Ron Dane

I have been reading a lot of information on how to fix this low coolant buzzer issue, just need some clear guidance on how this circuit works so I can fix it. I will lay out the facts of where I am at right now...

Just finished installing the engine, fresh rebuild.

Bled cooling system, no air pockets, level is at the top when removing the radiator cap every time.

Checked to make sure AC wire is white to white under PS pump

Checked to make sure low coolant wire is black to black under PS pump

Not sure where to go next on this one, any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Pictures, wiring diagrams of the 2 circuits that make the buzzer go off ( Low coolant, oil meter ), maybe I have something plugged in wrong, maybe another common area to check connections. Should I swap sensors, should I ground something, should I run a wire to bypass...

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

what sensor is that? aftermarket?

did you mess with your harness?

the clear/white connector is generally attached to the top of the water filler neck housing. that wire is just an extender that travels through the "engine" harness and ends with a black connector that falls around the oil filler neck..

not sure why both connectors you're showing are by the ps....

Also iirc, there are a few single strand connectors that are black on the dr side that can get easily mistaken for one another... just double check

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

It sound like you checked the common mistake areas and it looks like you have the A/C and LCB wires correct by the PS pump. Let's just make sure that you plugged the actual sensor in that is located on the front of the thermostat housing. I have also seen corrosion on this connector cause issues, a little WD40 on both connector bodies usually does the trick.

Ron Dane

So I have some more information that might be useful to figure this out. I started up the car tonight when I got off work to let it warm up (still breaking it in), and NO BUZZER. Before I started it I checked the coolant level, and it was at the tip top. It was at high idle for about 10 min (about 1.8k rpm), I decided to tap on the tbody with a hammer to see if the idle would drop, and it did (to about 1k rpm)...as soon as the idle dropped down the BUZZER started up again, and would not stop after that. Is this a hint of any sort? Thanks for the help on this one guys!

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Burping th coolant system takes multiple start ups or the use of a lisle funnel, which is what we use.

Don't hit your TB with a hammer. If you want to drop the idle simply push down on the TB thermowax cam.

Ron Dane

Sounds good, this weekend I will use the funnel and jack up the front end to see if it burps any more. I will let you know how it goes. This weekend the front bumper is going back on, and gauges are going in...man its been a long project, cant wait to drive it!

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Ive seen the sensor fail several times over the years. When they fail the symptoms are pretty much exactly like you are experiencing. Most of the time the buzzer is on and occasionally it shuts off. It is less than $30.00 from Malloy Mazda and will likely fix the problem

Ron Dane

Thanks djseven, I will swap that sensor out over the weekend to rule it out as a possibility. Appreciate the help guys, I will keep you updated (:

Ron Dane

Hey guys, just want to say thanks for the help on the issue! I swapped out the sensor yesterday and the intermittent ADD COOLANT BUZZER issue has been resolved!