loose wire? connection problem -no commander screen/spark
#1
loose wire? connection problem -no commander screen/spark
so i think i have a loose wire but i dont know what to look for.
symptoms
nothing displays on the commander
i dont believe im getting any spark
i have the wiring diagrams but im not sure which wire to look for. any ideas/suggestions?
symptoms
nothing displays on the commander
i dont believe im getting any spark
i have the wiring diagrams but im not sure which wire to look for. any ideas/suggestions?
#3
FD Project
iTrader: (58)
does colors wires dont match to the pins you are pointing out.
grounds for ecu are
4a = b/w
4b = b/w
4c = b
4d =br/b
2 off the grounds b/w ground to the engine
1 black gounds at bolt at by ecu
the br/w is the ground for some of the sensors like tps,aic,etc.
is just went thru the same thing on my single harness conversion, and didnt get spark or commander to work, i did a continuity test and found out that i had the br/w 5v wire from my tps grounded to the br/b wire on the 4d circuit.
swap wire out and got spark and started right up.
#4
youre, right, those wires were for injectors.
my b/w wires and b wires all check out. ill double check the br/b wire. where does this one ground to? I wired my single turbo harness over a year ago but its definitely a possibility.
when you say "didnt get the commander to work" do u mean nothing showed on the screen either?
also i tested my main egi relay (big yellow 60amp relay) while on the on position, 2 of the 4 terminals reads 12v, should i see 12v from 3 instead of 2?
my b/w wires and b wires all check out. ill double check the br/b wire. where does this one ground to? I wired my single turbo harness over a year ago but its definitely a possibility.
when you say "didnt get the commander to work" do u mean nothing showed on the screen either?
also i tested my main egi relay (big yellow 60amp relay) while on the on position, 2 of the 4 terminals reads 12v, should i see 12v from 3 instead of 2?
#5
FD Project
iTrader: (58)
youre, right, those wires were for injectors.
injectors wires are
lg/r = primary front
lg/b= primary rear
lg/w= sec front
lg = sec rear.
if im not mistaking i believe the wires you mentioned earlier are from the dash harness.
my b/w wires and b wires all check out. ill double check the br/b wire. where does this one ground to? I wired my single turbo harness over a year ago but its definitely a possibility.
br/b is the ground for the tps,aic, wtr temp, air temp and other sensors pin 4D at ecu.
when you say "didnt get the commander to work" do u mean nothing showed on the screen either?
i didn't get nothing unless i partially disconnected the #4 connector from the ecu, then i was able to get the commander to come on, the i was able to check which sensor was giving me the problem, that's when i found the br/b and br/w spliced together, had to redo the harness again, and everything worked fine.
also i tested my main egi relay (big yellow 60amp relay) while on the on position, 2 of the 4 terminals reads 12v, should i see 12v from 3 instead of 2?
injectors wires are
lg/r = primary front
lg/b= primary rear
lg/w= sec front
lg = sec rear.
if im not mistaking i believe the wires you mentioned earlier are from the dash harness.
my b/w wires and b wires all check out. ill double check the br/b wire. where does this one ground to? I wired my single turbo harness over a year ago but its definitely a possibility.
br/b is the ground for the tps,aic, wtr temp, air temp and other sensors pin 4D at ecu.
when you say "didnt get the commander to work" do u mean nothing showed on the screen either?
i didn't get nothing unless i partially disconnected the #4 connector from the ecu, then i was able to get the commander to come on, the i was able to check which sensor was giving me the problem, that's when i found the br/b and br/w spliced together, had to redo the harness again, and everything worked fine.
also i tested my main egi relay (big yellow 60amp relay) while on the on position, 2 of the 4 terminals reads 12v, should i see 12v from 3 instead of 2?
#6
OK, this is driving me absolutely crazy. I cant pin point what the problem is.
-The main egi relay is working (yellow 60amp) tested for continuity, relay clicks, im getting voltage from 3 of the 4 terminals.
-ECU is definitely getting power its reading the same voltage as the battery (roughly 12.3x)
-EGI fuse is good
-2 black wires in the engine harness are grounded to the motor, the other black one is grounded to the pass side frame, the 4th brown/black wire is connected, and i havent double checked that since id have to tear apart my whole engine harness and i highly doubt thats the issue since my engine harness was done over a year ago and its been working. if the wires were crossed i would have had this problem a while ago too.
-all the pins look like they get good contact, when i have to pull the clip its in there tight so the connection should be strong.
-i blew into the connection points as thats what worked last time, nothing happens.
-wiggled all the wires, nothing happens
PLEASE help if you have any idea. this is the LAST thing stopping my from driving my car.
-The main egi relay is working (yellow 60amp) tested for continuity, relay clicks, im getting voltage from 3 of the 4 terminals.
-ECU is definitely getting power its reading the same voltage as the battery (roughly 12.3x)
-EGI fuse is good
-2 black wires in the engine harness are grounded to the motor, the other black one is grounded to the pass side frame, the 4th brown/black wire is connected, and i havent double checked that since id have to tear apart my whole engine harness and i highly doubt thats the issue since my engine harness was done over a year ago and its been working. if the wires were crossed i would have had this problem a while ago too.
-all the pins look like they get good contact, when i have to pull the clip its in there tight so the connection should be strong.
-i blew into the connection points as thats what worked last time, nothing happens.
-wiggled all the wires, nothing happens
PLEASE help if you have any idea. this is the LAST thing stopping my from driving my car.
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#10
Needs more seat time
iTrader: (5)
yea a similar problems with my Power FC over the winter i didn't wanna believe it either. i swapped out every thing related to ignition system. put in a stock ECU and my car fired right up.......
for your sake man i hope it ain't. BUT in the worst case scenario you can send your PFC to Apex'i for repairs. they will see it they can fix it in house BUT if they can't then it gotta go to japan and that can take anywhere from 2 to 3 months and can cost anywhere from 100-300 bucks.... i sent mine in around june and i should be getting my back in a few weeks.
Either way go grab a stock ECU and hope that it is something stupid.
for your sake man i hope it ain't. BUT in the worst case scenario you can send your PFC to Apex'i for repairs. they will see it they can fix it in house BUT if they can't then it gotta go to japan and that can take anywhere from 2 to 3 months and can cost anywhere from 100-300 bucks.... i sent mine in around june and i should be getting my back in a few weeks.
Either way go grab a stock ECU and hope that it is something stupid.
#11
phrost thats tempting, i have a friend that may stop by so ill let you know. if this ecu is crapped out im going microtech. and then giving up hope for driving it this season. there is no way i can wait 2-3 months. im impatient as hell and want to drive this pos. and as soon as its broken in, this bastard car is going to pay for it as i beat her to the ground. >:0
On a side note, i did open the ecu again and looked at the solder points ect. nothing looks broken. im really running out of ideas and only can think of the ecu being toast as the problem.....
On a side note, i did open the ecu again and looked at the solder points ect. nothing looks broken. im really running out of ideas and only can think of the ecu being toast as the problem.....
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Possibly a couple of things before tearing it out; you've probably already done these but:
If 1, 2, or 3 are not OK then probably not ECM but wiring or key switch.
If all these things are OK then the ECM is probably OK.
If 1, 2, and 3 are OK and 4 is not happening then ECM is probably NOT OK.
- Good grounds on pins 4a, 4b, and 4c of ECM
- Battery + Power always at pin 1A of ECM
- Battery + Power at pin 1B when key switch is at IGN and/or Start (make sure on Start)
- Fuel pump relay comes on for a couple of second then off when key is turned to IGN
If 1, 2, or 3 are not OK then probably not ECM but wiring or key switch.
If all these things are OK then the ECM is probably OK.
If 1, 2, and 3 are OK and 4 is not happening then ECM is probably NOT OK.
#13
brap brap mf
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: clifton, NJ (north jersey)
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phrost thats tempting, i have a friend that may stop by so ill let you know. if this ecu is crapped out im going microtech. and then giving up hope for driving it this season. there is no way i can wait 2-3 months. im impatient as hell and want to drive this pos. and as soon as its broken in, this bastard car is going to pay for it as i beat her to the ground. >:0
On a side note, i did open the ecu again and looked at the solder points ect. nothing looks broken. im really running out of ideas and only can think of the ecu being toast as the problem.....
On a side note, i did open the ecu again and looked at the solder points ect. nothing looks broken. im really running out of ideas and only can think of the ecu being toast as the problem.....
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The Shaolin
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