just did some work. big hesitation above 0psi
#1
just did some work. big hesitation above 0psi
hey guys i just replaced my rear oil injector, which required removing the UIM and fuel rails and solenoid rack (see my thread) and that seemed to go relatively smoothly, no big problems or anything.
well when i started the car, i noticed it was idling a little low, but no biggie. so i went for a test drive and noticed that whenever i stabbed the throttle or got above 0psi the car would just totally fall on its face... its like the secondary injectors just arent coming online at all. i checked the injector clips and they are all connected and secure, i checked the ECU codes to see if maybe it would throw a secondary injector code or some kind of other code that might do this, but it did not -no codes.
so i'm really lost and don't know where to look next. anyone have any ideas?
well when i started the car, i noticed it was idling a little low, but no biggie. so i went for a test drive and noticed that whenever i stabbed the throttle or got above 0psi the car would just totally fall on its face... its like the secondary injectors just arent coming online at all. i checked the injector clips and they are all connected and secure, i checked the ECU codes to see if maybe it would throw a secondary injector code or some kind of other code that might do this, but it did not -no codes.
so i'm really lost and don't know where to look next. anyone have any ideas?
#3
you mean check the actual sensor? or the vac signal going to the sensor.. the vac line is hooked up, and it would be extremely coincidental if the sensor decided to die at the same time that i decided to replace an oil injector. i'd assume it would also throw a CEL
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
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Either something's goofy with the wiring going to them, they're stuck closed somehow, or the injector drivers in the ECU are goofy.
What ECU and secondaries do you have?
Dale
What ECU and secondaries do you have?
Dale
#6
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A friend of mine had a similar issue with stuck secondaries...
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/driveability-issue-after-hose-job-no-codes-579588/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/driveability-issue-after-hose-job-no-codes-579588/
#7
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at 0 psi if your in limp mode you wont get past 0 psi very easily at all. instant fuel cut. can be a few cel's like OMP code will limp mode you amongst others. if there no cel on check for codes
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#8
Originally Posted by Sr20fd3st
at 0 psi if your in limp mode you wont get past 0 psi very easily at all. instant fuel cut. can be a few cel's like OMP code will limp mode you amongst others. if there no cel on check for codes
as i stated above, i have all ready checked the ECU for codes.
#10
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Disconnect the battery/reconnect and see if this helps.
I've had these cars go into limp type mode with no codes
Also make sure your knock sensor is connected
Good luck.
I've had these cars go into limp type mode with no codes
Also make sure your knock sensor is connected
Good luck.
#13
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o yea. check your double throttle solenoid and diaphram thing. make sure it's connected how it should be or it can block you off at 0psi also. pretty much closes when theres boost unless it's connected right or something i forget exactly but make sure it's connected
#14
I don't have double throttle plates. and i've done the full non-sequential mod.
this isn't an airflow problem; the secondary injectors are not firing and i'm trying to figure out why.
OH YEAH, and i unplugged/reconnected my battery about 5 times!!!!!!!!
this isn't an airflow problem; the secondary injectors are not firing and i'm trying to figure out why.
OH YEAH, and i unplugged/reconnected my battery about 5 times!!!!!!!!
#15
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lol hm...got a multimeter? i guess get a wiring diagram and find what wires coming from the ecu aregoing to those injectors and do some voltage/current tests. no clue really. if you need a full wiring diagram i can e-mail you one...
#16
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i dunno or maybe check the fuel pump relay maybe its not switching from 9v to 12 v...but i'd think just to get over 0 psi it wouldnt neccessarily need the extra fuel. have you tryed free revving it in neutral to like 8k rpm? trying o get it over 0psi like that?
#17
Okay,
its not like the car is struggling and almost getting over 0psi. it hits a wall at 0psi.
it also stumbles badly if i floor the throttle and try to rev it in neutral. BUT revs up perfectly smooth under 30% throttle or so...
it is exactly like not having any accelerator pumps on an aftermarket EMS
my turboII (haltech e6k) would do the exact same thing when it was cold if i turned off the throttle pumps.
its not like the car is struggling and almost getting over 0psi. it hits a wall at 0psi.
it also stumbles badly if i floor the throttle and try to rev it in neutral. BUT revs up perfectly smooth under 30% throttle or so...
it is exactly like not having any accelerator pumps on an aftermarket EMS
my turboII (haltech e6k) would do the exact same thing when it was cold if i turned off the throttle pumps.
#18
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Off hand I would guess there might be a short in your wiring if the secondaries arent firing. You were in there moving wires around after all...
You know I know little about it, but it certainly makes sense. Its not like having shorts in the oem wiring harness is unheard of in these cars. You could always do a quick test via continuity from the ecu to the injector plug.
You know I know little about it, but it certainly makes sense. Its not like having shorts in the oem wiring harness is unheard of in these cars. You could always do a quick test via continuity from the ecu to the injector plug.
#20
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"ZAP"the injectors!
Lol I know that sounds vauge.
Take a 12v source...your battery...
disconnect the terminals
get a good length of wire about 10 feet. cut it in half and strip enough wire off one side to wrap around your battery terminals and strip a little offer the other end and twist the wire together tight. Do this for both 5 ft lengths of wire.( one for each terminal +,-)
pull yur uim and expose the secondary injectors, and remove the clips
therewill be two metal "prongs" in there
With one wire in each hand, one connected to (-) and the other connected to (+) place one end on one of the "prongs"
now lean foward and listen while you quickly tap the other "prong" with the other wire. Don't hold it there.
You should here 2 clicks. the first is the sound of the injector opening the second is the sound of it closing. This is a usefull trick to unstick injectors.
Obviously you don't wanna touch the bare wires while there are connected to the battery.
If both injectors are opening and closing you can eliminate than as one of the problems and narrow the issue down to a wiring or ecu problem.
Hope this helps. give it a try and report back
Lol I know that sounds vauge.
Take a 12v source...your battery...
disconnect the terminals
get a good length of wire about 10 feet. cut it in half and strip enough wire off one side to wrap around your battery terminals and strip a little offer the other end and twist the wire together tight. Do this for both 5 ft lengths of wire.( one for each terminal +,-)
pull yur uim and expose the secondary injectors, and remove the clips
therewill be two metal "prongs" in there
With one wire in each hand, one connected to (-) and the other connected to (+) place one end on one of the "prongs"
now lean foward and listen while you quickly tap the other "prong" with the other wire. Don't hold it there.
You should here 2 clicks. the first is the sound of the injector opening the second is the sound of it closing. This is a usefull trick to unstick injectors.
Obviously you don't wanna touch the bare wires while there are connected to the battery.
If both injectors are opening and closing you can eliminate than as one of the problems and narrow the issue down to a wiring or ecu problem.
Hope this helps. give it a try and report back
#21
i actually tested the injectors earlier today and they functioned correctly. they clicked open and clicked shut like they should, so the injectors are fine. so its definitely a control issue.
i really need a list of conditions that the secondaries must see to open.
i really need a list of conditions that the secondaries must see to open.
#22
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
i actually tested the injectors earlier today and they functioned correctly. they clicked open and clicked shut like they should, so the injectors are fine. so its definitely a control issue.
i really need a list of conditions that the secondaries must see to open.
i really need a list of conditions that the secondaries must see to open.
#23
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well for what it's worth i had a similar problem and was found to be i hooked up the trailing coil plugs backwards when i reassembled everything.