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just did some work. big hesitation above 0psi

Old 02-25-07 | 04:15 PM
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just did some work. big hesitation above 0psi

hey guys i just replaced my rear oil injector, which required removing the UIM and fuel rails and solenoid rack (see my thread) and that seemed to go relatively smoothly, no big problems or anything.

well when i started the car, i noticed it was idling a little low, but no biggie. so i went for a test drive and noticed that whenever i stabbed the throttle or got above 0psi the car would just totally fall on its face... its like the secondary injectors just arent coming online at all. i checked the injector clips and they are all connected and secure, i checked the ECU codes to see if maybe it would throw a secondary injector code or some kind of other code that might do this, but it did not -no codes.
so i'm really lost and don't know where to look next. anyone have any ideas?
Old 02-25-07 | 05:26 PM
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Did you check the MAP sensor to make sure it's working properly? That can cause a lot of boost-related problems.
Old 02-25-07 | 06:11 PM
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you mean check the actual sensor? or the vac signal going to the sensor.. the vac line is hooked up, and it would be extremely coincidental if the sensor decided to die at the same time that i decided to replace an oil injector. i'd assume it would also throw a CEL
Old 02-26-07 | 09:25 PM
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update: i confirmed that my secondary injectors are not firing. i unplugged them and went for a drive and nothing changed... plugged them back in and reset the ECU and still no change...

what could be causing my secondaries to not fire?
Old 02-26-07 | 10:19 PM
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Either something's goofy with the wiring going to them, they're stuck closed somehow, or the injector drivers in the ECU are goofy.

What ECU and secondaries do you have?

Dale
Old 02-26-07 | 10:30 PM
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A friend of mine had a similar issue with stuck secondaries...

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/driveability-issue-after-hose-job-no-codes-579588/
Old 02-26-07 | 10:44 PM
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at 0 psi if your in limp mode you wont get past 0 psi very easily at all. instant fuel cut. can be a few cel's like OMP code will limp mode you amongst others. if there no cel on check for codes
Old 02-27-07 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Sr20fd3st
at 0 psi if your in limp mode you wont get past 0 psi very easily at all. instant fuel cut. can be a few cel's like OMP code will limp mode you amongst others. if there no cel on check for codes

as i stated above, i have all ready checked the ECU for codes.
Old 02-27-07 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
What ECU and secondaries do you have?

Dale


stock and stock. or do you want serial #'s or something?
Old 02-27-07 | 07:54 AM
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Disconnect the battery/reconnect and see if this helps.

I've had these cars go into limp type mode with no codes

Also make sure your knock sensor is connected

Good luck.
Old 02-27-07 | 01:04 PM
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Disconnect battery and hold down brake pedal for like 30 sec and that will get all energy out of the system.

Dustin
Old 02-27-07 | 02:18 PM
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i have disconnected/reconnected my battery and stepped on the brake pedal about 5 times guys.
would anyone else like to post that i should disconnect/reconnect the ECU?
Old 02-27-07 | 09:44 PM
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o yea. check your double throttle solenoid and diaphram thing. make sure it's connected how it should be or it can block you off at 0psi also. pretty much closes when theres boost unless it's connected right or something i forget exactly but make sure it's connected
Old 02-27-07 | 10:15 PM
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I don't have double throttle plates. and i've done the full non-sequential mod.
this isn't an airflow problem; the secondary injectors are not firing and i'm trying to figure out why.


OH YEAH, and i unplugged/reconnected my battery about 5 times!!!!!!!!
Old 02-27-07 | 10:24 PM
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lol hm...got a multimeter? i guess get a wiring diagram and find what wires coming from the ecu aregoing to those injectors and do some voltage/current tests. no clue really. if you need a full wiring diagram i can e-mail you one...
Old 02-27-07 | 10:28 PM
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i dunno or maybe check the fuel pump relay maybe its not switching from 9v to 12 v...but i'd think just to get over 0 psi it wouldnt neccessarily need the extra fuel. have you tryed free revving it in neutral to like 8k rpm? trying o get it over 0psi like that?
Old 02-27-07 | 11:04 PM
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Okay,

its not like the car is struggling and almost getting over 0psi. it hits a wall at 0psi.
it also stumbles badly if i floor the throttle and try to rev it in neutral. BUT revs up perfectly smooth under 30% throttle or so...

it is exactly like not having any accelerator pumps on an aftermarket EMS
my turboII (haltech e6k) would do the exact same thing when it was cold if i turned off the throttle pumps.
Old 02-28-07 | 04:18 PM
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Off hand I would guess there might be a short in your wiring if the secondaries arent firing. You were in there moving wires around after all...

You know I know little about it, but it certainly makes sense. Its not like having shorts in the oem wiring harness is unheard of in these cars. You could always do a quick test via continuity from the ecu to the injector plug.
Old 02-28-07 | 06:01 PM
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yeah thats the next step for tomorrow.
Old 02-28-07 | 06:42 PM
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"ZAP"the injectors!

Lol I know that sounds vauge.

Take a 12v source...your battery...

disconnect the terminals

get a good length of wire about 10 feet. cut it in half and strip enough wire off one side to wrap around your battery terminals and strip a little offer the other end and twist the wire together tight. Do this for both 5 ft lengths of wire.( one for each terminal +,-)

pull yur uim and expose the secondary injectors, and remove the clips

therewill be two metal "prongs" in there

With one wire in each hand, one connected to (-) and the other connected to (+) place one end on one of the "prongs"

now lean foward and listen while you quickly tap the other "prong" with the other wire. Don't hold it there.

You should here 2 clicks. the first is the sound of the injector opening the second is the sound of it closing. This is a usefull trick to unstick injectors.

Obviously you don't wanna touch the bare wires while there are connected to the battery.

If both injectors are opening and closing you can eliminate than as one of the problems and narrow the issue down to a wiring or ecu problem.

Hope this helps. give it a try and report back
Old 02-28-07 | 08:29 PM
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i actually tested the injectors earlier today and they functioned correctly. they clicked open and clicked shut like they should, so the injectors are fine. so its definitely a control issue.

i really need a list of conditions that the secondaries must see to open.
Old 02-28-07 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
i actually tested the injectors earlier today and they functioned correctly. they clicked open and clicked shut like they should, so the injectors are fine. so its definitely a control issue.

i really need a list of conditions that the secondaries must see to open.
Good!. If you tested with by-pass method, check the electronic connections that clip onto the Injectors. Make sure they're providing proper voltage.
Old 02-28-07 | 09:30 PM
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well for what it's worth i had a similar problem and was found to be i hooked up the trailing coil plugs backwards when i reassembled everything.
Old 02-28-07 | 09:39 PM
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^good point, You should check the spark from your ignition wires.
Old 02-28-07 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 73828793
well for what it's worth i had a similar problem and was found to be i hooked up the trailing coil plugs backwards when i reassembled everything.

i didnt touch the coils, so they're hooked up correctly.

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