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Hey all. If you don't mi d can you advise if adding a small fan to control with an elite 1500 to bring down the air Temps? Here in TX it gets hot and was wondering if it would help to flow some air through the core. I know a vented hood would help a lot but that's not in the cards for now.
You might get a small amount of benefit on stop and go traffic, but with no vented hood the heat will keep circulating in the engine bay. The fan has to be strong (high cfm) to even see any benefit.
As you mention, vented hood is one of the biggest heat dissipation mods.
Water meth is anotherone.
I had one and i saw no benefits with the fan.
Get meth wire it to work with rpm and you will be way better that way.
You might get a small amount of benefit on stop and go traffic, but with no vented hood the heat will keep circulating in the engine bay. The fan has to be strong (high cfm) to even see any benefit.
As you mention, vented hood is one of the biggest heat dissipation mods.
Water meth is anotherone.
I had one and i saw no benefits with the fan.
Get meth wire it to work with rpm and you will be way better that way.
Thanks... That was what I was leaning towards.
Also would you know if it's better to have the ac condenser right up against the radiator (no gap) or with a small gap as I do. My idea is to have more air flow in between the two..
i suggest you relocate your air filter since it is currently positioned to suck the very hot exhaust air from the intercooler. or maybe you have a partiton that isn't installed.
i suggest you relocate your air filter since it is currently positioned to suck the very hot exhaust air from the intercooler. or maybe you have a partiton that isn't installed.
Yes Howard. I plan to make an enclosure for the filter that has outside air feeding it.
Yes Howard. I plan to make an enclosure for the filter that has outside air feeding it.
you might just try using a piece of pipe and moving the filter more to the corner. i'm kind of playing with the same thing on my car, and its not gone exactly how i would have thought, i've had to try stuff and see how it worked
I would / did duct the intercooler and radiator and air filter.
Have a divider between radiator and intercooler in the finished ducting that extends all the way to the front bumper opening.
. This will block radiant and convective heat transfer into the IC from the hot radiator below and most importantly, when the car is stopped and the radiator fan kicks on it will keep the radiator fans from pulling hot engine bay, trans tunnel and wheel well air through the IC and then through the radiator.
The air filter location and shrouding thing is a real concern too.
First duct the IC and radiator and then start experimenting with air filter location because the air currents/eddys will change in the engine bay. You dont want the filter in a stagnant eddy.
I would / did duct the intercooler and radiator and air filter.
Have a divider between radiator and intercooler in the finished ducting that extends all the way to the front bumper opening.
. This will block radiant and convective heat transfer into the IC from the hot radiator below and most importantly, when the car is stopped and the radiator fan kicks on it will keep the radiator fans from pulling hot engine bay, trans tunnel and wheel well air through the IC and then through the radiator.
The air filter location and shrouding thing is a real concern too.
First duct the IC and radiator and then start experimenting with air filter location because the air currents/eddys will change in the engine bay. You dont want the filter in a stagnant eddy.
Ducting is of course important, but there's a reason why Evos and STi's came with water (well, mixed with stuff to prevent freezing) intercooler sprayers from the factory.
Ducting is of course important, but there's a reason why Evos and STi's came with water (well, mixed with stuff to prevent freezing) intercooler sprayers from the factory.
So are the sprayers internal or on the intercooler surface?
Water sprayer is a very good and legitimate means to cool the intercooler from heatsoak that I always use when I race.
First ducting, then whatever else you need to help.
____
Evo includes IC on the front heat exchanger stack so that radiator fans always pull ambient air (cooler than engine bay) through the IC. That IC is infact ducted.
Subaru cannot add the IC to the stack because their engine is there and 5mph front end collisions must be kept under certain $ figure. So, they top mount the IC and add a duct. Its a compromise.
HOMOLAGATION
The water sprayers were added to Evos and Subbies under homologation racing rules where the rally cars could only run what production cars had.
Much like the production homolation RX7 SP had the same carbon fiber bumpers, larger CF gas tank, CF intake, CF seats, composite vented hood and 3" SMB stainless steel exhaust as the race cars.
This helped the RX7 SP defeat the Porshe 911 RS CS as handily as earlier garden variety production RX7s defeated the "regular" 911 RS versions the previous years of the endurance race series.
Only safety pieces (cage, drybreak fuel filler, harnesses) were not needed on the production street car RX7 SPs.
Water sprayer is a very good and legitimate means to cool the intercooler from heatsoak that I always use when I race.
First ducting, then whatever else you need to help.
____
Evo includes IC on the front heat exchanger stack so that radiator fans always pull ambient air (cooler than engine bay) through the IC. That IC is infact ducted.
Subaru cannot add the IC to the stack because their engine is there and 5mph front end collisions must be kept under certain $ figure. So, they top mount the IC and add a duct. Its a compromise.
HOMOLAGATION
The water sprayers were added to Evos and Subbies under homologation racing rules where the rally cars could only run what production cars had.
Much like the production homolation RX7 SP had the same carbon fiber bumpers, larger CF gas tank, CF intake, CF seats, composite vented hood and 3" SMB stainless steel exhaust as the race cars.
This helped the RX7 SP defeat the Porshe 911 RS CS as handily as earlier garden variety production RX7s defeated the "regular" 911 RS versions the previous years of the endurance race series.
Only safety pieces (cage, drybreak fuel filler, harnesses) were not needed on the production street car RX7 SPs.
Interesting.... So wouldn't it make more sense to have the v mount and the radiator installed in reverse so that the fans are pulling the heat upwards into the engine bay and out the vented hood(if one has one)? That way the IC gets more ambient air? Just a thought..
Can anyone recommend material to use as a template to build the ducting? I've see some flat plastic sheets similar to cardboard as in being able to bend but don't know where to get it. Or is cardboard good enough.
Interesting.... So wouldn't it make more sense to have the v mount and the radiator installed in reverse so that the fans are pulling the heat upwards into the engine bay and out the vented hood(if one has one)? That way the IC gets more ambient air? Just a thought...
Short of your car having an air intake like a tesla, travelling anything much beyond a few mph, you will have have a lot more air passing through the heat exchangers than any fan you can possibly install.....and no good reason to swap, unless a high CoG is the goal.
Water sprayer is a very good and legitimate means to cool the intercooler from heatsoak that I always use when I race.
First ducting, then whatever else you need to help.
____
Evo includes IC on the front heat exchanger stack so that radiator fans always pull ambient air (cooler than engine bay) through the IC. That IC is infact ducted.
Subaru cannot add the IC to the stack because their engine is there and 5mph front end collisions must be kept under certain $ figure. So, they top mount the IC and add a duct. Its a compromise.
HOMOLAGATION
The water sprayers were added to Evos and Subbies under homologation racing rules where the rally cars could only run what production cars had.
Much like the production homolation RX7 SP had the same carbon fiber bumpers, larger CF gas tank, CF intake, CF seats, composite vented hood and 3" SMB stainless steel exhaust as the race cars.
This helped the RX7 SP defeat the Porshe 911 RS CS as handily as earlier garden variety production RX7s defeated the "regular" 911 RS versions the previous years of the endurance race series.
Only safety pieces (cage, drybreak fuel filler, harnesses) were not needed on the production street car RX7 SPs.
Can anyone recommend material to use as a template to build the ducting? I've see some flat plastic sheets similar to cardboard as in being able to bend but don't know where to get it. Or is cardboard good enough.
cardboard works. Card stock, is maybe better. also the stuff they use to make lawn signs from works nicely, its like a corrugated plastic.
If all you need is to make a template, I'd suggest visiting the grocery store and getting a few boxes of cereal. Tape the boxes together and you'll have plenty of material to cut, trim and shape your ducting the way you want it.
If all you need is to make a template, I'd suggest visiting the grocery store and getting a few boxes of cereal. Tape the boxes together and you'll have plenty of material to cut, trim and shape your ducting the way you want it.
CAD: Cardboard Aided Design
😂 Good idea but then I would have to eat all the cereal....
I am also a proponent of CAD design, Cardstock Aided Design... CAD V2
I dont like how rough corrugated cardboard is on scissors and the thickness decreases your precision shaping at the edges.
Dollar tree has some cheap crafting supplies.
I cut cardstock to fit and when I overcut, I just tape a fresh piece over the edge and try again. Some nooks and cranies its easier to cut a little piece to fit and then put in your big piece and tape the little piece onto the big piece while its in place to form the final pattern.
Once you get a pattern you are happy with, slap it on the Aluminum or stainless sheet metal, carbon fiber sheet, or whatever you are making the duct out of and trace your pattern.
You can bend little brackets up to hold it all together out of Aluminum bar stock and a machinists vise from Harbor Freight.
Get creative with brackets.
They can wrap around parts, they can use rubber well nits in blind chassis holes, they can attach to other components.
There is no need to drill into/alter the FD unibody sheetmetal.
Think about vibration and the force of air over 100mph- example a duct attached to your IC or radiator could pry the heat exchanger off its mounts if attached wrong. Or one could make a duct that creates a huge rattle fest under the hood or rubs paint off the chassis so your car rusts.
If you want to be fancy, put a magnetic LED worklight, wool tufts and a sports videocamera under the hood and watch your airflow at speeds and with radiator fan kicking on and off.
You can even get a cheap airspeed meter and record its readout.
We have cheap tools that fit in our pocket that they built whole buildings of relays to run aero simulations in 1930s (early computers).
I am also a proponent of CAD design, Cardstock Aided Design... CAD V2
I dont like how rough corrugated cardboard is on scissors and the thickness decreases your precision shaping at the edges.
Dollar tree has some cheap crafting supplies.
I cut cardstock to fit and when I overcut, I just tape a fresh piece over the edge and try again. Some nooks and cranies its easier to cut a little piece to fit and then put in your big piece and tape the little piece onto the big piece while its in place to form the final pattern.
Once you get a pattern you are happy with, slap it on the Aluminum or stainless sheet metal, carbon fiber sheet, or whatever you are making the duct out of and trace your pattern.
You can bend little brackets up to hold it all together out of Aluminum bar stock and a machinists vise from Harbor Freight.
Get creative with brackets.
They can wrap around parts, they can use rubber well nits in blind chassis holes, they can attach to other components.
There is no need to drill into/alter the FD unibody sheetmetal.
Think about vibration and the force of air over 100mph- example a duct attached to your IC or radiator could pry the heat exchanger off its mounts if attached wrong. Or one could make a duct that creates a huge rattle fest under the hood or rubs paint off the chassis so your car rusts.
If you want to be fancy, put a magnetic LED worklight, wool tufts and a sports videocamera under the hood and watch your airflow at speeds and with radiator fan kicking on and off.
You can even get a cheap airspeed meter and record its readout.
We have cheap tools that fit in our pocket that they built whole buildings of relays to run aero simulations in 1930s (early computers).
Thanks. I have some ideas on how to design this. Going to work on it and I'll post some images for review 😜
Awesome!
I researched NACA (became NASA 1958) documents when designing mine in 2000.
Its 25yrs for most classified stuff, reviewed to 50yrs and special stuff 75yrs.
So, there is always new info out.
We (public) did not know Germany used the 1938 Z3 computer to do airfoil analysis in the 1940s. We were told the Germans got us to the moon with slide rules in 1969.
Awesome!
I researched NACA (became NASA 1958) documents when designing mine in 2000.
Its 25yrs for most classified stuff, reviewed to 50yrs and special stuff 75yrs.
So, there is always new info out.
We (public) did not know Germany used the 1938 Z3 computer to do airfoil analysis in the 1940s. We were told the Germans got us to the moon with slide rules in 1969.
Hey all. If you don't mi d can you advise if adding a small fan to control with an elite 1500 to bring down the air Temps? Here in TX it gets hot and was wondering if it would help to flow some air through the core. I know a vented hood would help a lot but that's not in the cards for now.
08-25-22, 02:16 PM
