keyless entry (have reference thread, please take a look)
#1
2-Rotor Beast
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keyless entry (have reference thread, please take a look)
Ok, I got a keyless entry system installed in my FD a few days ago. And i've been having the problem of my alarm going off whenever i unlock the car.
I've found alot of threads that say why this happens and I know i can ground the hood pin and disable the factory alarm. But i dont want to do that. I want to be able to keep the factory alarm functioning and have the keyless entry work without the alarm going off. I found this thread. Notice J.S.J.s last post.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+factory+alarm
I still dont fully understand how to do what he is talking about. IF someone knows how to do this please help me out, i would really appreciate it.
-TJ
I've found alot of threads that say why this happens and I know i can ground the hood pin and disable the factory alarm. But i dont want to do that. I want to be able to keep the factory alarm functioning and have the keyless entry work without the alarm going off. I found this thread. Notice J.S.J.s last post.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+factory+alarm
I still dont fully understand how to do what he is talking about. IF someone knows how to do this please help me out, i would really appreciate it.
-TJ
#2
93 Touring
Note from an old keyless thread
I had saved this quote from someone's post a while back. Wanted to keep it in case I did the keyless entry.
"This one is easy. Take off the door panel and there is a green/yellow wire. You hook the Ground pulse wire from the keyless entry to that wire. The green/yellow wire needs a negative pulse to disarm."
Don't know if it works or even makes sense, but it just might.
"This one is easy. Take off the door panel and there is a green/yellow wire. You hook the Ground pulse wire from the keyless entry to that wire. The green/yellow wire needs a negative pulse to disarm."
Don't know if it works or even makes sense, but it just might.
#3
2-Rotor Beast
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well, that helps me out a little bit. I'm still not sure what wire that is exactly, the green/yellow wire. and im not sure if i just splice the ground wire from the keyless to it and thats it or what.
i guess im still pretty confused. someone help me.
i guess im still pretty confused. someone help me.
#4
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just splice into it, you dont want to fully cut the wire. I think the green/yellow wire is for the switch on the back of the keyed door lock. You unlock your car with the key and it tells the alarm to disarm.
#5
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sorry wright color, wrong switch, not the keyed door switch, its for the door lock, again tells the alarm to disarm. If signal is not sent and the door is opened the alarm goes off
#6
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I just installed Viper system last week. Here is what you need to do.
1. Download factory electric manual
2. Go to "theft detterent sysytem" or somethign like that
3. Look at pinout for CPU2 connector.
I used 3 pins out of that connector
1. Arming (thats a wire that shorts to ground when you turn key in a door into "unlock" position. Your keyless system should have (-) disarm wire. Splice it there
2. Door switch wire (-). This wire has ground when door opened. I used this one with keyless "factory re-arm" ground. If you don't do that then car wouldn't arm if you unlock/lock using keyless without opening door in between. This is like factory behavior but I didn't like it.
3. I used factory hood switch (because I have remote start). That wire need to be cut at ECU2 and diode blocked.
It's easy. Read FSM, use DMM. All wires there at CPU2. Let me know if you need any more help
1. Download factory electric manual
2. Go to "theft detterent sysytem" or somethign like that
3. Look at pinout for CPU2 connector.
I used 3 pins out of that connector
1. Arming (thats a wire that shorts to ground when you turn key in a door into "unlock" position. Your keyless system should have (-) disarm wire. Splice it there
2. Door switch wire (-). This wire has ground when door opened. I used this one with keyless "factory re-arm" ground. If you don't do that then car wouldn't arm if you unlock/lock using keyless without opening door in between. This is like factory behavior but I didn't like it.
3. I used factory hood switch (because I have remote start). That wire need to be cut at ECU2 and diode blocked.
It's easy. Read FSM, use DMM. All wires there at CPU2. Let me know if you need any more help
#7
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If you aren't using an aftermarket alarm, what you need is a relay to send a signal to disable the factory alarm.
a SPDT relay like this is fine, 12v30A is pretty standard for automotive use.
There are four pins you need to concern yourself with
85
86
87
30
you don't need 87A since that's NC (normally closed)
I'm hot linking those pictures, sorry if they get removed.
Hook up the relay pins like this:
85 -> light green/black (either from back of CPU by driver kick panel, or in door panel going to lock mechanism)
86 -> ground
87 -> ground
30 -> 12v+ going to actuator (you can test this when you hit unlock)
Basically, there is a slight voltage going through the LG/B wire and it is disconnected from the ground. When you turn the key, the LG/B wire gets connected to the ground. The relay basically simulates this.
I just did mine, hooked up the relay to the back of the actuator, the alarm actually disables 9/10 times, but I'm hating that 1/10 times it goes off (I have a stebel nautilus horn). I think the relay is hooked up too close to the actuator so its getting unlocked before the alarm disable code is sent. Going to try hooking up the relay closer to the CPU and see if it helps.
a SPDT relay like this is fine, 12v30A is pretty standard for automotive use.
There are four pins you need to concern yourself with
85
86
87
30
you don't need 87A since that's NC (normally closed)
I'm hot linking those pictures, sorry if they get removed.
Hook up the relay pins like this:
85 -> light green/black (either from back of CPU by driver kick panel, or in door panel going to lock mechanism)
86 -> ground
87 -> ground
30 -> 12v+ going to actuator (you can test this when you hit unlock)
Basically, there is a slight voltage going through the LG/B wire and it is disconnected from the ground. When you turn the key, the LG/B wire gets connected to the ground. The relay basically simulates this.
I just did mine, hooked up the relay to the back of the actuator, the alarm actually disables 9/10 times, but I'm hating that 1/10 times it goes off (I have a stebel nautilus horn). I think the relay is hooked up too close to the actuator so its getting unlocked before the alarm disable code is sent. Going to try hooking up the relay closer to the CPU and see if it helps.
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#8
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If your keyless entry has disarm and arm wires there is NO NEED for relays.
Why you people make it harder on yourself? All needed to be done - short this lead (in CPU2) to the ground. Keyless I used (Viper 571xv) has negative disarm wire that sends ground pulse. I bet most keyless systems have it.
Why you people make it harder on yourself? All needed to be done - short this lead (in CPU2) to the ground. Keyless I used (Viper 571xv) has negative disarm wire that sends ground pulse. I bet most keyless systems have it.
#9
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Alright, i will find a negative pulse wire coming off of the keyless entry receiver thing. I have the manual. And i all i need to do is connect it to the Disarm wire that comes from CPU2. My questions are:
Where exactly is CPU2 and what does it look like so i can be sure i have the right one.
And what does the disarm wire look like? what color is it? The guy in the thread i linked in my first post says its the "N1" circuit. Does that mean it is labeled? that would make it a hell of alot easier.
Where exactly is CPU2 and what does it look like so i can be sure i have the right one.
And what does the disarm wire look like? what color is it? The guy in the thread i linked in my first post says its the "N1" circuit. Does that mean it is labeled? that would make it a hell of alot easier.
#10
Senior Member
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Where exactly is CPU2 and what does it look like so i can be sure i have the right one.
And what does the disarm wire look like? what color is it? The guy in the thread i linked in my first post says its the "N1" circuit. Does that mean it is labeled? that would make it a hell of alot easier.
And what does the disarm wire look like? what color is it? The guy in the thread i linked in my first post says its the "N1" circuit. Does that mean it is labeled? that would make it a hell of alot easier.
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