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From my untrained eye it doesn't look bad at all. I went ahead and ordered the two capacitors just in case. Figured I might as well replace them while its out. Here are the pictures as promised.
The problem with your blank odometer depends upon one or more components on the speedo board. There is no one thing to fix. Typically, a few capacitors would need replacement.
I recommend the following:
1. Do not wait to remove the cluster and speedo board.
2. Get it out and inspect it for failed components.
3. Use this thread as a guide to repair the failed components.
4. Use this thread as a parts list: FD Speedometer-Odometer Circuit Board Components Only
5. Use this thread to carry on the repair conversation not covered here: Troubleshooting the FD Speedometer-Odometer-Tachometer Circuit Board
6. If you are unsure what to replace then take photos and post (to link in Step 5).
The problem with your blank odometer depends upon one or more components on the speedo board. There is no one thing to fix. Typically, a few capacitors would need replacement.
I recommend the following:
1. Do not wait to remove the cluster and speedo board.
2. Get it out and inspect it for failed components.
3. Use this thread as a guide to repair the failed components.
4. Use this thread as a parts list: FD Speedometer-Odometer Circuit Board Components Only
5. Use this thread to carry on the repair conversation not covered here: Troubleshooting the FD Speedometer-Odometer-Tachometer Circuit Board
6. If you are unsure what to replace then take photos and post (to link in Step 5).
Cheers,
George
Thank you so much man, I really appreciate the help,
Gonna take the cluster out next week and see what capacitor are blown and try to fix it.
Based upon my experience, I recommend that you remove and inspect the speedo board asap.
To put it into perspective, would you rather wait 1 week to replace a battery that leaked all its acid or replace it when you open the hood and see it's damaged?
The capacitors in question contain acid that leak out and corrode anything in its path. The sooner you neutralize the acid the less damage caused to other components.
When was the last time the odo worked and when did you notice it blanked out?
Based upon my experience, I recommend that you remove and inspect the speedo board asap.
To put it into perspective, would you rather wait 1 week to replace a battery that leaked all its acid or replace it when you open the hood and see it's damaged?
The capacitors in question contain acid that leak out and corrode anything in its path. The sooner you neutralize the acid the less damage caused to other components.
When was the last time the odo worked and when did you notice it blanked out?
Cheers,
George
Crap, just happened yesterday, I jumped started my car since the battery was dead and noticed it then.
How much time passed since you drove the FD until you noticed the blank odo on Monday? Keep in mind that the speedo is oriented in a vertical position. The electrolyte from defective capacitors will run down its leg then slowly streak down the board because of gravity. Hence my recommendation to neutralize the acid as quickly as possible.
How much time passed since you drove the FD until you noticed the blank odo on Monday? Keep in mind that the speedo is oriented in a vertical position. The electrolyte from defective capacitors will run down its leg then slowly streak down the board because of gravity. Hence my recommendation to neutralize the acid as quickly as possible.
Cheers,
George
About 70 hours, I'll try and take out the cluster tonight, herd it's a pain.
Damn, you broke it down by hours. You shouldn't have too much damage after 3 days. Removing the cluster isn't too bad. The trouble stems from breaking the hood or its mounts. Removal of the steering column support bolts and allow the steering column to hang low (support it with your lap) will aid in the cluster's removal. Once your speedo is removed from the cluster then be sure to take some photos of it and post it. I may be able to help you identify what is wrong. Be sure to focus any photos around C1, C2, C3, C4, and C6 with different angles. These should be easy to photo even with the speedo face still installed. Have you ever soldered electronic components to a circuit board before?
Damn, you broke it down by hours. You shouldn't have too much damage after 3 days. Removing the cluster isn't too bad. The trouble stems from breaking the hood or its mounts. Removal of the steering column support bolts and allow the steering column to hang low (support it with your lap) will aid in the cluster's removal. Once your speedo is removed from the cluster then be sure to take some photos of it and post it. I may be able to help you identify what is wrong. Be sure to focus any photos around C1, C2, C3, C4, and C6 with different angles. These should be easy to photo even with the speedo face still installed. Have you ever soldered electronic components to a circuit board before?
Damn, you broke it down by hours. You shouldn't have too much damage after 3 days. Removing the cluster isn't too bad. The trouble stems from breaking the hood or its mounts. Removal of the steering column support bolts and allow the steering column to hang low (support it with your lap) will aid in the cluster's removal. Once your speedo is removed from the cluster then be sure to take some photos of it and post it. I may be able to help you identify what is wrong. Be sure to focus any photos around C1, C2, C3, C4, and C6 with different angles. These should be easy to photo even with the speedo face still installed. Have you ever soldered electronic components to a circuit board before?
Cheers,
George
How does it look?
i see one capacitor leaking on the top right
After messing with replacing the common capacitors twice and having the odometer quit again I gave up and took my board to a trusted electronics specialist. He tested every capacitor on the board. ALL electrolytic capacitors on the speedometer board were bad. Even if they don't look bad they can be dead or out of spec. If you know someone or a shop, save yourself the headache and have someone with real experience and professional equipment go over the boards. I wish i did the first time i had it out.
Sorry to hear that your repair attempts were unsuccessful. What repair company did you send the speedo board to? That may help others who find this type of repair beyond their grasp. How much was the repair? Were there other components that needed replacement besides the capacitors? This type of repair isn't for the faint of heart; unless you are familiar with soldering electronics then reach out to a buddy or repair shop who can handle this type of repair. I do have a general tips & tricks soldering thread that may encourage the DIY-er to attempt this repair. But it will not make anyone an expert, overnight or otherwise. For those who want to attempt this type of electronics repair, I recommend practicing on a junk board. A junk board such as an older printed circuit board that was struck by a power surge (i.e. lightening strike) or something that you intend to throw away. Once you gain some confidence with a practice board then attempt to replace the components on the speedo board.
I didn't send it out, I got lucky and found someone locally that specializes in repairing audio equipment for a local retailer. People with these skills are getting harder and harder to find. You may have to do some digging to find them. I was charged $75 for diagnosing and replacing. I discussed our speedometer issues with the man who did the work on my board and he was open to doing more in the future if others were interested.
I'm not trying to discourage anyone from attempting this on their own. With a quality solder iron, solder sucker, and solder remover its not a very difficult job to replace the main capacitors. In my case and I'm sure in many other member's cases, the problem is deeper than just two or three capacitors. For many members it may be more time and cost effective to send it out.
Hey Turk, I’m interested in sending mine out to get examined and repaied. If you could message me the guy if he’s willing to do I it, I’ll ship him mine.
After long a period of working fine, the odometer quit working again, and with the automatic transmission showing a flashing hold light on every trip. Eventually it popped a check engine light, indicating the input speed sensor to the transmission had a fault.
After replacing the input speed sensor, and reassembling the car, the test drive showed that the HOLD function was working properly, and the odometer was displaying the proper mileage, with only the odd behavior of resetting the trip mileage to zero every time the ignition was turned off.
Proper function lasted one day. The next day the HOLD light was flashing again and the odometer had only it's dim glow, with no digit display.
Detective work continues. I am wondering about whether there is a causal connection between the odometer and the auto transmission hold malfunction.
Cheers.
After long a period of working fine, the odometer quit working again, and with the automatic transmission showing a flashing hold light on every trip. Eventually it popped a check engine light, indicating the input speed sensor to the transmission had a fault.
After replacing the input speed sensor, and reassembling the car, the test drive showed that the HOLD function was working properly, and the odometer was displaying the proper mileage, with only the odd behavior of resetting the trip mileage to zero every time the ignition was turned off.
Proper function lasted one day. The next day the HOLD light was flashing again and the odometer had only it's dim glow, with no digit display.
Detective work continues. I am wondering about whether there is a causal connection between the odometer and the auto transmission hold malfunction.
Cheers.
Next step was replacing the transmission computer, according to an old service bulletin that had never been done, with the version B computer.
The transmission and odometer worked fine (did not check the trip odometer for zero reset on keyoff) for one day.
Next day the HOLD light was again flashing, odometer reading was not displaying, and got a check engine light again.
This one day magic of each fix is a mystery. Is there a Sherlock Holmes in the house?
Next step was replacing the transmission computer, according to an old service bulletin that had never been done, with the version B computer.
The transmission and odometer worked fine (did not check the trip odometer for zero reset on keyoff) for one day.
Next day the HOLD light was again flashing, odometer reading was not displaying, and got a check engine light again.
This one day magic of each fix is a mystery. Is there a Sherlock Holmes in the house?
Added info: check engine light code was 6, auto transmission code was 7.
I am curious if this odometer problem differs for a manual transmission versus an automatic transmission.
And, off topic a bit, some documentation suggests the Rx7 auto tranny is similar to some 929 tranny. Since parts are hard to find, does anybody know if some year of 929 parts are interchangeable with Rx7 auto tranny parts?
Sorry, I do not have the experience with auto transmissions and bad odometers. I know there is an additional circuit board for the HOLD & P-R-N-D-2-1 lights on the tach that use a separate connector, C1-01-05. However, there is one input to the speedo board that originate from the EC-AT ECU. Refer to the WDM (Wiring Diagram Manual), Diagram C-1a, Pg Z-42, upper right corner. Look for Input #50. This signal goes into the Speedometer at Pin 3E at Connector C1-01-03. This pin shares multiple signals - one from the Cruise Control, one from the ECU, and in your case - the EC-AT ECU. It goes back to Diagram H-1, Pg Z-72. Again, find Output #50. It originates in the EC-AT ECU at Connector H1-01, Pin 1I (as in I-beam or eye). It does affect the Vehicle Speedometer Sensor. Have you verified the wiring in between these places? Please make sure that nothing else shorts that wire out. You may also need to verify the wiring to Connector C1-01-03, Pins 3F & 4C. These 2 additional pins originate from the ECU.
Have you inspected the speedo board for any other bad capacitors since this problem emerged again? What capacitors have you replaced in the past? FWIW, it took me several attempts to get my speedo working properly *knock on wood*.
Additionally, you could check Mazmart (MAZMART - Your Wise Choice for Mazda Parts) for some harder-to-find parts. You may have to call them. Alternately, you could reach out to Fritz Flynn on the forum. Have you also spoken to Ray Crowe? Afterall, he is a miracle worker!
Speedometer works. Odometer does not display digits. Cruise control works. Hold light flashes and shows a 7 code, which seem to eventually prompt a check engine light with a 6 code, and eventually the check engine chirper beep. Code 7 says it is the speed sensor. The AT computer has been replaced with the rev B part.
A recheck of the wiring may be in order.
I have not done the capacitor check on the speedo board yet; was thinking the odometer was separate and less important; but if the two are related, maybe not?
Seem to have struck out looking for the part, so may try Fritz or Ray on the board next.
The automatics were a bit rare, so there may be less tribal wisdom on them.
Thank you for the additional input on your speedo. Does your cruise control works with a blank odo? Based upon my experience, once the odo blanks out the cruise control hunts for a set speed. That typically indicates a capacitor problem on the speedo board. Your example sounds very unique then. There is an additional thread to check out that may help you trace wires. It's here: FD Instrument Cluster Flex Print Components. There is a great schematic that provides a pin-out of Connector C1-01 Pin 3E to the Speedo flex print.
I'd be curios to see what you find with the speedometer board and wire measurements. If you have any questions or problems then don't hesitate to ask!
Negative miles on odometer after 2 years disconnected
Hey guys, greetings from Portugal.
I'm overhauling my fd for the last 2 years on my spate times and now when I connected the battery and turn it on my odometer is showing negative miles... does it happened to someone else?
Is it possible to replace the real miles again?
Thx
