Ohseyun

Team,
I just finished my non sequential setup but as soon as i start the engine i get the feeling of the engine running on only one rotor. I made sure i put back the spark plugs but damn to be honest i dont know in which order they go. Can someone tell me which spark plug wire goes to where or a diagram... sorry for the newbie question but where i live i cant really ask anybody else. Thanks.

ejmack1

they are labeled on the coils, t1 is the Top of the 1st Rotor(closest to front), L1 and L2 are lower plugs on the 1st(closest to front) and 2nd(closest to fire wall). t2 is the top of the 2nd rotor(closest to firewall)...

jspecracer7

Also, the 2 OUTER coils will be your trailing. The 1 INNER coil is for leadings. It doesn't matter what order you get these in since they fire at the same time...

Ohseyun

Thanks jspec and ejmack. I will see if i put mine in the right order. Hopefully that is the problem why my car seems to be running on one rotor.
Anyone know where the map sensor is?? Is it the little box that says boost sensor perhaps????

Nathan

MazdaMike

how long do u think it should take to chang the plugs, i wanna do it sometime soon but i dont know if it is something i need good time for i havent done it on my own yet and i have heard the lower 2 are a pain in the ***** to reach

-Mike

xstacy7

does it matter where the trailing and leading are placed (top-leading, bottom trailing?)

dpasseto

MazdaMike- I just changed my plugs about two weeks ago. Pretty easy job but your hands will take a beating in that compact engine bay. Just remove the intake elbow and with a light, you'll be able to see where your plugs are. Do one at a time. Using the right tools, it'll take you about an hour.

Xstacy7- Yes it does matter

jspecracer7

Well, if you reverse them, you'll be throwing your timing off enough to cause damage to your engine. DO NOT REVERSE THEM.

jspecracer7

Yes that's it!

maxcooper

L = Leading - install in the lower positions (closer to the ground)
T = Trailing - install in the top positions (closer to hood)

The left-most coil should connect to the trailing plug on the first rotor (T1). The first rotor is closest to the front of the car.

The middle coil has two wires and they fire at the same time (a "wasted spark" system like a Harley). Hook these to the two leading plugs (L1 and L2). There is an official way to connect them, but do whatever makes your plug wires sit best, as it is just one coil so they fire at exactly the same time.

The right-most coil is the T2 coil. Connect it to the trailing plug on the second rotor (nearest the firewall).

The coil arrangement looks like this:

  L1
T1  T2
  L2

The basic plug arrangement is this:

T1 T2
L1 L2

-Max

Ohseyun

Thanks maxcooper and jspecracer7!!
I learned something today!! The map sensor is the boost sensor!!

Nathan

mblachford

anyone have a good pic of this in the car?

Zoomspeed

You can change them form the bottom of the car, takes about 10-15 minutes if your slow like me. No need to remove anything.

spooledUP7

Did you ever fix it?

Ohseyun

10-15 minutes huh?? Those plugs looked impossible to get to unless i took off my Upper Intake Manifold!! Guess i forgot to look under the car...

Nathan

jspecracer7

It's fairly difficult when you have a/c and p/s. You'll have to get them from under the car.

Ohseyun

Sucks, i checked my plugs and wire and that wasnt the problem.. also checked my map sensor.. Weird, i step on the gas and my autometer air/fuel guage doesnt even light up. Its showing that its running very lean or doesnt show anything. I figured i should just stay sequential for now. I took off my UIM and while im at it just decided to do a hose job but i accidently broke off the plastic nipple of the solnoid.. how much do they cost??? Damn those hoses get so freaking hard they turn into hard plastic..

Ohseyun

by the way, anyone know how long it will take to perform the full non sequential set up???

Nathan

spooledUP7

It took me two weeks to get everything ready to go back in, but if you have the resources at hand you could do it in a day.
Have you got your car started?

Ohseyun

Well i think i have most of the resources at hand. SpooledUP7, did you follow that scuiridani website or something else? The directions on the website seem pretty hard to follow.
Yea, i got everything all started. Took off my UpperIntake Manifold,TCA, intercooler, and intake. all i see is the rats next but im having a hard time removing it.
Anyone know if i have to take off the turbo unit to do the non sequential?? I understand you have to take off the actuator but cant i just cap it???? comon guys help me out as my car is just sitting outside...

Nathan

R Xplicit

uhhh, plugs are not hard to change. 10 minutes. that is all. jack the front driver side up, and access them through the front a-arm in the suspension...do one at a time so that you do not confuse them...although it is hard to do....

unless you have installed a heated a/f guage, it will take time to show a reading on the autometer one. the factory sensor is a non-heated unit, and takes a few good minuted to warm and show a reading.

if you are missing a gasket or did not reconnect the hose on the map sensor to the uim in the right area, or even if the hose for it is crimped, you will experience this reaction from the car.....

louis

spooledUP7

If you are doing the full non-sequential, you will need to remove the turbos and the exhaust manifold. I read every non-sequential web site, and yes, there were times when it seemed like the authors were going a little left field, but overall easy to understand. The hardest part (and why I said if you had the resources) was removing the turbo control door, and finding someone with a enough smarts to braze a stainless steel plug over the turbo control manifold hole (I wasn't going to buy a $50 tap, and $50 die to plug the hole).
You also have to weld the precontrol door partially open. I skiped this step, and removed the wall between the precontrol and secondary turbo port and opted to keep the precontrol actuator for future spool up speed tests.
I had to replace the secondary turbo gasket - $68 - and I home rebuilt the turbos. I also replaced a crap load of gaskets and o-rings. This all took longer and more money than I wanted it to.
The crappy part is that my car also sound like it's running on one rotor, and it will not hold idle. I have been monitoring the thread in hope that you will have solved it so that I may get an idea of what to do when I get back under the hood. I have narrowed mune down to siezed injectors.

spooledUP7

I also forgot that you have to port your waste gate hole. This requires you to un-bolt the turbos from each other, and un-bolt the primary turbo from the manifold.

jspecracer7

I used Rikki's method, but I went a little further. I removed the rats nest and installed 850cc primary injectors in the same day....took me ~12 hours smoking and joking....I could have done it in about 6, but I had to do other things like watch TV, Post ***** and eat pizza.

The only thing I'm missing from being fully non-sequential is the TCA door. Other than that, I did everything else.

spooledUP7

I also forgot that you have to remove the charge control door. I removed it and fabricated a blockoff plate.