake manifold bc the sensor is screwed on the bottom of it!!! You can just lift the UIM and remove the sensor w/ an open wrench instead of taking the UIM off completely. There are about 8 bolts that you have to remove to get the UIM lifted. Carefully keep or mark the bolts so you remember which one goes to where.
It's also a good idea to clean up the inside of the UIM with carb cleaner spray while you've got it opened. It makes the car more responsive. The ECU will adjust its setting during the first 50 miles or so after you clean it so idle will flutuate a little but will settle down.
It's import to fix this so you car don't run lean or rich. It's a popular problem from what the parts manager told me (he owns 8 RX7s). PM me if you need any help!
Trending Topics
10-05-01, 01:34 PM
#8
If you are about as handy with tools as I am, then here is a place you can contact:
Hurst Imported Car Svc Inc
13208 E 40 Hwy # D
Independence, MO 64055
(816) 229-4600
Little drive for you out in OP, but if you can't find Art these guys do know about the 3rd gen.
Good luck.
Hurst Imported Car Svc Inc
13208 E 40 Hwy # D
Independence, MO 64055
(816) 229-4600
Little drive for you out in OP, but if you can't find Art these guys do know about the 3rd gen.
Good luck.
10-05-01, 01:41 PM
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Mahjik
If you are about as handy with tools as I am, then here is a place you can contact:
Hurst Imported Car Svc Inc
13208 E 40 Hwy # D
Independence, MO 64055
(816) 229-4600
Little drive for you out in OP, but if you can't find Art these guys do know about the 3rd gen.
Good luck.
If you are about as handy with tools as I am, then here is a place you can contact:
Hurst Imported Car Svc Inc
13208 E 40 Hwy # D
Independence, MO 64055
(816) 229-4600
Little drive for you out in OP, but if you can't find Art these guys do know about the 3rd gen.
Good luck.
10-05-01, 02:15 PM
#10
Originally posted by DefBringer
Have you taken your car out there before? Good experiences?
Have you taken your car out there before? Good experiences?
I talked to them over the phone and they said they used to work on a lot of 3rd gens a few years ago, but the last 2 years there haven't been too many around. They said there is one that comes in every few months to have some things checked or added.
They seem very knowledgeable. They are going to fix the *ahem* repairs that Mazda did on my car.
After talking with them over the phone, I actually feel very assured that I will be back out driving my FD next week (after 4 weeks of dealing with Mazda).
Give them a call and talk to them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
