is there any good thread about looping power steering lines? i just took off the 2 lines that are connected to the power steering pump.. I'm just not to sure where to go from there.. i found a thread but the pictures don't work anymore, thanks guys

 

Is is a temporary solution? I had created a loop line system with fittings for Gotham Racing many years ago. Honestly, something like a Maval manual rack feels much much better. The looped line requires so much effort. Once I switched to the Maval on my old VR FD I was thinking, how did I ever live with the looped rack for so long? Not a fan.

 

yea i gave them a call and they think they can convert my rack, its not really in the budget but yea this will just be temporary for now.. do you know the fitting sizes?

 

The loop line actually works well if you modify the fittings on the rack properly. The fittings themselves have a very small orface. The problem is when the piston inside the rack is pushing the fluid through that tinny orifice to the loop line, it creates resistance. Some say it's the piston pushing the fluid back and forward that creates the resistance but in reality, it's the piston trying to push the fluid through the tinny orifices. I'm a hydraulic mechanic with training in fluid dynamics from my time in the oil filed. What I did to my rack was to remove those fittings. Then I cut off the the factory hardline ends and drilled the orifice out larger. Then I tig welded a #6 aka 3/8" male JIC flare fitting so it screws back into the rack. I then made a #6 hydraulic hose and connected as my loop. Now I'm sure a full manuel conversion has less resistance but I wanted something reversible just in case I decided to put back my power steering.

 

If you have access to a tig welder the Maval rack can be done really easily. Then you just have to trust your own work. If you want I can get you pictures of my conversion and some links that I used to gather info on the conversion.

 

pm sent, i can do the work myself i just need to know what to do shah

 

This may help for general info. There may be some diff btwn Miata and Rx7 racks, but you should get the idea

Flyin' Miata : Tech: 1.8 conversion

 

I ran loop lined for a year on the 13b.

Now, on the 20b (considerable more weight up front) I have cut the seals out of the rack, welded up the quill and filled the holes for the fittings (maval conversion)


Too be honest, the difference to me is so minimal. Seriously.

I wouldn't have even wasted the time to cut the seals and convert it. I'm not sure what the others guys are speaking of, but in my experience feel is exactly the same. It may be a tad bit easier to move the wheel at a stand-still, but honestly its a PITA turning the wheel parked no matter what on any manual car. However, this could be because of the extra weight now in the front.

If your motor isn't out of the car, and you don't want to go through the hassle of pulling the rack, just loop the lines and don't worry about it.

 

I used a manual rack from a s4t2.

I got the rack for free, but the outer tie rods cost $20 or so.

Also, if you do this you'll need to alter the fc rack brackets slightly.

 

my engine is out already and wanted to get it done before the engine goes back in, i spoke with turk and he helped me out. i just decided to do it right the first time so its not ghetto and i don't want to touch it again. thanks guys

 

I ran a looped line for three weeks waiting for a p/s line to show up .
It was terrible and I would never do that again .


I slapped p/s back into my car first chance I got .

 

This is just going to be my Sunday 500 hp cruise car.. so not much driving going on. Gonna see a couple track days in the year. Wanted to clean up the engine bay a lot