Just installed boost gauge and..
04-01-14, 07:54 PM
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Just installed boost gauge and..
I finally got around to installing my boost gauge on my car and the first boost test I saw 10 psi but I didn't see the 8psi drop. After that I only got 2psi of boost while accelerating. My vac is at 20, Im not sure if that is good or not. Also I'm taking my car in the morning to mazda to have them check my solenoids, and other input is appreciated. Thanks again
04-01-14, 08:31 PM
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Is your car set up sequential or non sequential?
If it is still sequential then it sounds like the actuator responsible for engaging your second turbo is not actuating. Check all of your lines and ensure your solenoids are hooked up correctly.
If it is still sequential then it sounds like the actuator responsible for engaging your second turbo is not actuating. Check all of your lines and ensure your solenoids are hooked up correctly.
04-01-14, 09:26 PM
#4
If you thought the car was fun before you are in for a great surprise when you figure out your sequential control issue. You are missing about 60-70 HP right now.
What is the idle rpm for the vac to be at -20?
Just search sequential control system threads and start reading. I dont know how many FDs I bought over the years where the seller told me how fast the car was, only to get inside and realize the second turbo wasnt even coming on. SMH
I recommend buying the Viton check valves from Dale Clark here on the forum, some new vacuum hose and start reading. WIll be a whole new car.
What is the idle rpm for the vac to be at -20?
Just search sequential control system threads and start reading. I dont know how many FDs I bought over the years where the seller told me how fast the car was, only to get inside and realize the second turbo wasnt even coming on. SMH
I recommend buying the Viton check valves from Dale Clark here on the forum, some new vacuum hose and start reading. WIll be a whole new car.
04-01-14, 10:01 PM
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My idle is around 800-900 rpms at about 18-20 vac. Yes I can tell how fast the car is when I get the 10lbs.. Shocks me every time ..lol yes the viton valves are what I'm looking into.. This is my first FD and I bought it 1 month ago and didn't realize my turbos are not working properly until my mechanic told me it felt under powered
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04-02-14, 07:56 AM
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RX-7 Bad Ass
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Or do it yourself. Changing the check valves is a very easy task.
There is no one on this earth that will spend more time and attention to detail on your car than you will. If you can figure it out and fix it yourself, good on ya.
BTW, I have plenty of check valves in stock, PM me for details.
Dale
There is no one on this earth that will spend more time and attention to detail on your car than you will. If you can figure it out and fix it yourself, good on ya.
BTW, I have plenty of check valves in stock, PM me for details.
Dale
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bae86 (03-02-22)
04-02-14, 02:40 PM
#16
Sequential is when both turbos are set up sequentially as in factory form. First turbo kicks in 10psi at 2900RPMS, small transition dip 8psi of boost at 4400RPMS, back up to 10 psi with BOTH turbos online all the way until redline. Take note on a 100% stock setup boost drops off to about 8psi at around 6900RPMS. But as soon a you put in a dp expect 10 psi all the way untill redline. Very responsive setup. Mazda designed the system so it behaves more like an N/A car than a turboe'd one.
Nonsequential is when the turbo system is modified so that both turbos kick in at the same time rather than one at time. People usually do this because it makes the set up much less complex and thus boost problems rarely happen. Just like a everything in life there is no free lunch. The price of going non-seq comes at the cost of both boost threshold and boost lag.
There are pros and cons to both setups. I have tried both but ultimately I personally prefer a sequential setup for the street.
Nonsequential is when the turbo system is modified so that both turbos kick in at the same time rather than one at time. People usually do this because it makes the set up much less complex and thus boost problems rarely happen. Just like a everything in life there is no free lunch. The price of going non-seq comes at the cost of both boost threshold and boost lag.
There are pros and cons to both setups. I have tried both but ultimately I personally prefer a sequential setup for the street.
04-02-14, 02:51 PM
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Thanks for the info !!
Sequential is when both turbos are set up sequentially as in factory form. First turbo kicks in 10psi at 2900RPMS, small transition dip 8psi of boost at 4400RPMS, back up to 10 psi with BOTH turbos online all the way until redline. Take note on a 100% stock setup boost drops off to about 8psi at around 6900RPMS. But as soon a you put in a dp expect 10 psi all the way untill redline. Very responsive setup. Mazda designed the system so it behaves more like an N/A car than a turboe'd one.
Nonsequential is when the turbo system is modified so that both turbos kick in at the same time rather than one at time. People usually do this because it makes the set up much less complex and thus boost problems rarely happen. Just like a everything in life there is no free lunch. The price of going non-seq comes at the cost of both boost threshold and boost lag.
There are pros and cons to both setups. I have tried both but ultimately I personally prefer a sequential setup for the street.
Nonsequential is when the turbo system is modified so that both turbos kick in at the same time rather than one at time. People usually do this because it makes the set up much less complex and thus boost problems rarely happen. Just like a everything in life there is no free lunch. The price of going non-seq comes at the cost of both boost threshold and boost lag.
There are pros and cons to both setups. I have tried both but ultimately I personally prefer a sequential setup for the street.
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